Project Spa - baton passed on. Keep reading

enuff_zed said:
Unless I am reading it wrong, it seems the exhaust cam sits on a replaceable ledge, but the inlet cam sits directly onto the machined head.
Click to expand...

Yes I have just read the same . Could be worth a cheeky phone call to BMW parts department to check with them if it is replaceable or not . Going back to the solenoids I have read that you swapped the solenoids over but did you try swapping the connectors to check they are on the right way round as I can`t see that you have tried that in your posts anywhere ?
 
1536Z4 said:
enuff_zed said:
Unless I am reading it wrong, it seems the exhaust cam sits on a replaceable ledge, but the inlet cam sits directly onto the machined head.
Click to expand...

Yes I have just read the same . Could be worth a cheeky phone call to BMW parts department to check with them if it is replaceable or not . Going back to the solenoids I have read that you swapped the solenoids over but did you try swapping the connectors to check they are on the right way round as I can`t see that you have tried that in your posts anywhere ?
Click to expand...
Yes I did double check that thanks. Compared it with the NewTIS illustrations where it actually states that they can be fitted wrongly. However, I'm not sure the routing would allow them to go on the wrong way round, not without them pulling tight and being obviously wrong.

This morning I went for a chat with the Mot-ists.
If the MIL comes on during the test it is a fail. However, they then reset it and providing it stays off they will sign up an immediate retest. As I provide them with a regular supply of Z4 tests to do it has been suggested that they may even reset it during the original test. I can neither confirm nor deny that statement though.
What this means is that even if [ref]Wayo11[/ref] decides not to risk it, then we can fall back on our original agreement, with me buying the car off him. I would happily use it as a daily runner as once it gets over itself on start up all is fine.

So, on my return from my hols, it's tax and insure it and I'll use it throughout April to see what transpires.

Whilst out and about I also popped in to see the old boy I take stuff beyond my abilities to. He listened to everything I had done and before I could even mention the cam ledge he said "You any good at fitting new cylinder heads?". :cry:
 
Enuff_Zed,

Hope I'm not taking your thread too much off topic. As a happy-so-far N52 owner, I've been following this thread. A while ago I tried to search the forum for information on N52 cam ledge problems, but I didn't come up with anything significant (maybe my search was poor).

ZPost, one US-based vendor, and a variety of YouTubers have commented on this issue. Can you or your "old boy" help me with solid information whether the engines that experience "cam ledge failure" are primarily poorly-maintained, whether only certain production ranges were affected, or whether it's every N52 that still has the steel sealing rings?

There was apparently a BMW TSB (at least in the US) to check and replace the steel sealing rings with an updated reinforced polymer seal - similar to the Besian-developed VANOS update rings that I once installed on my M54. Trouble is, I have checked with my local BMW main dealer who informed me that here in the US the individual service records don't rest with BMW USA, but with the dealership . . . a "not us" answer. Most concerning to me, was that one Z4 owner (on ZPost, IIRC) shared that his car was listed as having the TSB performed, but when he replaced the VC gasket and removed the intake cam cap, he found it still had steel rings :(

I didn't know this when I replaced my VC gasket, ESS sensor & seal, and Valvetronic gasket (preventively, weeping ESS seal). Since I have the Silver Top (early) N52, inspecting my cylinder head (intake) and cam tray (exhaust) to see whether the TSB was performed will mean I need to re-do most of that work, along with new VC gasket and aluminum screws.

Maybe I just have to do that - before I experience any symptoms (at 98K just now). Thanks for your input !

Mark
 
Well my research seems to suggest it happened some time in 2007, which is the year of this car. This engine is a black top.
I have no prior experience of this, and very little with the N52 in general. From the lack of forum input I'm guessing it is not something that happens very often.
The only real way to confirm it is to take things apart it seems. I could have dived in deeper, but the whole point of this project is to make it as cheap as possible.
Whilst I am not entirely convinced it will work, I have been offered another DME from a forum member, so after my holiday I will try that and see if it could possibly be a signal from that which isn't working.

As an aside, I would definitely recommend getting those two non-return valves out and cleaning the filters on them. It isn't quite as difficult as I thought it was, as long as you go in through the wheelarch.
 
