Atacama Yellow 35is build thread
- Thread starter B21
- Start date
Scottish Borders
Spent a lot of time trying to bottom out the misfire on cylinder 6.. including pulling the injector out..however it was in perfect condition..
Returning to the test track the car felt flat...an iDrive message came up showing limited power..subsequent run felt smooth but flat.
Diagnostics showed error code 30FF..a general warning that the boost asked for by the DME could not be even closely delivered.
Data logging showed 6 PSI instead of the asked for 18+ PSI
Lots and lots of headscratching...
This is when you feel on your own with this type of tuning.
This error code is usualy caused by either the vacuum system that controls the turbos (more or less the last of the pneumatically operatd turbos) having a fault and/or the boost system failing to create boost or losing it.
Devoid of practical ideas I ended up buying a vacuum test kit which looks abit like an Austin Powers penis enlargement kit...
It showed that one of the boost control solenoids had an issue.
So i bought two brand new Pierburg boost solenoids..with that went off to the Isle of Man..sadly boost warning came on..so had to limp around with probably only 200 bhp..
Reflecting on what is probably one of the most complex vacuum boost control systems known..one vacuum pump, two boost solenoids, two pneumatic turbo wastegates, and then each controller is cross linked to each other...I'm in a state of dispair..
Returning to the test track the car felt flat...an iDrive message came up showing limited power..subsequent run felt smooth but flat.
Diagnostics showed error code 30FF..a general warning that the boost asked for by the DME could not be even closely delivered.
Data logging showed 6 PSI instead of the asked for 18+ PSI
Lots and lots of headscratching...
This is when you feel on your own with this type of tuning.
This error code is usualy caused by either the vacuum system that controls the turbos (more or less the last of the pneumatically operatd turbos) having a fault and/or the boost system failing to create boost or losing it.
Devoid of practical ideas I ended up buying a vacuum test kit which looks abit like an Austin Powers penis enlargement kit...
It showed that one of the boost control solenoids had an issue.
So i bought two brand new Pierburg boost solenoids..with that went off to the Isle of Man..sadly boost warning came on..so had to limp around with probably only 200 bhp..
Reflecting on what is probably one of the most complex vacuum boost control systems known..one vacuum pump, two boost solenoids, two pneumatic turbo wastegates, and then each controller is cross linked to each other...I'm in a state of dispair..
Attachments
The subsequent vacuum test showed that there was now no vacuum leak but we still had the problem.
The suggestion was it was a boost leak but I couldn't hear one in the car and a visual inspection showed no obvious issues.
I took it to my tame dyno guys as they had solved other people's boost leaks quickly.
Unfortunately their test kit was broken and a quick inspection by them revealed no obvious issues.
In desperation I left it there for over a week hoping that they would get bored and solve the problem.
A week later with no joy I limped home.
I decided to buy a boost leak system which basically is a series of plugs, some with schrader valves and a pressure gauge and airline adapter.
I quickly plugged it in..it was remarkably easy..as soon as I applied pressure I could see the gauge fall and I could hear (in my quiet garage with no engine running a 'hissshh' sound..
And behold, the one connection which we could not see (the turbo 1 outlet pipe to turbo 2 outlet pipe connector) was hissing away, being hidden in a heat shield as its close to the exhaust manifold of turbo 1, we could not get to it.
I cut the heat shield away to reveal that the silicon hose that connects the two aluminim pipes had slipped off one end..it turned out the Indy I had used had not correctly fitted the hose..3/4 of the hose was on one side and only a 1/4 on the other side..and it had simply slipped off that end after a period of time.
I called my Indy (fully warranted work) to explain what happened and what their solution as going to be..I subsequently sent them pictures and video..I waited..I waited..I waited.,,
With another Z run coming up I knew that ehy would come back to me and say they could look at it, but not maybe for 4 or 5 weeks and along drive to them etc etc..
The issuen was that the hose had been clamped from underneath..so no access to the screw on the clamp clip was possible from above..the only was underneath and removing a lot of stuff to get there!
In the end I decided to dremel the clip from the top that was still firmly clamped on the number 2 turbo oulet pipe and then I could rotate the hose around and get the other still screwed on clamp off the hose.
Fortunately I happned to have a suitable clamp and then refitted the hose equally this time.
I got some alternative heat shield material from Amazon and some very nice stainless zip ties and zipped it up..whilst there I put some of the same material under the coolant header tanl feed hose that was resting on number 1 turbo outlet pipe which can get up to 300c temp!!
