Atacama Yellow 35is build thread
- Thread starter B21
- Start date
Scottish Borders
Miyli said:It's great that you got the updated turbos, good power
went to sell mine and got a small engine g29 instead
Yes a B58 engine has more potential…but I just don’t like the looks of the G29..so that’s a no for me..
Here are the integrated graphs for stock, best of MHD V10 and the TTE500 turbos do far..
Attachments
Coulda just stuck with silver and used cheaper brake pads... graphite color would just be a matter of time then.... :lol:
Looks nice!
Looks nice!
So as we passed 500 BHP we’ve encountered a persistent misfire on cylinder no 6 around 6k as we do the tuning runs…
Everywhere else the engine is close to perfection..smoother in the low register..spins like a turbine in the mid range and lights up like a rocket at the top end..
Usual suspects have been addressed typical with tuning a N54..
We transposed coil no 6 with 1..swapped out stock Bosch 3 points plug for NGK stage 1 colder, narrowed gap from 30 thou to 22 thou…no change..
My tuner was sure that maybe injector no 6 was problematic as he says ‘it’s the most difficult one to get right’..
So yesterday with much cursing I removed no 6 injector and then had to battle to ensure the new Teflon seal got seated well enough to resear the injector..
As can be sensed the injector was in perfect condition..
My tuners comments were..
My suspicion is that the engine is picking up noise from somewhere and interpreting it as knock. We can confirm that with these channels. Finding the cause of the noise is more tricky.
The DMF is one possibility but replacing that is expensive and has no guarantee of fixing anything at all.
It's common on engines with aftermarket pistons as this changes the noise characteristics but it's also seen often with people that use HPFP overdrive kits. It can also be something as simple as a heatshield rattling against the engine or the exhaust contacting the subframe and passing vibrations up to the block.
So my tuner has given me an extra ‘fix’ for MHD to do extended logging…
On the forums there have been quite a few cylinder no 6 issues with tuned N54s..the dual mass flywheel has been found to be a common issue..hence the debate,,,
I’m looking at the M series S55 DMF as it’s rated for 500 BHP in parallel …
They are the 3 stages of knock detection for cylinder 6. That should tell us exactly what the DME is picking up that causes the fuel cut and misfire.
Everywhere else the engine is close to perfection..smoother in the low register..spins like a turbine in the mid range and lights up like a rocket at the top end..
Usual suspects have been addressed typical with tuning a N54..
We transposed coil no 6 with 1..swapped out stock Bosch 3 points plug for NGK stage 1 colder, narrowed gap from 30 thou to 22 thou…no change..
My tuner was sure that maybe injector no 6 was problematic as he says ‘it’s the most difficult one to get right’..
So yesterday with much cursing I removed no 6 injector and then had to battle to ensure the new Teflon seal got seated well enough to resear the injector..
As can be sensed the injector was in perfect condition..
My tuners comments were..
My suspicion is that the engine is picking up noise from somewhere and interpreting it as knock. We can confirm that with these channels. Finding the cause of the noise is more tricky.
The DMF is one possibility but replacing that is expensive and has no guarantee of fixing anything at all.
It's common on engines with aftermarket pistons as this changes the noise characteristics but it's also seen often with people that use HPFP overdrive kits. It can also be something as simple as a heatshield rattling against the engine or the exhaust contacting the subframe and passing vibrations up to the block.
So my tuner has given me an extra ‘fix’ for MHD to do extended logging…
On the forums there have been quite a few cylinder no 6 issues with tuned N54s..the dual mass flywheel has been found to be a common issue..hence the debate,,,
I’m looking at the M series S55 DMF as it’s rated for 500 BHP in parallel …
They are the 3 stages of knock detection for cylinder 6. That should tell us exactly what the DME is picking up that causes the fuel cut and misfire.
Attachments
So the brake pad warning came on..when I fitted the 6 pot Brembo calipers I thought I recalled not fitting a brake pad sensor…turns out I was wrong…pads worn but I guess the brake pad sensor design buys you time prior to actually running out of pads…
Textar OE pads fitted and lasted about 20k miles..this time it’s Brembo HP pads..will see how they do…suspect will need new discs at the next pad change…
Why oh why BMW has so so many connectors and their various locking mechanisms…45 minutes to unlock the pad sensor cable..gave up for today…hopefully finish tomorrow for a potter around the Borders on Sunday..
Textar OE pads fitted and lasted about 20k miles..this time it’s Brembo HP pads..will see how they do…suspect will need new discs at the next pad change…
Why oh why BMW has so so many connectors and their various locking mechanisms…45 minutes to unlock the pad sensor cable..gave up for today…hopefully finish tomorrow for a potter around the Borders on Sunday..
