Dan's New Z4M Coupe!

[-Tom-]

That looks like a bit of a pig of a job! But the central jacking point, and stands where they are is the way I’ve also always gone.

With regard to the clunking ... I had the engine mounts changed on mine last year. It totally transformed the car, they must have been shot. The front end felt much more together when pottering around town, and eliminated clunking that I hadn’t actually taken notice of before.

I had the gearbox fluid change with insp 2 a few months ago, and this further improved the feel of the car for me. Engaging 1st, and then 1-2 is sometimes still notchy; but nowhere near as bad as it used to be. Hopefully you find the same joy!

 

[DSGRNMCM]

Hi Tom, Were the engine founts a DIY job, or is it a PITA.

I'm assuming you have to suspend the engine while changing them?

 

[-Tom-]

I had it done at BMW with some other bits, but if you’ve got the space, it looks a bit fiddly but not technically difficult.

https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=58419

I’d upgrade to the VT mounts if you do it, everyone reviews them well on here. If the mounts visibly look ok, it’s worth checking first that the bolts are actually torqued up as a lot are known to have not been tightened properly from factory :tumbleweed:

 

[Mr Tidy]

Some impressive work done there Dan.

I got new engine mounts fitted when I had the bearing shells replaced by "bowser134", but he didn't recommend VT ones unless the car is going on the track so I just had OE. But the new ones definitely feel better!

 

[DSGRNMCM]

Cheers Guys,

Engine mounts next then...

 

[DSGRNMCM]

So one job that I have been dying to do was the gearbox oil, mainly as part of my sorting 1st and 2nd gear change out. I have the CDV delete and ZHP gear knob, and wanted to do the Royal Purple gear fluid change as the last part.

2 x Red Line MTL 75W80 GL-4 Manual Transmission Gear Oil 1 US Quart. Redline MTL (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-Line-MTL-75W80-GL-4-Manual-Transmission-Gear-Oil-1-US-Quart-Redline-MTL/283040254259?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)

I have not taken the car for a "test" drive as the 20 min job, went on a little longer as we were (Socially distanced of course) talking about cars and my neighbours new garage.

As the many guides on here say it is as easy as:

• Warm up gearbox oil (15min drive)
  Remove filler plug
  Remove drain plug
  Re fit new drain plug
  Fill until oil appears at filler plug
  Fit filler plug
  Torque up (35nm) done!

Also having the 8mm bolt helped (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-CALIPER-BOLT-SOCKET-SET-7mm-8mm-Hex-Stubby-3-8-Drive-Short-Allen-Keys/252659565873?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)

and an oil pump also (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-Transmission-Gearbox-Oil-Brake-Fluid-1L-Hand-Pump-Top-Up-Awkward-Area/391987393825?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)

I had looked at doing this using axel stands, but didn't fancy it. One vehicle ramp I tried, I could not get the arms in position to lift up. The Z4M jacking points are 104 cm apart and the lift I was using could not get the arms close enough to fit. My car has a 140mm floor to front bumper clearance and the jacking pads are 110mm so it was pretty tight.

On Friday myself and a mate helped my neighbour fit an install a car lift. It was pretty straight forward. bloody heavy though (Adhering to C19 safety obviously) and today it had been tested (With his wife's A4...) so I reversed my Z on to the ramp but the jacking pads were about 10mm too low for the car lift. As we started talking about using planks of wood under the wheel to lift the car or a trolley jack (Which I had lugged over) I realised I could just lift the body by the wheel arch and slide the arms under (Why did I not think of this previously...)





So that was it, car on, and raised! While the WD40 was soaking on the filler & drain plug I had a good look around and (I'm no mechanic or expert) the under car seemed, well a little rusty. Obviously like myself the previous owner had the car outside. more on that later.

(Am I missing a black shield on the RH side?



The existing plugs looked new, but I used new ones anyway as piece of mind. The oil filler worked a treat and it took just under 2 bottles of fluid. It really was a quick job.

new


old plugs


Now the under car bits. The shocks I'm surprised were not picked up at the service or last MOT. Any suggestions on replacements will be greatly received and any tips.

 

[beanie]

I wouldn't be overly concerned with the rust level, for a 14/15 year old 90-100k car that's probably lived outside or at least seen regular wet use, it seems about par for the course. As long as the chassis and main mounting points are solid then those are all bolt on components that can be easily refurbed or replaced.

You could easily 'touch up' the shocks and camber arms with a bit of time and paint or you could say sod it and change them for new parts as they're likely past their best anyway. As this is the Internet and it is customary to spend others money, I vote full refresh with some spangly coilovers as some visual gratification!

 

[DSGRNMCM]

Cheers Beanie, I feel like I should replace them, as it "should" be a simple job and they look shot to me.

 

[DSGRNMCM]

Hadn't posted in a while so thought I'd do a quick update.

So a few weeks back I changed the rear shocks for B4s. Initially it sorted out the rear height, then the next day it was back down low. So they are lowering springs on there.

Last Sunday (14th march) the dash started flashing random lights, then the radio started cutting out. So I thought that was strange, then a bang noise and the car went dead.

The negative lead collar had split. So a quick call to my car insurance to get the recovery guy out was actioned.

He got there in about 40 mins, I opened the boot with my key (as I stupidly shut it...) he then went and got a spare and 5 mins later fixed!

 

[AndyBeech]

Have you only changed the rear shocks out of interest or are the fronts new as well?