I'm still waiting for my Indy (fully warranted work) to come back to me with their proposed repair plan! 3 weeks on!
The suggestion was it was a boost leak but I couldn't hear one in the car and a visual inspection showed no obvious issues.
I took it to my tame dyno guys as they had solved other people's boost leaks quickly.
Unfortunately their test kit was broken and a quick inspection by them revealed no obvious issues.
In desperation I left it there for over a week hoping that they would get bored and solve the problem.
A week later with no joy I limped home.
I decided to buy a boost leak system which basically is a series of plugs, some with schrader valves and a pressure gauge and airline adapter.
I quickly plugged it in..it was remarkably easy..as soon as I applied pressure I could see the gauge fall and I could hear (in my quiet garage with no engine running a 'hissshh' sound..
And behold, the one connection which we could not see (the turbo 1 outlet pipe to turbo 2 outlet pipe connector) was hissing away, being hidden in a heat shield as its close to the exhaust manifold of turbo 1, we could not get to it.
I cut the heat shield away to reveal that the silicon hose that connects the two aluminim pipes had slipped off one end..it turned out the Indy I had used had not correctly fitted the hose..3/4 of the hose was on one side and only a 1/4 on the other side..and it had simply slipped off that end after a period of time.
I called my Indy (fully warranted work) to explain what happened and what their solution as going to be..I subsequently sent them pictures and video..I waited..I waited..I waited.,,
With another Z run coming up I knew that ehy would come back to me and say they could look at it, but not maybe for 4 or 5 weeks and along drive to them etc etc..
The issuen was that the hose had been clamped from underneath..so no access to the screw on the clamp clip was possible from above..the only was underneath and removing a lot of stuff to get there!
In the end I decided to dremel the clip from the top that was still firmly clamped on the number 2 turbo oulet pipe and then I could rotate the hose around and get the other still screwed on clamp off the hose.
Fortunately I happned to have a suitable clamp and then refitted the hose equally this time.
I got some alternative heat shield material from Amazon and some very nice stainless zip ties and zipped it up..whilst there I put some of the same material under the coolant header tanl feed hose that was resting on number 1 turbo outlet pipe which can get up to 300c temp!!
I'm still waiting for my Indy (fully warranted work) to come back to me with their proposed repair plan! 3 weeks on!
Attachments
I can't wait for the movie... 
So, the Vargas reinforced silicone coupler.. was that a part of the aluminum charge pipe kit or a workaround by your indy?
I noticed that the left side clamp on the coupler is of lesser quality than the right -- it's probably worth using a higher quality clamp there, especially for the trouble to get to it.
Will you have them source and replace the heatshield, or are you satisfied with your Amazon special?
So, the Vargas reinforced silicone coupler.. was that a part of the aluminum charge pipe kit or a workaround by your indy?
I noticed that the left side clamp on the coupler is of lesser quality than the right -- it's probably worth using a higher quality clamp there, especially for the trouble to get to it.
Will you have them source and replace the heatshield, or are you satisfied with your Amazon special?
Christopher72 said:I can't wait for the movie...
So, the Vargas reinforced silicone coupler.. was that a part of the aluminum charge pipe kit or a workaround by your indy?
I noticed that the left side clamp on the coupler is of lesser quality than the right -- it's probably worth using a higher quality clamp there, especially for the trouble to get to it.
Will you have them source and replace the heatshield, or are you satisfied with your Amazon special?
The larger clamp was my temporary one I happened to have around…I’ve ordered some Murray turbo constant seal clamps but they are lost in the post..
The Amazon heat shield material although much thinner I was able to wrap such as there were two layers on the hot side…I subsequently did a second complete wrap same logic so the silicon tube has 4 layers of heat shield on the hot side..a thousand miles later no sign of distress on the material..
Yes the silicon hose is VTT’s connection…at least now they use alloy pipes for most of it..in the past most of it was silicon tubing…
Very nice -- I hadn't seen the Murray previously.B21 said:
My perspective on worm drive clamps significantly changed after I watched this comparison https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtMPq2lG-8U Warning, you may need a double espresso to keep up with it. 
If I have to use a worm drive, I have a kit of Norma clamps... but I'm much more aware that they are a risk for a leak in engine bays unless you get one with a spring aspect to maintain the squeeze through significant temperature changes. I try to use squeeze (spring) clips when possible - especially when clamping to a plastic pipe. A higher-end constant torque clamp like the Murray or others like it should be the norm for these applications. You'd think that the turbo kitters like VTT would add them in to ensure that they get fewer callbacks on customer issues.
