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Soft top stuck down after winter hardtop removal
- Thread starter williamdefender
- Start date
williamdefender
Member
Aye the bypass valve was stuck in ( the wee brass bit on the side ) . I got it moving in and out with wd40 and it seems to be working ok . Maybe its half in or something , can't be sure having never worked on one . Thats why I'm interested in what kind of flow of oil i should get out of the ports . If i disconnect the line at the ram then all i get is a dribble of oil coming out . Just doesn't seem enough to get it moving . Reakon its time to get a motor . Good thing though is I'm learning . Had the roof out today in 40mins and reakon i can have her back in the same time .
Ok, the lines in the above picture. The lines on the right bolt should be the short lines and run to your passenger side/Driver side for USA cars. Whereas, the lines on the left bolt should run to the drivers side (long lines) English model/passenger side USA model.
If you have no leaks and when you remove the lines the pump only runs weakly. It's one of two things Pump related.
One. The emergency release ball bearing is still half frozen blocking the hydo flow. There is a cut out Troxes screw on the other side of the pump body. Remove this cutout screw. You'll see a spring...remove it. Now you'll see the other side of the ball bearing ....try working it (freeing it). Put it back together and see if it now works.
Two the pump itself has failed for reasons unknown......so if #1 doesn't do it and your sure the lifter pumps aren't leaking. you'll need a new motor.
Hope this helps
John...from across the pond.
If you have no leaks and when you remove the lines the pump only runs weakly. It's one of two things Pump related.
One. The emergency release ball bearing is still half frozen blocking the hydo flow. There is a cut out Troxes screw on the other side of the pump body. Remove this cutout screw. You'll see a spring...remove it. Now you'll see the other side of the ball bearing ....try working it (freeing it). Put it back together and see if it now works.
Two the pump itself has failed for reasons unknown......so if #1 doesn't do it and your sure the lifter pumps aren't leaking. you'll need a new motor.
Hope this helps
John...from across the pond.
williamdefender
Member
Excellent advice John. Many thanks for your support with this .
Jas- USA said:
Sorry, that's wrong. Driving at mo. Will pm op my number
Mike
williamdefender
Member
Thats brill , the real oem threw me
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BT51-EUR---E85-BMW-Z4+3.0i&diagId=54_0313
However i received this info which i believe is correct
11 LHS lower (plate connection).
13 RHS lower (plate connection).
12 LHS upper (clip connection).
14 RHS upper (clip connection).
So 11 & 13 are joined together at the pump and 12 & 14 are joined in the same way.
That is the way i had it connected so i have a replacement pump on route . Shall keep the thread updated . Thanks again all
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BT51-EUR---E85-BMW-Z4+3.0i&diagId=54_0313
However i received this info which i believe is correct
11 LHS lower (plate connection).
13 RHS lower (plate connection).
12 LHS upper (clip connection).
14 RHS upper (clip connection).
So 11 & 13 are joined together at the pump and 12 & 14 are joined in the same way.
That is the way i had it connected so i have a replacement pump on route . Shall keep the thread updated . Thanks again all
Just a quick message..
Did you clean up the motor ie bath it in diesel and running for about 20 mins in each direction? I mentioned this in an earlier post.
The motor rarely fail to the point of not being revivable.
Did you top up the the hydraulic fluid after removing the pipes to the required level?
When you refitted did you manually raise and lower the roof a few times to bleed the system?
You may well be getting a replacement pump for no reason.
I've done this job so can speak from experience rather than guesswork.
Did you clean up the motor ie bath it in diesel and running for about 20 mins in each direction? I mentioned this in an earlier post.
The motor rarely fail to the point of not being revivable.
Did you top up the the hydraulic fluid after removing the pipes to the required level?
When you refitted did you manually raise and lower the roof a few times to bleed the system?
You may well be getting a replacement pump for no reason.
I've done this job so can speak from experience rather than guesswork.
williamdefender
Member
hagasan said:
Hey Guy
I changed out my motor using ducklakeview and the German guy's method of thru the trunk ( I was screwed & had to do it this way because my emergency cable had also failed). However, I already had a new motor. It worked & I installed the hydo line one bolt set at a time. However, doing the trunk install one of my hydo lines had failed (most likely was on the way out already). Anyway, even with new motor top wasn't moving but...I was losing Hydo fluid. After tracing the leak (thank god it wasn't a lifter) I found that the drivers side (USA) lower lifter line was leaking. Ducklakeview attempt to help me using a thru the trunk change out of the line .....However, you can't transmit talent by word and he and the guy in Germany can pull off changing lines theu the trunk. In that, there are a lot of Medical Doctors but, not so many surgeons.
Anyway, I don't know the lines by numbers (I actually didn't need that info) but, from physically tracing then for the leak I know which line from the pump goes to which lifter.
