Roof Shenanigans- E85 2003/08 Production Model

[Gee-Lanty]

The previous owner who owned the car had done the motor location modification in a improper way, causing wiring harness X13037 to become crimped and causing all sorts of intangible issues.

I’m worried I may have done the same. I managed to move my motor to the boot according to instructions on this forum however its very tight.

I’ve seen pictures of motors which are lowered in to the boot more than I was able to move mine. Mine sort of hangs there, I’m unable to move it low enough to touch the boot floor for instance. Is that normal?

I can’t see your posted pictures for reference.

 

[enuff_zed]

The previous owner who owned the car had done the motor location modification in a improper way, causing wiring harness X13037 to become crimped and causing all sorts of intangible issues.

I’m worried I may have done the same. I managed to move my motor to the boot according to instructions on this forum however its very tight.

I’ve seen pictures of motors which are lowered in to the boot more than I was able to move mine. Mine sort of hangs there, I’m unable to move it low enough to touch the boot floor for instance. Is that normal?

I can’t see your posted pictures for reference.

You should definitely have enough slack to be able to sit the motor in the corner between the shock tower and the bulkhead.
The shortest components are the hydraulic lines to the nearest ram, but even these come through far enough to reach to top of the pump whithout any strain.
Check all the pipes and the loom are free.
Did you undo any of the cable ties along the left side that hold the release cable in place? If not, it could be that which is holding it back.
I usually cut all the ties down that side first, then when complete I redo them to make it tidy but without any tight runs.
Number5 also advised me once, when I had a issue, that on occasion when you reroute the release cable it can pull it slightly so that it operates the bypass plunger. The cable has an adjuster to compensate for this if needed.

 

[Gee-Lanty]

I believe I cut 2 cable ties if I remember correctly, couldn’t find any more. I will definitely have another look.

 

[enuff_zed]

I believe I cut 2 cable ties if I remember correctly, couldn’t find any more. I will definitely have another look.

If you did it via the gynaecological method (in through the boot) then it is not so likely that you have trapped anything as you won't have disturbed any other parts. You may have kinked a pipe though?
Get hold of each pipe, cable and loom one at a time and see if they are free.
It may be that you have to unbolt the unions and remove the unit from the boot so you can rearrange the pipes etc.
In which case, note the order the pipe and electrical connectors fit, use lots of rags, and when you have finished and put it back together you will need to stand the unit upright and 'fill to spill' with hydrauloic jack oil. Don't secure it in place until you've done a couple of ups and downs to bleed it, as you'll then have to top up the fluid again.
In other words, only remove it as a last resort.

 

[ann.nonco]

Not sure why the img function on the website isn’t working, it’s just a normal html function

Edited my comment to include a URL link so everyone can see

 

[Gee-Lanty]

I believe I cut 2 cable ties if I remember correctly, couldn’t find any more. I will definitely have another look.

If you did it via the gynaecological method (in through the boot) then it is not so likely that you have trapped anything as you won't have disturbed any other parts. You may have kinked a pipe though?
Get hold of each pipe, cable and loom one at a time and see if they are free.
It may be that you have to unbolt the unions and remove the unit from the boot so you can rearrange the pipes etc.
In which case, note the order the pipe and electrical connectors fit, use lots of rags, and when you have finished and put it back together you will need to stand the unit upright and 'fill to spill' with hydrauloic jack oil. Don't secure it in place until you've done a couple of ups and downs to bleed it, as you'll then have to top up the fluid again.
In other words, only remove it as a last resort.

Thanks, I will certainly have a look.

Mind you I haven’t had any issues since relocating it to the boot, just wasn’t sure if it was done properly. It had just started to rain so I rushed to finish and never looked back since I noticed it was working without issue.

 

[enuff_zed]

I believe I cut 2 cable ties if I remember correctly, couldn’t find any more. I will definitely have another look.

If you did it via the gynaecological method (in through the boot) then it is not so likely that you have trapped anything as you won't have disturbed any other parts. You may have kinked a pipe though?
Get hold of each pipe, cable and loom one at a time and see if they are free.
It may be that you have to unbolt the unions and remove the unit from the boot so you can rearrange the pipes etc.
In which case, note the order the pipe and electrical connectors fit, use lots of rags, and when you have finished and put it back together you will need to stand the unit upright and 'fill to spill' with hydrauloic jack oil. Don't secure it in place until you've done a couple of ups and downs to bleed it, as you'll then have to top up the fluid again.
In other words, only remove it as a last resort.

