Atacama Yellow 35is build thread

Argyll Andy said:
ronk said:
So a trip to the “Ring “ will be on the card next year?

No need, he lives in Scotland :wink: :driving:

That’s for sure too…God bless this wonderful country…long may it continue.. :driving: :driving: :driving:
 
B21 said:
ronk said:
So a trip to the “Ring “ will be on the card next year?

Ron several reasons why not..

Acute embarrassment when either some even older duffer goes pissing past me in his Audi touring car or a zitty young pup blows me away with a tweaked Seat …

Binning it then trying to explain to the breakdown and recovery guys that you were just pottering to the supermarket… :driving:

Realised a long time ago that it’s not what you’ve got it’s how good / bad / mad you are….I’m not that good / bad / mad .. :tumbleweed: :rofl:

Basically keep ego and ability in the correct ratio!
 
Primary focus has been to use the good weather windows to remove the big bank that was the only place a new garage could go..remove about 200 tons of earth,..then start with a new concrete raft…frame for the raft now in place..hoping to pour the 8” thick raft on Thursday
 

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Good to see you managed to hire a dump truck in the right colour. :lol:

Good luck with your building project. :thumbsup:
 
john-e89 said:
Never 200 tonnes....! Really..? :?

And it's concrete shuttering, not frame..... :poke:

Don't start on me you're as bad...... :poke: :poke: :wink:

70 cubic metres of earth…I see it’s closer to 100 tons…seemed like 200 tons after 4 days of non stop digging n dumping…,

I started with using the phrase ‘shuttering’ but after 5 days of working with my Ukrainian cousin / refugee who doesn’t speak English well I ended up using the expression ‘frame’ which `Google translation correctly interpreted…

I stand corrected… :headbang: :tumbleweed: :thumbsup: :rofl:
 
Mr Tidy said:
Good to see you managed to hire a dump truck in the right colour. :lol:

Good luck with your building project. :thumbsup:

Thank you …a 7m by 4m 200mm thick on steel mesh concrete pad should be a good start,,,big French drain and Gabions (if that’s a John E89 approved expression) to hold the cut out dirt walls..

Pondering as to what types of car lift..short height poles or scissor lift aka John E-89
 
B21 said:
Mr Tidy said:
Good to see you managed to hire a dump truck in the right colour. :lol:

Good luck with your building project. :thumbsup:

Thank you …a 7m by 4m 200mm thick on steel mesh concrete pad should be a good start,,,big French drain and Gabions (if that’s a John E89 approved expression) to hold the cut out dirt walls..

Pondering as to what types of car lift..short height poles or scissor lift aka John E-89
[/quot

Really does depend on what you're going to use the lift for Peter, If it's for just wheel changing to clean them and general servicing etc, personally I think a scissor lift is ideal, especially as width is a concern there.
 
B21 said:
Mr Tidy said:
Good to see you managed to hire a dump truck in the right colour. :lol:

Good luck with your building project. :thumbsup:

Thank you …a 7m by 4m 200mm thick on steel mesh concrete pad should be a good start,,,big French drain and Gabions (if that’s a John E89 approved expression) to hold the cut out dirt walls..

Pondering as to what types of car lift..short height poles or scissor lift aka John E-89

Are you building any masonry walls off of the slab? If so you will need a perimeter thickening to allow the concrete to span over any soft-spots.

You would also want to use something like an A252 mesh in the TOP of the 200thk slab, treaded in to some 35mm depth to both enable you to span over any soft spots but also to control shrinkage cracking as you're going past 6m in length and probably want to avoid a 'crack-inducer'.

While you're placing your reinforcement, if you know where the feet of your lift are going, it might be sensible to add a small patch of A252 in the bottom of the mesh (say 50mm above the blinding) to further control local cracking.

A french drain around the perimeter would be sensible (just behind your gabion baskets would be perfect). Just ensure that you have a decent foundation for the gabions as they have a tendency to lean over time unless you intend to install them at an angle.

If you have any questions just give me a shout.
Beeacon.
 
john-e89 said:
B21 said:
Mr Tidy said:
Good to see you managed to hire a dump truck in the right colour. :lol:

Good luck with your building project. :thumbsup:

Thank you …a 7m by 4m 200mm thick on steel mesh concrete pad should be a good start,,,big French drain and Gabions (if that’s a John E89 approved expression) to hold the cut out dirt walls..