Attachments
B21 said:
So when, and if...which hopefully will happen, you get this car running correctly, do you have any idea how long it will run for until it goes out of tune, or will it go out...? I'd imagine it will be on a knife edge all the time being in such a high state of tune despite the bigger blowers and supporting mods, 500bhp is a lot, especially if you're booting it, although I can't really imagine where you can use that sort of shove for any more than the odd brief spurt on a very suitable day, so perhaps that will keep some longevity if I'm right, which I'm probably not, but anyway, what's your take on it staying in tune...?
Genuine interested question, personally I can't think of a much less suitable car to take to 500+, BUT, that's just me, were all different, and I'm all for following ones dreams so I'm simply curious as to what the up keep of such an engine will be. Obvs the bottom end will be fine, it's the rest I'm thinking will need constant fettling, which may or not be an issue.
john-e89 said:B21 said:
So when, and if...which hopefully will happen, you get this car running correctly, do you have any idea how long it will run for until it goes out of tune, or will it go out...? I'd imagine it will be on a knife edge all the time being in such a high state of tune despite the bigger blowers and supporting mods, 500bhp is a lot, especially if you're booting it, although I can't really imagine where you can use that sort of shove for any more than the odd brief spurt on a very suitable day, so perhaps that will keep some longevity if I'm right, which I'm probably not, but anyway, what's your take on it staying in tune...?
Genuine interested question, personally I can't think of a much less suitable car to take to 500+, BUT, that's just me, were all different, and I'm all for following ones dreams so I'm simply curious as to what the up keep of such an engine will be. Obvs the bottom end will be fine, it's the rest I'm thinking will need constant fettling, which may or not be an issue.
This is an interesting point. When I was speaking to Birds deciding which version Zed to buy, they told me that in their experience highly tuned up cars like those with the N54 or the F80 M4 never run right and there is always some issue. Whether this is right or wrong I don't know but it's interesting to see how this goes.
john-e89 said:B21 said:
So when, and if...which hopefully will happen, you get this car running correctly, do you have any idea how long it will run for until it goes out of tune, or will it go out...? I'd imagine it will be on a knife edge all the time being in such a high state of tune despite the bigger blowers and supporting mods, 500bhp is a lot, especially if you're booting it, although I can't really imagine where you can use that sort of shove for any more than the odd brief spurt on a very suitable day, so perhaps that will keep some longevity if I'm right, which I'm probably not, but anyway, what's your take on it staying in tune...?
Genuine interested question, personally I can't think of a much less suitable car to take to 500+, BUT, that's just me, were all different, and I'm all for following ones dreams so I'm simply curious as to what the up keep of such an engine will be. Obvs the bottom end will be fine, it's the rest I'm thinking will need constant fettling, which may or not be an issue.
I think there’s two separate issues that you touch on..
For sure when you bring a bag of bits from several manufacturers together there will be integration issues…how well you resolve them is a mixture of resolve, skill and the bits you chose to use…
From the world of tuning N54 engines I’m following a well trodden path..most of the parts I’ve sourced are in the premium quality account..the power levels are at the bottom end of where others have trodden…obviously with some parts that are now over 10 years old and 70k miles so wear and tear has had some effect on some components which you have to accept may need addressing..
So when I started on the FBO (full bottom on)..I chose the most modest of power ambitions within the spectrum of N54 tuning..allied to as much as possible improved products to avoid any restrictions….
Coming to the maintainability of such a set up..the extra power will consume plugs quicker..that’s about it..rest of the schedule is what you determine and how often, how hard you drive the car..so I’ll change the oil every 5k-8k..I use the best oil that money can buy already..
Weight and power takes its toll on the chassis but I’ve been steadily replacing the cheap OE parts with better parts.
In terms of the tune ‘going off’ the engine is running at around 50% to 75% of its potential with this hardware, so it’s not really being pushed, the very clever DME manages all the variables with ease and as we shown on the logging graphs the state of tune is very comfortable.
To address the final point, I chose an E89 in yellow cause it’s in my eyes a very pretty car..end off..
An Audi Quattro would have been a much better starting point, having had 5 of them I know it would outrun out handle the E89..but that’s not the point..
I get great pleasure and intellectual stimulation from these activities..I realise it’s not for everyone…I’m just sharing my journey!
Having done a major assault on the front end of the car with E90 M3 steering linkages, monoball top bearings, Meyle HD steering tie rods, adjustable camber plates, Ohlins coilovers..I was left feeling ‘loose’ in comparison at the other end…
I’d fitted adjustable camber arms but because the way the aged rear trailing arm system works as you adjust toe it interacts with camber.
