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Anonymous
Guest
Grasshopper you have found the divine path to true enlightenment.. 
When to select 2 channel
- Thread starter Z4C_er
- Start date
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Anonymous
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Well I would just un-cock it at the moment..
Let me know how it goes..are you hand cutting the cables or do you have a harness that can work?
Let me know how it goes..are you hand cutting the cables or do you have a harness that can work?
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Anonymous
Guest
OK that works...maybe purely for test purposes use a temp connector on the speaker cables pending a sound check..but if all ok then definitely solder and insulate well then..these babies if instructions followed are quite good..
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solder-sleeves/7812683?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Cables_%26_Wires_Whoop-_-Solder+Sleeves_Whoop-_-7812683&matchtype=&aud-827186183686
la-541126749997&gclid=CjwKCAjwr7X4BRA4EiwAUXjbtzUQwXOOjlzggBEF3MXMWA34J-FmcTI2VyotMS9cDbSLIrK2VQVX7BoC4g4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solder-sleeves/7812683?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Cables_%26_Wires_Whoop-_-Solder+Sleeves_Whoop-_-7812683&matchtype=&aud-827186183686
la-541126749997&gclid=CjwKCAjwr7X4BRA4EiwAUXjbtzUQwXOOjlzggBEF3MXMWA34J-FmcTI2VyotMS9cDbSLIrK2VQVX7BoC4g4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Anonymous
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That’s how I did do it but started using these as you get a good clamp action on the insulation from the heat shrink plus they seem to solder well and seal the joint against water ingress plus a heat gun works well..I then bury it all in heat shrink..should be able to take 45+G no worries
Yeah, never used those before. Of course, BTW I heat shrink after.Pbondar said:That’s how I did do it but started using these as you get a good clamp action on the insulation from the heat shrink plus they seem to solder well and seal the joint against water ingress plus a heat gun works well..I then bury it all in heat shrink..should be able to take 45+G no worries
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Anonymous
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Grasshopper..be aware that the line voltage from the headunit is around 2.5v not 600mv..so according to your amp manual you need to use speaker input not rca phono input..not clear to me how that works since it seems to go the same inputs..
Class D amp create massive harmonics if overdriven especially on the input side..destroys tweeted in seconds..
Class D amp create massive harmonics if overdriven especially on the input side..destroys tweeted in seconds..
Yes, thanks, I'm using the speaker line inputs connected via the adapter loom. Yes, it's designed to take inputs from either RCA or line-in, so don't know how it regulates it. But it must I guess.Pbondar said:
This is from Pioneer:
"The GM-D1004 automatically detects input signals, and selects an input signal mode between the RCA level and the speaker level."
I read last night that when someone bridged their amp, it changed the control from 'balance' to 'fade'. Will that happen to me?
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Anonymous
Guest
No the fade should work fine the only issue should be that the mid point will probably be not the normal position due to extra front performance..the slider will probably be more rear biased..just a guess..
Interesting reviews:
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/pioneer-gm-d1004-4-channel-car-amplifier-review.11528/
And hit the translate button for this one:
http://www.xn--80aeatqv1al.xn--p1ai/az/2015/01/pioneer_amp_gm_d1004.htm
Seems OK.
But next time I might opt for something like this:
https://mosconi-system.it/product/gladen-pico-2/
In the forum, someone has extracted a graphic (I'm thinking from Pioneer) for bridging. Thankfully, it ties in with what I/we did.
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/pioneer-gm-d1004-4-channel-car-amplifier-review.11528/
And hit the translate button for this one:
http://www.xn--80aeatqv1al.xn--p1ai/az/2015/01/pioneer_amp_gm_d1004.htm
Seems OK.
But next time I might opt for something like this:
https://mosconi-system.it/product/gladen-pico-2/
In the forum, someone has extracted a graphic (I'm thinking from Pioneer) for bridging. Thankfully, it ties in with what I/we did.
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Anonymous
Guest
Thanks for the reviews...these Class D amps have sure changed things..seems to be quite common that the amp chips can run more power than the psu can supply..but then maybe the circuit board then goes up instead!
So the articles answer the RCS/speaker wire issue..there must be attenuation built into the adapter harnesses..so much for the comprehensive documentation..
Anyway lets hear it now pls!
So the articles answer the RCS/speaker wire issue..there must be attenuation built into the adapter harnesses..so much for the comprehensive documentation..
Anyway lets hear it now pls!
Sorry been DIY-ing the last 2 days, but have done the re-wiring, and it's in the car. I broke out the amp power cable from the adapter (normally feeds from the head unit) and will tap into fuse 31 tomorrow (it's for the soft top which I don't have) and rated for 20A, so it should be fine for the amp, which will use a 15A fuse.
OK, so I connected it all up, and no good.Pbondar said:
Here's the outcome in bullet form:
- The rear speakers work fine.
- The front tweeters L/R receive power and seem to be OK, although seem down on power.
- The LEFT front main speakers (SW/Mid) seems to work OK.
- The RIGHT front main speakers (SW/Mid) don't work.
To be able to receive power to the tweeter on the right means the output of the amp has to be working. Something is coming from the amp. But not enough to drive the bigger speakers. Before you ask, yes, the amp is switched to 2CH setting. I also contacted Pioneer and they said the connections should be fine.
Is there an easy way to check the wiring polarities are correct? I put a multimeter across the amp output leads and they showed a positive reading, but only around 0.02v (both sides).
Any thoughts will be welcome, Master! Otherwise I'll just change back to 4 channel mode.
Yours,
Glasshoppa.
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Anonymous
Guest
Well I would wire up the two sets of main speakers on the front two channels and switch to 4 channel mode and see what gives..that will eliminate some things..sounds to me, pun, that you have a wiring fault between amp n speakers but this step will verify that wiring integrity..
That would certainly do it, but... I have run it like that before and all was OK. The only difference now is that the rears have been taken out of the equation. It all seems strange. I have gone over the connections again and again.Pbondar said:
But yes, I will try that this afternoon. Good thing is that after my complete rewiring, the head unit, amp and bluetooth dongle all get power and I have BT.
Thanks again.
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Anonymous
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If it’s not your wiring it’s the clever sh!t logic of the combo of selectable inputs and bridge mode..life was simpler when everything was hardwired..
Also the bmw outputs fall between two stools volts wise..another test is to frig the input with the phonos and see what gives..
Also the bmw outputs fall between two stools volts wise..another test is to frig the input with the phonos and see what gives..