If I have to use a worm drive, I have a kit of Norma clamps... but I'm much more aware that they are a risk for a leak in engine bays unless you get one with a spring aspect to maintain the squeeze through significant temperature changes. I try to use squeeze (spring) clips when possible - especially when clamping to a plastic pipe. A higher-end constant torque clamp like the Murray or others like it should be the norm for these applications. You'd think that the turbo kitters like VTT would add them in to ensure that they get fewer callbacks on customer issues.
Actually the Farm video is flawed as it uses an oversized clamp that needs to be excessively screwed down..I can't remember there was a premium clamp in there but they twisted it so tight that due to its construction it wnet oval and lost clamping pressure..so in this case I think The Farm didn't dod a great job...but...emotionally given all the pain and expense I do want to use the best clamps I can..
I have some of these too!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08LB67R5B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have some of these too!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08LB67R5B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My insurance is up for renewal, and my broker Sterling was pushing agreed value insurance.
I always assumed it would be prohibitively expensive..in my case an extra £75 on a £300 policy for a heavily modified car.
As part of the agreed value policy they said they needed a list of all work done on the car.
When I asked 'what's all work?' they stated 'anything that was not mandated by maintenance or servicing and replaced on a like for like basis'
So last Sunday was a rainy afternoon and I went through what
I've done to the 35is since I bought it just under 2 years ago..
Here's my list..what's yours look like?
1 Zito 935s 235/40 18 265/35 18 Michelin PS4S
2 Front HALO angel eyes LED upgrade
3 Remove silver slats from lower grills
4 Reverse colours on valance and rear diffuser
5 Gloss black Kidney Grills
6 Inlet port walnut blast
7 Mahle air filter
8 Dyno check 347 BHP 505Nm
9 2022 Map upgrade
10 Bluetooth s/w upgrade
11 MHD V9 stage 1+ 390 bhp 560 nm
12 xHP stage 1.2
13 NGK coils
14 NGK 1 stage colder plugs
15 Uprated oil thermostat
16 Redline ester based engine oil and Mahle filter
17 6 pot Brembo BBK front grooved /drilled
18 Uprated anti roll bars front and rear
19 Replacement parking brake motor
20 Engine bay strut tower brace
21 Zimmerman drilled / vented rear discs
22 Colour matched calipers Phoenix Gold
23 Catless down pipes
24 437M alloys with Michelin PS4s
25 Limited Slip Diff
26 MHD V10 stage 2+ 408 BHP 655Nm
27 xHP stage 1.3
28 Uprated HID bulbs
29 Revo boot rack
30 DCT aluminium deep sump
31 DCT oil and filter changes
32 Aluminium oil filter cap
33 Uprated suspension
34 Removal Adaptive ECU plus coding
35 Monoball bearing for front suspension arms
36 Evo 1 Intercooler
37 Z4 and 35is badges deleted
38 M3 E90 RTAB upgrade
39 Gloss black roll over hoops
40 437Ms refurbished in gloss black
41 E90 M3 front Suspension arms
42 Colour matched rear carbon fibre boot spoiler
43 Centre speaker upgrade
44 Door card speaker upgrade and door tweeter
45 Rear shoulder speaker upgrade
46 Rear centre speaker upgrade
47 Rear brake lights LED upgrade
48 Rear reversing lights LED upgrade
49 Pierburg alloy water pump + Mahle Thermostat
50 LCI side repeaters in gloss back
51 Retrimmed and flat bottom steering wheel
52 Later flappy paddles one sided action
53 5mm front wheel spacers
54 Arc 8 19" 8.5j 35 and 9.5J 33
55 Michelin PS4s fitted to Apex arc 8 in satin black
56 Arc 8 refinished in gloss black
57 245/35 19 275/30 19 Sports Contact 7
58 Meyle HD toe rods
59 Index 12 injectors
60 Stage 2+ DME re-map
61 Stage 2 TCU re-map
62 Stage 1 colder plugs
63 B58 Ignition coil kit
64 Uprated steering tie rods
65 Later all metal water pump
66 Adjustable toe and camber plates
67 Adjustable rear camber arms
68 Alignment done
69 New rear boot struts fitted
70 Garmin 57 and Mini 2 dash cams fitted
71 Fox centre and rear exhaust system
72 TTE 500 Hybrid Turbo Upgrade
73 Uprated turbo outflow pipes
74 Uprated turbo inlet pipes
75 Uprated charge pipe
76 Uprated 450 lph LPFP
77 Wagner EVO 3 FMIC
78 Forge diverter valves
79 Uprated GUIBO
80 Uprated centre shaft bearing
81 Tuning for new hybrids
82 Pipercoss panel filter
83 Dyno test day 502 BHP 683Nm
84 Footwell woofer upgrade
85 New boost controller solenoids
86 Carplay adapter
87 Carbon fibre wrapped interior trim pieces
88 Retrimmed gear gaiter
89 Replaced snap in tray with general tray
90 New set of 437Ms
91 437m refurbished and finished in graphite grey
92 235/35 275/30 SC7s fitted to 437m
93 Brembo HP front pads
94 Rear adjustable toe in plates
95 Uprated RTAB and rear linkage bushes
96 New aligment less rear camber better toe
97 LED lights for map reading, boot, puddles
98 New G29 Z4 and M50i badges
99 Refitted turbo oulet pipe silicon hose + heat shield
100 Mr.5 Inlet modification
I always assumed it would be prohibitively expensive..in my case an extra £75 on a £300 policy for a heavily modified car.
