Project Spa - baton passed on. Keep reading
- Thread starter enuff_zed
- Start date
Hi mate, glad you got what looks a great wee Z- more than happy to still send you the details of my project Z for your friends. It will be ready April I’d think. I’ll email you the carvertical report today if you want to pass it on. I just need the time to collect the parts to fix the front and it will be good to go.Wayo11 said:Thanks for starting the thread Martin, can’t wait to see the progress in the coming weeks! A bit weird buying a car without even seeing it, but with the help of the forum my mind was put at rest.
We still need another 2 cars for the trip and I have got the ball rolling on convincing the others to go down the Z route. I quite fancy the idea of 3 Zs in convoy to Belgium and round the ring! Paddy’s project car is the next obvious choice if the stars align
Step 1 done! :driving:
paddy wright said:Hi mate, glad you got what looks a great wee Z- more than happy to still send you the details of my project Z for your friends. It will be ready April I’d think. I’ll email you the carvertical report today if you want to pass it on. I just need the time to collect the parts to fix the front and it will be good to go.Wayo11 said:Thanks for starting the thread Martin, can’t wait to see the progress in the coming weeks! A bit weird buying a car without even seeing it, but with the help of the forum my mind was put at rest.
We still need another 2 cars for the trip and I have got the ball rolling on convincing the others to go down the Z route. I quite fancy the idea of 3 Zs in convoy to Belgium and round the ring! Paddy’s project car is the next obvious choice if the stars align
Step 1 done! :driving:
Thanks Paddy - will pick up with you separately when I have shared the details with one of the other trippers
Finally! A little bit of progress. Managed to dive into the car between showers and found a few interesting things.
I'll group all the photos at the bottom for reference.
All taken from BMW Scanner 1.4.
Firstly, no surprises with the car itself. Information is stored in both the Instrument Cluster (IKE) and the Light Control Module (LCM)
These tally. There is nearly always a small discrepancy in mileage for some reason.
Ran a full system scan which of course threw up a load of historical stuff too.
There were codes for the vanos solenoids. These cleared and the engine light went out.
The DSC initially couldn't be found (unknown) however with the engine running it appeared and had codes including one for faulty pump.
I was able to clear these and all the trifecta went out! I was not convinced it was cured though.
In discussion with Stuart (bigwinn) he sent a link to 'quick fixes' for the DSC pump, including 'percussive adjustment'. :?
Not got to that extreme yet.
However it also said that the DSC can be upset by the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS). That had a code for 'CAN' issues. When I checked, the angle was well off.
Using Tool32 I was able to recalibrate the SAS and then back to Scanner 1.4 and the code cleared.
With no codes and a clear dash I switched everything off, waited ten minutes then started the car.
Still no lights. Steering turned lock to lock and still all clear.
However, when first started the engine still seems to run up a little high then settle back down.
One of the vanos codes came back, but again it cleared and after three more starts has not come back.
I am not entirely convinced things are as rosy as they seem.
Janis did say the ABS lights were intermittent.
I half expect them to come back after a drive. In which case I hope it doesn't hide away until Mark is halfway to Spa.
I will be discussing with him taxing and insuring the car for a month so I can give it a good shakedown. But being on holiday for half of March it makes more sense for me to do other work on it then road test in April.
Janis did include a 'reconditioned' DSC unit in the boot. Fingers crossed it's not needed though.
The final issue was a code for the PDC. Tbh it seems to be working ok, but i cannot clear the fault.
Obviously, any input to any of the faults and codes, or suggestions for further investigation, will all be gratefully received.
I'll group all the photos at the bottom for reference.
All taken from BMW Scanner 1.4.
Firstly, no surprises with the car itself. Information is stored in both the Instrument Cluster (IKE) and the Light Control Module (LCM)
These tally. There is nearly always a small discrepancy in mileage for some reason.
Ran a full system scan which of course threw up a load of historical stuff too.
There were codes for the vanos solenoids. These cleared and the engine light went out.
The DSC initially couldn't be found (unknown) however with the engine running it appeared and had codes including one for faulty pump.
I was able to clear these and all the trifecta went out! I was not convinced it was cured though.
In discussion with Stuart (bigwinn) he sent a link to 'quick fixes' for the DSC pump, including 'percussive adjustment'. :?
Not got to that extreme yet.
However it also said that the DSC can be upset by the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS). That had a code for 'CAN' issues. When I checked, the angle was well off.
Using Tool32 I was able to recalibrate the SAS and then back to Scanner 1.4 and the code cleared.
With no codes and a clear dash I switched everything off, waited ten minutes then started the car.
Still no lights. Steering turned lock to lock and still all clear.
However, when first started the engine still seems to run up a little high then settle back down.
One of the vanos codes came back, but again it cleared and after three more starts has not come back.
I am not entirely convinced things are as rosy as they seem.
Janis did say the ABS lights were intermittent.
I half expect them to come back after a drive. In which case I hope it doesn't hide away until Mark is halfway to Spa.
I will be discussing with him taxing and insuring the car for a month so I can give it a good shakedown. But being on holiday for half of March it makes more sense for me to do other work on it then road test in April.
Janis did include a 'reconditioned' DSC unit in the boot. Fingers crossed it's not needed though.
The final issue was a code for the PDC. Tbh it seems to be working ok, but i cannot clear the fault.
Obviously, any input to any of the faults and codes, or suggestions for further investigation, will all be gratefully received.