However, this is a section of the BMW Z4 shop repair manual which covers repairs to hydo lines and it has your Line # info.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e85-z4-2.5i-roa/repair-manuals/54-slide-tilt-sunroof-soft-top/54-34-power-convertible-top/Bq9DfKV
I changed out my motor using ducklakeview and the German guy's method of thru the trunk ( I was screwed & had to do it this way because my emergency cable had also failed). However, I already had a new motor. It worked & I installed the hydo line one bolt set at a time. However, doing the trunk install one of my hydo lines had failed (most likely was on the way out already). Anyway, even with new motor top wasn't moving but...I was losing Hydo fluid. After tracing the leak (thank god it wasn't a lifter) I found that the drivers side (USA) lower lifter line was leaking. Ducklakeview attempt to help me using a thru the trunk change out of the line .....However, you can't transmit talent by word and he and the guy in Germany can pull off changing lines theu the trunk. In that, there are a lot of Medical Doctors but, not so many surgeons.
Anyway, I don't know the lines by numbers (I actually didn't need that info) but, from physically tracing then for the leak I know which line from the pump goes to which lifter.
However, this is a section of the BMW Z4 shop repair manual which covers repairs to hydo lines and it has your Line # info.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e85-z4-2.5i-roa/repair-manuals/54-slide-tilt-sunroof-soft-top/54-34-power-convertible-top/Bq9DfKV
williamdefender
Member
Thats a great link , thanks for that ...Will come in useful for fitting on Thursday
It doesn't matter where we call home, if you own one of these car's your in a special brotherhood where we all should join hands and help each other with keeping then on the road. I'd actually say that the top on these cars is perhaps one of it's greatest pain in the ass for all of us everywhere. Every forum, everywhere is filled with top won't come down....or perhaps more dreaded...won't come up.
Anyway, if you follow that link backwards it will outline every repair/part on the car.
Good luck
John
Anyway, if you follow that link backwards it will outline every repair/part on the car.
Good luck
John
williamdefender
Member
Chaps
1 x refurb motor / pump arrived today by special delivery . Took a fair bit of oil , filled it with a dripper 3 times due to the lines being empty and hey presto we are back in business . Roof is flying up and down really fast . Few bits to finish , like replacing shelf and securing the pump in that corner of the boot and ive the microswitch currently switched on using a piece of bath trim jammed in . Delighted that i got there in the end and rather than rush the finish ive walked away for the night and going to take my time and get the pump secured and hidden properly tomorrow evening . So all in all a great success , thanks to all that supported my efforts
1 x refurb motor / pump arrived today by special delivery . Took a fair bit of oil , filled it with a dripper 3 times due to the lines being empty and hey presto we are back in business . Roof is flying up and down really fast . Few bits to finish , like replacing shelf and securing the pump in that corner of the boot and ive the microswitch currently switched on using a piece of bath trim jammed in . Delighted that i got there in the end and rather than rush the finish ive walked away for the night and going to take my time and get the pump secured and hidden properly tomorrow evening . So all in all a great success , thanks to all that supported my efforts
williamdefender
Member
FINISHED
Some final picts which may help others .
Ok i pealed back the original carpet and discovered a earthing bolt . Digging about in the shed i came across the perfect solution . A bracket for the coil from my old mgb roadster . I fitted and bolted it tight , backed it up with a upper cable tie to another bracket..
I then proceeded to add some of the original padding to quiet down the motor .
I then looked at the routing of the hydraulic lines and used the little clip that was on the side of the plastic motor case holder . I also cable tie the lines to avoid then springing high and maybe getting nipped the roof at some stage .
Time to refit the shelf bracket . I ran into trouble here and found that the coil bracket was forcing the motor high a tiny bit and the shelf bracket would not fit . I didnt want to move the bracket as it was doing a good job and also ensured that the electrical connections were not going to get bend at the bottom . Fix was to get the angle grinder out and take a small slice of the shelf bracket . No harm done and nothing can be seen when fiitted . All went to back together without any drama .
Original carpet fitted back into place and job done .....
Some final picts which may help others .
Ok i pealed back the original carpet and discovered a earthing bolt . Digging about in the shed i came across the perfect solution . A bracket for the coil from my old mgb roadster . I fitted and bolted it tight , backed it up with a upper cable tie to another bracket..
I then proceeded to add some of the original padding to quiet down the motor .
I then looked at the routing of the hydraulic lines and used the little clip that was on the side of the plastic motor case holder . I also cable tie the lines to avoid then springing high and maybe getting nipped the roof at some stage .
Time to refit the shelf bracket . I ran into trouble here and found that the coil bracket was forcing the motor high a tiny bit and the shelf bracket would not fit . I didnt want to move the bracket as it was doing a good job and also ensured that the electrical connections were not going to get bend at the bottom . Fix was to get the angle grinder out and take a small slice of the shelf bracket . No harm done and nothing can be seen when fiitted . All went to back together without any drama .
Original carpet fitted back into place and job done .....