However the rear trailing arm mounting plates have very little adjustment room and as toe in was a priority I was left with 2.5 degrees of rear camber which with wider wheels / tyres results in more trailing.
When I had the alignment done the boys said that the various bushes in the rear assembly were looking ‘tired’..
So a return visit with some very expensive better rear trailing arm bushes..thicker more adjustable toe plates and better rear linkage bushes with upmarket better bearings in adjustable ARB links were fitted today..
A nice 150 potter down a series of A and B roads from East Kilbride to Lancaster showed a much much tighter ‘ controlled rear end.
The linkage bushes were shot and the RTAB were definitely soft..
Deep joy..
Some pictures of the new bits, the old toe plates and a complete set of Lemforder / Meyle HD new parts which I had in case the snake oil remedy promised by the upmarket bushes didn’t materialise..
I’ve got the brand new OE / uprated items for sale if anyone is interested?
I’d fitted adjustable camber arms but because the way the aged rear trailing arm system works as you adjust toe it interacts with camber.
However the rear trailing arm mounting plates have very little adjustment room and as toe in was a priority I was left with 2.5 degrees of rear camber which with wider wheels / tyres results in more trailing.
When I had the alignment done the boys said that the various bushes in the rear assembly were looking ‘tired’..
So a return visit with some very expensive better rear trailing arm bushes..thicker more adjustable toe plates and better rear linkage bushes with upmarket better bearings in adjustable ARB links were fitted today..
A nice 150 potter down a series of A and B roads from East Kilbride to Lancaster showed a much much tighter ‘ controlled rear end.
The linkage bushes were shot and the RTAB were definitely soft..
Deep joy..
Some pictures of the new bits, the old toe plates and a complete set of Lemforder / Meyle HD new parts which I had in case the snake oil remedy promised by the upmarket bushes didn’t materialise..
I’ve got the brand new OE / uprated items for sale if anyone is interested?
Attachments
Revised geometry..focus on straight line stability at the expense of turn in and in corner grip…
More castor than stock circa 2 degrees…perfect toe in front and rear..more front camber less rear..overall quite close to Z4M / G20 M40i geometry..
Pre adjustment shows impact of removing front subframe to fit new turbos..
More castor than stock circa 2 degrees…perfect toe in front and rear..more front camber less rear..overall quite close to Z4M / G20 M40i geometry..
Pre adjustment shows impact of removing front subframe to fit new turbos..
Attachments
john-e89 said:B21 said:
So when, and if...which hopefully will happen, you get this car running correctly, do you have any idea how long it will run for until it goes out of tune, or will it go out...? I'd imagine it will be on a knife edge all the time being in such a high state of tune despite the bigger blowers and supporting mods, 500bhp is a lot, especially if you're booting it, although I can't really imagine where you can use that sort of shove for any more than the odd brief spurt on a very suitable day, so perhaps that will keep some longevity if I'm right, which I'm probably not, but anyway, what's your take on it staying in tune...?
Genuine interested question, personally I can't think of a much less suitable car to take to 500+, BUT, that's just me, were all different, and I'm all for following ones dreams so I'm simply curious as to what the up keep of such an engine will be. Obvs the bottom end will be fine, it's the rest I'm thinking will need constant fettling, which may or not be an issue.
It's a N54, 500bhp is nothing for it
. Once he has it all set up it should be as reliable as a N54 can be lol.It's only when you start going above 650bhp that longevity might be effected.
Seems there is a group of folks here who thrive on Schadenfreude….
I guess by telling it as it goes with both the good bits and the ‘issues’ certain people seem to poo poo the good stuff and enjoy the inevitable setbacks….
For sure we’ll bottom the teething issues out
I guess by telling it as it goes with both the good bits and the ‘issues’ certain people seem to poo poo the good stuff and enjoy the inevitable setbacks….
For sure we’ll bottom the teething issues out
B21 said:
So a review of the revised bushes and geometry following a few hundred miles including yesterday this lovely set of roads shown..
The rear of the car is now much tighter…in line with the front..there’s no more tail wagging the dog..if anything it’s maybe too tight..the rear camber is moved from 2.9 degrees to 1.4..with 2.3 the book figure..
The car feels like the rear wants to oversteer from the rear..not sure whether that’s just me after years of a sloppy rear end feeling so much improvement or genuine oversteer…the feeling is abating as I drive it more…
What has gone is the bad tram lining and feels much much more stable at speed..