Very interesting thread and progress so far. I’ve a silver top N52 E86 and have slight fluttering on start up, but not to the 2k that you refer to. I also just came across all that cam ledge stuff recently.

Two things…
Who or what is Janis? They are mentioned on page 1 and 2 but no idea who they are.
Secondly, could the idling be a vacuum leak in a pipe? They say the ccv breather pipe at the back of the engine can be brittle along with possible crack in the pipes around the throttle body. I didn’t see anywhere in the thread if you have checked those?
 
Hi chanion1. Janis is the previous owner of the car who sold it to me. I will let Martin respond on your second question when he is back from his holiday but thanks for the suggestion!
 
I have checked all the pipes etc. All in good nick.
I also suspect that would cause a continuous problem.
To clarify, I have started the engine while watching live data. The idle bumps up and then settles exactly in time with the inlet vanos angle suddenly jumping into life.
Usually the system recovers within a couple of seconds. There must be some type of timer in the DME as it only puts the check engine light on if the settling takes a little longer.
Home tomorrow, then it’s fresh oil and run it myself for a couple of weeks to see if I gain a better understanding.
 
Thanks wayo11 and enuff.
I’ve heard people in the past saying that sometimes a good blast and hard acceleration can sort out issues.
Not sure if they are having a laugh or not……
 
chanlon1 said:
Thanks wayo11 and enuff.
I’ve heard people in the past saying that sometimes a good blast and hard acceleration can sort out issues.
Not sure if they are having a laugh or not……
Click to expand...

I am hoping that will do the trick when Martin starts using it in anger. Fingers crossed…
 
j3nks79 said:
I think it’s a stuck vanos hub
Click to expand...
Do you mean the actual cylindrical unit on the front of the cam? Had no idea they could stick.
How easy is that to change?
I assume I would need to buy the rigging tools?

I wonder then if an oil change and enthusiastic use might free it off?
 
enuff_zed said:
j3nks79 said:
I think it’s a stuck vanos hub
Click to expand...
Do you mean the actual cylindrical unit on the front of the cam? Had no idea they could stick.
How easy is that to change?
I assume I would need to buy the rigging tools?

I wonder then if an oil change and enthusiastic use might free it off?
Click to expand...

Yes the hub. M1TCH is having the same issue at the moment. I was round his yesterday. If you have INPA you can see how the vanos inlet and exhaust are sitting. He has intake at -115 degrees.
You have a max variance of - or + 10 degrees for it to be within spec.
He spoke to Matt at ETA this morning and it basically needs re timing.
 
j3nks79 said:
enuff_zed said:
j3nks79 said:
I think it’s a stuck vanos hub
Click to expand...
Do you mean the actual cylindrical unit on the front of the cam? Had no idea they could stick.
How easy is that to change?
I assume I would need to buy the rigging tools?

I wonder then if an oil change and enthusiastic use might free it off?
Click to expand...

Yes the hub. M1TCH is having the same issue at the moment. I was round his yesterday. If you have INPA you can see how the vanos inlet and exhaust are sitting. He has intake at -115 degrees.
You have a max variance of - or + 10 degrees for it to be within spec.
He spoke to Matt at ETA this morning and it basically needs re timing.
Click to expand...
OK, Just been out to start it and check live data.
Before starting I had:

Vanos position - Inlet 125.23
Vamos position exhaust -115.29
Vanos adaptation inlet 5.61
Vanos adaptation exhaust 3.36

1. On starting up from cold after ten days sitting, I get the inlet not moving and the exhuast dropping momentarily to around -58, then back up to -115 again.
No fluctuation of idle and no check light.

2. Turn off, leave 30 seconds and start again.
This time exhaust doesn't move, inlet drops to around 75, then increments back up to 111 (accompanied by the higher revving for about a second), then back to 125 again and every thing runs smoothly. No check light.

3. Turn off, wait just a few seconds and start again. This time almost identical to start number 2, except the time to recover the idle back down to normal was fractionally longer and the check light came on.

After every start, regardless of check light, it records the 2A82 Vanos Inlet code.
Resetting this while running makes no discernable difference to sound, revs or live data.

Once running it purrs nicely.

Your thoughts appreciated please.
Could it be a failing vanos unit? If so, is it a DIY job? A brief google shows all kinds of histrionics about timing.
 
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