As part of the agreed value policy they said they needed a list of all work done on the car.
When I asked 'what's all work?' they stated 'anything that was not mandated by maintenance or servicing and replaced on a like for like basis'
So last Sunday was a rainy afternoon and I went through what
I've done to the 35is since I bought it just under 2 years ago..
Here's my list..what's yours look like?
1 Zito 935s 235/40 18 265/35 18 Michelin PS4S
2 Front HALO angel eyes LED upgrade
3 Remove silver slats from lower grills
4 Reverse colours on valance and rear diffuser
5 Gloss black Kidney Grills
6 Inlet port walnut blast
7 Mahle air filter
8 Dyno check 347 BHP 505Nm
9 2022 Map upgrade
10 Bluetooth s/w upgrade
11 MHD V9 stage 1+ 390 bhp 560 nm
12 xHP stage 1.2
13 NGK coils
14 NGK 1 stage colder plugs
15 Uprated oil thermostat
16 Redline ester based engine oil and Mahle filter
17 6 pot Brembo BBK front grooved /drilled
18 Uprated anti roll bars front and rear
19 Replacement parking brake motor
20 Engine bay strut tower brace
21 Zimmerman drilled / vented rear discs
22 Colour matched calipers Phoenix Gold
23 Catless down pipes
24 437M alloys with Michelin PS4s
25 Limited Slip Diff
26 MHD V10 stage 2+ 408 BHP 655Nm
27 xHP stage 1.3
28 Uprated HID bulbs
29 Revo boot rack
30 DCT aluminium deep sump
31 DCT oil and filter changes
32 Aluminium oil filter cap
33 Uprated suspension
34 Removal Adaptive ECU plus coding
35 Monoball bearing for front suspension arms
36 Evo 1 Intercooler
37 Z4 and 35is badges deleted
38 M3 E90 RTAB upgrade
39 Gloss black roll over hoops
40 437Ms refurbished in gloss black
41 E90 M3 front Suspension arms
42 Colour matched rear carbon fibre boot spoiler
43 Centre speaker upgrade
44 Door card speaker upgrade and door tweeter
45 Rear shoulder speaker upgrade
46 Rear centre speaker upgrade
47 Rear brake lights LED upgrade
48 Rear reversing lights LED upgrade
49 Pierburg alloy water pump + Mahle Thermostat
50 LCI side repeaters in gloss back
51 Retrimmed and flat bottom steering wheel
52 Later flappy paddles one sided action
53 5mm front wheel spacers
54 Arc 8 19" 8.5j 35 and 9.5J 33
55 Michelin PS4s fitted to Apex arc 8 in satin black
56 Arc 8 refinished in gloss black
57 245/35 19 275/30 19 Sports Contact 7
58 Meyle HD toe rods
59 Index 12 injectors
60 Stage 2+ DME re-map
61 Stage 2 TCU re-map
62 Stage 1 colder plugs
63 B58 Ignition coil kit
64 Uprated steering tie rods
65 Later all metal water pump
66 Adjustable toe and camber plates
67 Adjustable rear camber arms
68 Alignment done
69 New rear boot struts fitted
70 Garmin 57 and Mini 2 dash cams fitted
71 Fox centre and rear exhaust system
72 TTE 500 Hybrid Turbo Upgrade
73 Uprated turbo outflow pipes
74 Uprated turbo inlet pipes
75 Uprated charge pipe
76 Uprated 450 lph LPFP
77 Wagner EVO 3 FMIC
78 Forge diverter valves
79 Uprated GUIBO
80 Uprated centre shaft bearing
81 Tuning for new hybrids
82 Pipercoss panel filter
83 Dyno test day 502 BHP 683Nm
84 Footwell woofer upgrade
85 New boost controller solenoids
86 Carplay adapter
87 Carbon fibre wrapped interior trim pieces
88 Retrimmed gear gaiter
89 Replaced snap in tray with general tray
90 New set of 437Ms
91 437m refurbished and finished in graphite grey
92 235/35 275/30 SC7s fitted to 437m
93 Brembo HP front pads
94 Rear adjustable toe in plates
95 Uprated RTAB and rear linkage bushes
96 New aligment less rear camber better toe
97 LED lights for map reading, boot, puddles
98 New G29 Z4 and M50i badges
99 Refitted turbo oulet pipe silicon hose + heat shield
100 Mr.5 Inlet modification
A few words and pictures on my version of what is known as the Mr.5 airbox modification for N54 engines as in the 35i/35is.