Thanks, I will certainly have a look.

Mind you I haven’t had any issues since relocating it to the boot, just wasn’t sure if it was done properly. It had just started to rain so I rushed to finish and never looked back since I noticed it was working without issue.

Don’t leave it hanging though. At the very least use something to take the weight

 

[ann.nonco]

The roof works very nicely but I suspect with hydraulic fluid being required top-ups every two complete cycles and fluid pooling near the drain holes on both sides of the car I think the hinge seals are long dead since 2003.
The motor and latch work without issue

It seems that you can buy new hinges for around $450 per side.

Mind if I kindly ask if anyone would have any advice in regards to this?
I don't think the hinges would be serviceable as just looking at the part it looks to be welded and replacing the seal (o'ring or some sort) isn't an option.

I'm hoping to fix this issue as topping up the fluid every time is a bit embarrassing haha!

Some posts indicate that STOP LEAK is an option, but I think this would cause problems in the long run as spot leak itself can become a clogging medium in the pipes which could actually worsen the situation even further?

As per usual thank you to everyone that chimed in to help me in regards to this issue!

 

[enuff_zed]

Firstly confirm it is the rams and not the pipes into them.
Then let us know which parts you need. Even sent over from uk they won’t be that pricey

 

[ann.nonco]

Firstly confirm it is the rams and not the pipes into them.
Then let us know which parts you need. Even sent over from uk they won’t be that pricey

Will do!

 

[enuff_zed]

Firstly confirm it is the rams and not the pipes into them.
Then let us know which parts you need. Even sent over from uk they won’t be that pricey

Will do!

Look very carefully at the bottom pipe on each side where it bends into the ram. If they corrode they get tiny pinholes in them.

 

[ann.nonco]

Firstly confirm it is the rams and not the pipes into them.
Then let us know which parts you need. Even sent over from uk they won’t be that pricey

Will do!

Look very carefully at the bottom pipe on each side where it bends into the ram. If they corrode they get tiny pinholes in them.

I couldn't fit my phone (or my head in this matter) where the rams and pipes connect, but with a boroscope it seems to leak just around here.
View attachment 1

My apologies for the poor quality, but this is the best I could get the boroscope to show where the leak was.



I'll try to get someone with a better scope to check if it's that the ram or the pipe that's leaking onto the ram.

 

[enuff_zed]

Will do!

Look very carefully at the bottom pipe on each side where it bends into the ram. If they corrode they get tiny pinholes in them.

I couldn't fit my phone (or my head in this matter) where the rams and pipes connect, but with a boroscope it seems to leak just around here.
2023-12-20 22_32_21-IMG_0871.MOV - PotPlayer.png

My apologies for the poor quality, but this is the best I could get the boroscope to show where the leak was.

2023-12-20 22_37_53-IMG_0871.MOV - PotPlayer.png

I'll try to get someone with a better scope to check if it's that the ram or the pipe that's leaking onto the ram.

Can’t even tell if it’s a boy or a girl from that tbh.

 

[ann.nonco]

Look very carefully at the bottom pipe on each side where it bends into the ram. If they corrode they get tiny pinholes in them.

I couldn't fit my phone (or my head in this matter) where the rams and pipes connect, but with a boroscope it seems to leak just around here.
2023-12-20 22_32_21-IMG_0871.MOV - PotPlayer.png

My apologies for the poor quality, but this is the best I could get the boroscope to show where the leak was.

2023-12-20 22_37_53-IMG_0871.MOV - PotPlayer.png

I'll try to get someone with a better scope to check if it's that the ram or the pipe that's leaking onto the ram.

Can’t even tell if it’s a boy or a girl from that tbh.

Haha! Seems like I can't upload videos to this forum but it seems that fluid is dripping pretty quickly from that area.

Both sides seems to be weeping but the side closer to the pump (left side) drips more quickly than the other.

For now, ISO 42 fluid top up for each cycle seems to be a good enough sacrifice for the roof gods .

Will get it seen soon, thank you!