Attachments
OK, two steps forwards one step back.
Went back out to check a few more things.
Engine hunted badly for a few seconds from cold, then settled again. But the engine light is back on, with the solenoid codes.
Given that the solenoids have recently been changed, I need some suggestions on what next please.
Aircon needs a regas.
Front top mounts checked for the usual cracking and found to be solid.
Wiper blades had a damn good workout and they are fine. :roll:
Went back out to check a few more things.
Engine hunted badly for a few seconds from cold, then settled again. But the engine light is back on, with the solenoid codes.
Given that the solenoids have recently been changed, I need some suggestions on what next please.
Aircon needs a regas.
Front top mounts checked for the usual cracking and found to be solid.
Wiper blades had a damn good workout and they are fine. :roll:
Reliably informed they have been changed. Code is 2A82 inlet solenoid.j3nks79 said:
It only happens if you leave the car for ten minutes or more then restart.
Once started you can clear the code and it runs smoothly with the light out.
However, live data shows no movement of the cam timing when you rev the engine.
There is also no movement of the valvetronic servo when revved, which I would have expected to see.
All adaptations reset but that made no difference.
Got someone needing an airbag module coded, so temporary work stop.
Next plan of action is take out the solenoids, double check they are clean and operate with 12v on them.
I have also read it is possible to juxtapose the plugs, but not sure I'll know if they are on wrongly now?
Then there is talk of filters on the side??
Next plan of action is take out the solenoids, double check they are clean and operate with 12v on them.
I have also read it is possible to juxtapose the plugs, but not sure I'll know if they are on wrongly now?
Then there is talk of filters on the side??
Will do. Thanks.j3nks79 said:
But when I clear the fault it still doesn't move.
I also just read an article saying if the cage in the oil filter housing is damaged or missing it allows unfiltered oil through which could gum up even new solenoids pretty quickly.
When did it last have an oil change? Normally the filter collapses and it starves the oil going through. But I’d expect to see an oil pressure code for that maybe?!
Start with the clean and test on solenoids. Might also be worth pulling our the valve tronic motors. Re fitting so it can relearn its position.
Start with the clean and test on solenoids. Might also be worth pulling our the valve tronic motors. Re fitting so it can relearn its position.
A little more progress this afternoon.
Removed the vanos solenoids just as a belt'n'braces check. Apologies to Janis if he feels I didn't trust him, I just wanted to start from the logical beginning.
As I should have known, both solenoids were shiny and new, no blockages and operated perfectly. so they are back in place.
Then I popped the top cover off!
As I half expected, the seal has failed around the eccentric cam sensor, oil everywhere, including down inside the plug. I sprayed it liberally with contact cleaner while I whipped out the coils. These all turned out to be nice and dry with no evidence of any oil seeping into the plug wells.
Started it up and no engine light, but the engine revved momentarily to 2k then straight back to a smooth idle.
Turned it off, left it ten minutes then started it again. Back to square one! Hunting for a few seconds, enough for the Engine light to come on, then settles into a perfect idle and performs flawlessly. But with that light on!
Code is, once again, '2A82 VANOS intake'.
I swapped the solenoids when I put them back in as well.
Any ideas you N52 experts?
I am thinking I am going to have to fit a new eccentric cam sensor anyway, as with that much oil around I cannot rule it out as the problem somehow.
Prices of new ones seem to vary a lot, any recommendations on a good quality one at a decent price?
Removed the vanos solenoids just as a belt'n'braces check. Apologies to Janis if he feels I didn't trust him, I just wanted to start from the logical beginning.
As I should have known, both solenoids were shiny and new, no blockages and operated perfectly. so they are back in place.
Then I popped the top cover off!
As I half expected, the seal has failed around the eccentric cam sensor, oil everywhere, including down inside the plug. I sprayed it liberally with contact cleaner while I whipped out the coils. These all turned out to be nice and dry with no evidence of any oil seeping into the plug wells.
Started it up and no engine light, but the engine revved momentarily to 2k then straight back to a smooth idle.
Turned it off, left it ten minutes then started it again. Back to square one! Hunting for a few seconds, enough for the Engine light to come on, then settles into a perfect idle and performs flawlessly. But with that light on!
Code is, once again, '2A82 VANOS intake'.
I swapped the solenoids when I put them back in as well.
Any ideas you N52 experts?
I am thinking I am going to have to fit a new eccentric cam sensor anyway, as with that much oil around I cannot rule it out as the problem somehow.
Prices of new ones seem to vary a lot, any recommendations on a good quality one at a decent price?
axelleveau
Member
I think it makes sense that a messed up eccentric shaft sensor would lead the ECU to get valve lift out of wack on start-up and then adjust to bring the idle back down. As you said, if it is full of oil it will probably fail eventually so despite the removal of valve cover being quite involved and probably having to be replacing the gasket at the same time, I would just go for it. I used a fairly cheap one from Autodoc, being my own car I don't mind doing it again if it fails, maybe not the same for you... :driving:
The price point will be guided by[ref]Wayo11[/ref] as the whole point is to keep to a budget.axelleveau said:
I was already planning to change the top cover gaskets as it's leaking quite a bit at the back lower corner. This would involve replacing the servo motor and cam sensor seals as well.
Did the same gasket on an E89 last week. Needs an extra pair of hands to wriggle it back in under the loom that crosses it, but apart from that not too bad.
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