A bit of history for those not au fait with this matter…Mr.5 was a member of a US based E90 forum who proposed an alternative option for addressing the issue of limited airflow when a N54 engine is tuned.
Many folks went down the route of two dual cone intakes, each one sitting on the end of the disconnected turbo pipe inkers after the stock airbox was removed. The counter arguments to this are the much poorer filtration of the DCIs and the induction noise they create…In addition there were arguments about heat fade caused by sucking in hot air in the engine bay.
Mr.5 suggested retaining the stock airbox and filter but adding an additional air inlet post filters to the interior plenum chamber. Subsequently he and many others came up with various interpretations of this design.
Here’s my version made out of 50mm waste pipe fittings plus a Pipercross Viper aftermarket generic inlet / filter kit.
I’ve done a blended intake on the inside of the plenum chamber, most designs I’ve seen just terminate in a hole in the side of the plenum chamber.
In the end the flexible pipe and lovely aluminium inlet were redundant as there was not enough space to add those..
This is fitted to a RHD 35is..not sure if it would work on a LHD.
Off to the dyno next week to see what impacts it has.
Previous experiments on E89 air boxes showed a small improvement in power and torque ..on a N20..4 BHP in 300…on a N54 6 BHP in 400 and 10 BHP in 500 by removing the airbox lid and / or filter parts..never tried DCIs but the dyno guys rated the impact broadly similar to an unrestricted airbox ..ie no lid ..
One of the great unknowns with all these things is not just how restricted or not certain parts of the system are but how these things interact as a function of rpm and load..an area known as fluid dynamics..for mere mortals the only way is to suck it and see..I’ll report back on the dyno results…
A bit of history for those not au fait with this matter…Mr.5 was a member of a US based E90 forum who proposed an alternative option for addressing the issue of limited airflow when a N54 engine is tuned.
Many folks went down the route of two dual cone intakes, each one sitting on the end of the disconnected turbo pipe inkers after the stock airbox was removed. The counter arguments to this are the much poorer filtration of the DCIs and the induction noise they create…In addition there were arguments about heat fade caused by sucking in hot air in the engine bay.
Mr.5 suggested retaining the stock airbox and filter but adding an additional air inlet post filters to the interior plenum chamber. Subsequently he and many others came up with various interpretations of this design.
Here’s my version made out of 50mm waste pipe fittings plus a Pipercross Viper aftermarket generic inlet / filter kit.
I’ve done a blended intake on the inside of the plenum chamber, most designs I’ve seen just terminate in a hole in the side of the plenum chamber.
In the end the flexible pipe and lovely aluminium inlet were redundant as there was not enough space to add those..
This is fitted to a RHD 35is..not sure if it would work on a LHD.
Off to the dyno next week to see what impacts it has.
Previous experiments on E89 air boxes showed a small improvement in power and torque ..on a N20..4 BHP in 300…on a N54 6 BHP in 400 and 10 BHP in 500 by removing the airbox lid and / or filter parts..never tried DCIs but the dyno guys rated the impact broadly similar to an unrestricted airbox ..ie no lid ..