Pondering as to what types of car lift..short height poles or scissor lift aka John E-89
[/quot

Really does depend on what you're going to use the lift for Peter, If it's for just wheel changing to clean them and general servicing etc, personally I think a scissor lift is ideal, especially as width is a concern there.

John-89...I think I'll go down the scissor jack route..thnx :thumbsup:
 
Beeacon said:
B21 said:
Mr Tidy said:
Good to see you managed to hire a dump truck in the right colour. :lol:

Good luck with your building project. :thumbsup:

Thank you …a 7m by 4m 200mm thick on steel mesh concrete pad should be a good start,,,big French drain and Gabions (if that’s a John E89 approved expression) to hold the cut out dirt walls..

Pondering as to what types of car lift..short height poles or scissor lift aka John E-89

Are you building any masonry walls off of the slab? If so you will need a perimeter thickening to allow the concrete to span over any soft-spots.

You would also want to use something like an A252 mesh in the TOP of the 200thk slab, treaded in to some 35mm depth to both enable you to span over any soft spots but also to control shrinkage cracking as you're going past 6m in length and probably want to avoid a 'crack-inducer'.

While you're placing your reinforcement, if you know where the feet of your lift are going, it might be sensible to add a small patch of A252 in the bottom of the mesh (say 50mm above the blinding) to further control local cracking.

A french drain around the perimeter would be sensible (just behind your gabion baskets would be perfect). Just ensure that you have a decent foundation for the gabions as they have a tendency to lean over time unless you intend to install them at an angle.

If you have any questions just give me a shout.
Beeacon.

Many thanks for the advice..I've got some mesh going in (A252 as it happens)..its 200mm of RC25 concrete on order..

I'm building back with 300mm by 300mm by 1000mm gabions filled with local stone off the slab..

Perforated 100mm drainage pipe going in then over filled with gravel, then gabions resting on that..back slanted and staggered to hold back then back filled..

I hope that works..?
 
Ready for concrete….
 

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Pad now poured…good result from the team..
 

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It appears that 6m by 4m makes a comfortable space to work on an E89..

Obviously you can do with less but as the pictures show there not a massive amount of spare space especially with other parts and tools…

Deep joy with even rudimentary tinkering on this concrete pad..you can where all those pesky screws drop now..rather than working on the gravel..

First time the Yellow Peril has been on a flat smooth surface to set up the suspension…

Into the Indy tomorrow to get the adjustable camber arms, camber plates and uprated steering parts fitted and the heights on the Ohlins adjusted to spec..plus oil and filter change and MOT…

New rear lights fitted with LED bulbs to replace the faulty ones..
 

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Back from a week at the garage..£895 lighter in the wallet..14 hours labour..

MOT done

Oil n filter change (Redline Ester Oil 5W-30, Mahle Filter supplied moi)

New front steering tie rod ends (Meyle HD supplied by moi)

Camber plates//mucho pain to fit (Individual Racing Parts supplied by moi)

Adjustable rear camber arms (Powerflex supplied by moi)

New front ARB links

Expensive 4 wheel track and set up

Previous alignment included in costs

Apologies for the poor tracking print out..

So relative to where we were..and using the 4 wheel aligments references..

The car is riding 10mm higher than the stock electronic damping settings ie as if it was on stock ie non MSport springs

Front camber increases from stock of about 0.5 to 2 degrees

Rear camber increases from stock 2.3 to nearly 3 degrees

Rear toe increases from almost nothing to 0.5 degrees

All the mods should make it more stable in both corners and higher speeds at the cost of potential uneven tyre wear..

In theory turn in should be heavier but with power steering that's not so obvious.

A 20 mile drive back was inconclusive but overall the car felt more stable, more 'solid', rode the bumps better and was just effective without being demonstrative..

The NC500 (NQ version) in 2 weeks should be a good test..
 

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I thought that 10mm higher than the stock 35is suspension was the same as M sport suspension height? :?
Rob
 
Smartbear said:
I thought that 10mm higher than the stock 35is suspension was the same as M sport suspension height? :?
Rob

Rob, I've heard various numbers stated for MSport and Adaptive..usually 10mm lower than stock for MSport and 10mm or 15mm for Adaptive..

Certainly my 35is was sagging very badly on its stock springs..

With 275/30 19 tyres the car is 6mm up on stock wheels n tyres so actually its only 4mm higher than whatever stock 35is was..

I'd take a bit of clearance up here.. :thumbsup:
 
Base and gabions done…recommendation…build on a flat piece of land..100 tons soil removed..25 tons of rock brought in, 18 tons of reinforced concrete, 21 days labouring..phew..
 

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