Soft top stuck - what to check?

Hi everyone,

I would need some help here, my roof is stuck! :?

SO FIRST, I will take the altruist approach and summarize what I have researched/read here on the first things to check when you have this problem:

CASE1: If orange light and nothing move at all, not even the windows that should be folding (you don't have a problem):
- go to your boot and check the two big knods (either side of your parcel shelf) if they are in the correct position

CASE2: If flashing red light and it's attempting to move but cannot (you might have a problem):
0) have your roof closed manually if it rains :P
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=11274

1) Check the fuses: in the glove box, the one you are interested in is the 31, but can also be the 12 and 55. If this is your cause, carefully check the reference and replace it with a fuse of the same color and Amperage (you don't want to create some fire).

2) Check if the roof drains are clear to allow the water to go out properly and not flooding your roof motor, which is nicely explained there:
http://www.shipkiller.com/How%20to%20UnClog%20your%20SoftTop%20Drains.pdf
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1543559

3) check the micro-switch if they are not bent:
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=17933&hilit=Z+dead+roof
4) ...
5) ...
99) you have to replace the roof motor (yourself if you are handy or at the stealership) :thumbsdown:

Does anyone have any other idea? Is there any step 4) 5) etc. of simple checks to do before going to the expensive dreaded motor failure?

Sorry if this is not complete, this was made in quite a panic :headbang:
 
NEXT, my situation. Here's how it happened:

Yesterday evening, I wanted to remove a stuck dvd in the satnav unit, so I reset all the electronics by unplugged/replugged my battery. As it did not work, I tried several times at different moments during the evening, thus opening/closing my roof 2-3 times too (each time with turning the engine On just for the operations, to avoid battery wear). On the last time, I noticed that it was folding a bit more slowly than usual, not enough to make me worried though (although there was still some burnt smell, but I though it was just the exhaust...)

This morning, going to work, nice weather, I open the roof, and it folded reaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaally slowly. Arriving at work, I tried to close it but the motor was too weak and it stopped to fold back at 33%. I could eventually fold it back fully opened, there was enough juice in to do so. When trying for the last time to close it, flashing red lights on the button + unlock sound + some weak motor sound for the first seconds and then nothing moving: STUCK.

Just a detail, 6 months ago, I replaced my battery by a cheap one (I do regret), might that be the cause of the problem? I am going to a friend's place after work to check its voltage, the indy bmw mechanic told me that if less than 12v at iddle, that could be the battery.

Any other idea? Do you think it is the motor? :?
Any other checks before I go and empty my bank account on a new motor? :?
 
You've done your homework, you're in a better position to make a good diagnosis than anyone. I think you are just looking for confirmation for what you already know. It does sound like the roof motor has failed. One way to confirm that the battery is not the problem is try operating the roof with the engine revved. If the roof works then it's the battery, otherwise it's likely the motor, assuming you checked the other possibilities in your first post.
 
ok I will try the engine revved, justi n case... but I checked the battery on the voltmeter, everything seems to be ok, so I doubt...

fuses are ok too...

it's going to the garage tomorrow morning, anxious to see the quote... :?
 
seized motor pump ... everytime i open the roof i dread this :headbang: infact id say I sometime opt to not open the roof on short journeys for fear of it packing in.

Wonder if there is a pattern aside just pure rust that eventually causes failure. E.g people that never operate the roof in winter are more likely to have the motor seize on them in the summer?

The reason I say this is I used an old knackered hoover as a carpet cleaner recently sucking up water, it worked surprisingly well as I only wanted to clean a few sections of carpet, worked for over an hour i had it stood in a plastic container box to collect any escaped water from the cylinder and of course running of an RCD. Water did end up getting into the motor housing and out the back vent. However last weekend i took it out to hoover the car pretty sure it wouldnt work or at least blow up :-) it was fine the first 5 mins however after 10 mins the motor started running slower and slower until pop! it finally did nothing. The reason I think was the rust had time to build up inside the motor and did something with the brushes so I wonder if using the motor all year round actually helps keep it working? I have not had a failure but I always drop the top when cleaning the car every 2-3 weeks... i wonder if this helps?
 
yg54sg said:
... everytime i open the roof i dread this :headbang: infact id say I sometime opt to not open the roof on short journeys for fear of it packing in.
Opening is not so bad, but the pause before it goes back up kills me nearly every time. :headbang: I also leave it up sometimes for short trips, but I think it's more that I can't be bothered than fear of wearing it out... or maybe I just don't feel like having my heart skip a couple beats when I initiate the closing procedure.

yg54sg said:
Wonder if there is a pattern aside just pure rust that eventually causes failure. E.g people that never operate the roof in winter are more likely to have the motor seize on them in the summer?
I'm inclined to agree, there does seem to be some anecdotal evidence supporting this. Of course it's imperative to keep the drains clear, but there have been failures with clear drains as well. In such cases, I do believe regular operation will help prevent failure, or least forestall the inevitable. My theory is the heat generated helps drive out moisture and prevents moving parts from seizing due to corrosion.
 
the indie says it will take them 3hours to remore the roof and 3 hours again to put it back on, which would make 30EUR*6 only for this operation... really??? does anyone else think it sounds like a future rip-off?
 
Is there a minumum level the battery needs to be to drive the motor?

Ive still not sorted my roof, had it up and down today, only if i hold the revs at 2k for a few seconds before i hit the button.

Im sure its the motor but dont understand it working, then not working.
 
Of course :) It's not as simple as a particular voltage though. The battery (& alternator if engine is running) must deliver a certain amount of current whilst maintaining adequate voltage. The fuse is 40A, but the wire size leads me to believe the actual current draw is much less, perhaps 15-20A? The voltage whilst this current is being delivered needs to also be adequate. For all I know, the controller may shut down the motor if the voltage drops below a certain level.

This means you cannot determine battery health by simply measuring the voltage, it must be tested under load. The typical load tester used to determine if the battery is strong enough to start the car would stress the battery far more than the roof motor would.
 
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