One of the great unknowns with all these things is not just how restricted or not certain parts of the system are but how these things interact as a function of rpm and load..an area known as fluid dynamics..for mere mortals the only way is to suck it and see..I’ll report back on the dyno results…
Attachments
So an interesting day on the dyno…
For those who can’t cope with a detailed dissertation here’s the distillation of over 25 dyno runs over 2 years…
The stock airbox and paper filter are good for about 400bhp…there is a very small, less than 10 BHP penalty for the airbox and filter together..I’ve not tested DCIs but haven’t seen any evidence to suggest they would do any better.
However, once you go past 400 BHP the stock filter first then the stock airbox design progressively inhibits the power.
At around 500 BHP the paper filter creates a 29 BHP penalty compared to the stock airbox with no filter in it..a foam filter has a 23 BHP penalty.
This shows that any filter is getting to the edge.
It turns out even the empty airbox with no filter is now restricting the engine..
With a Mr.5 auxiliary inlet ,with blended airflow into the inner plenum with exactly the same tune the stock airbox with paper filter generates 25 BHP more than the otherwise stock airbox with no filter ie around 526 BHP
Or put it another way for the same tune you get nearly 60 bhp more if your tune is good enough for a Mr.5 Mod
For those who can’t cope with a detailed dissertation here’s the distillation of over 25 dyno runs over 2 years…
The stock airbox and paper filter are good for about 400bhp…there is a very small, less than 10 BHP penalty for the airbox and filter together..I’ve not tested DCIs but haven’t seen any evidence to suggest they would do any better.
However, once you go past 400 BHP the stock filter first then the stock airbox design progressively inhibits the power.
At around 500 BHP the paper filter creates a 29 BHP penalty compared to the stock airbox with no filter in it..a foam filter has a 23 BHP penalty.
This shows that any filter is getting to the edge.
It turns out even the empty airbox with no filter is now restricting the engine..
With a Mr.5 auxiliary inlet ,with blended airflow into the inner plenum with exactly the same tune the stock airbox with paper filter generates 25 BHP more than the otherwise stock airbox with no filter ie around 526 BHP
Or put it another way for the same tune you get nearly 60 bhp more if your tune is good enough for a Mr.5 Mod
Attachments
So, for now our final dyno day’s results..after various issues with a persistent cylinder 6 misfire caused by what we believe is erroneous factors and the boost leak caused by the Indy not fitting the inter connector silicon hose between the two turbo outer pipes..here we are..
With our Mr.5 inlet mod and the final tune V13+ aka ‘spicy’ which is 21.5 psi boost tapering to 20.5 psi here we go…546 BHP and 738Nm
Just about spot on compared to TTE the turbo people’s demonstrated N54 test..we did it on less boost ..so pretty good
Approx 50% of the increase over the max of 502 on v6 with no air filter is due to the Mr.5 inlet mod and the rest with many iterations of tuning covering boost, ignition timing and VANOS settings..this number is with a stock Mahle filter in the main box and a Pipercross Lotus inspired foam cone c/f filter…enjoy!
With our Mr.5 inlet mod and the final tune V13+ aka ‘spicy’ which is 21.5 psi boost tapering to 20.5 psi here we go…546 BHP and 738Nm
Just about spot on compared to TTE the turbo people’s demonstrated N54 test..we did it on less boost ..so pretty good
Approx 50% of the increase over the max of 502 on v6 with no air filter is due to the Mr.5 inlet mod and the rest with many iterations of tuning covering boost, ignition timing and VANOS settings..this number is with a stock Mahle filter in the main box and a Pipercross Lotus inspired foam cone c/f filter…enjoy!
Attachments
Following on from some queries as to the accuracy and repeatablility of dyno runs I spent the next rainy day charting the life and times of the developments on my N20 and N54 powered E89s.
So from 185 to 546 BHP on the same chassis..not to bad really...and 309 nm to 738nm..
Obviously two engines but only one design of chassis.
So from 185 to 546 BHP on the same chassis..not to bad really...and 309 nm to 738nm..
Obviously two engines but only one design of chassis.
Attachments
So here are some graphs to show how handling mods and power affect perceived behaviour in certain conditions.
The track versions are works of fiction as I've not tracked the cars, but criteria for track use are diferent to road use.
The road use has been verifed over 7 tears and 50k+ miles though on Scotland's best test tracks..
The track versions are works of fiction as I've not tracked the cars, but criteria for track use are diferent to road use.
The road use has been verifed over 7 tears and 50k+ miles though on Scotland's best test tracks..
Attachments
Impressive dedication to the pursuit of power
