Problem installing OEM strut brace

K

Kdawg

Member
Upstate, NY
So I finally got around to installing my OEM strut brace today, and of course, it couldn't go smoothly. I'm having trouble fitting the strut pieces. No matter how I line it up I can get one nut to fit, but the other two strut bolts are too close to the sides of the brace to allow the new nuts to fit smoothly. I tried the install while parked on my driveway, which is pretty level, so I don't think that was the issue. The problem is the same on both strut towers. Here's what I am talking about:

P1010850.jpg

P1010851.jpg

One of the new nuts.
P1010852.jpg

As you can see the protruding end of the nut (above) will not fit through the brace. No matter how I line it up.
P1010853.jpg

I double checked the part number, and it is the correct one for the E85. Any suggestions? I'm pretty bummed out. I thought this would be an easy part to fit based on what I've read.
 
Now I've gone and done it...

I was trying to lightly tap the bolts to align with the holes and one of them got very loose. Then it dropped out of sight! I don't have a jack to take my wheel off to try to find it, so I'm throwing in the towel. Looks like I'll be calling the dealership in the morning, but is this thing even safe to drive there (15 miles away), with only two 5/6 strut bolts in place? :(
 
I'd probably say no, as they're used to keep the suspension attached to the car. with the stiffness of the suspension, you could be putting a lot of stress on the remaining two bolts - and you really don't want that to go wrong!

As for the bar not fitting, I've just gone and looked at mine for you, and from what I can see, it seems quite tight, but not AS tight as yours. looking around on this and nother forums, i couldn't see anyone with the same problem. I don't suppose there's a difference between the 2.5 and 3.0 bars? and you've not got the wrong one?
sorry that's not much help :/
 
Thanks for the reply. The part I have is: 51 710 305 114. The worst part was the tapping seemed to be making progress. I was just trying to move it another millimeter or so and it became loose and it fell straight through.
 
The studs are just press fit into the upper strut mounting.

Just reinsert the stud and tap it into place. Once you get the nut on it and torqued, you are golden. It won't move.

I personally would take a file to each mounting hole that does not line up and open it up just enough to allow the nut to fit...
 
i fitted mine to my 57 3.0si and it went on with no trouble, i think one brace fits all, strange you are a problem, not much help i know.
 
Not sure if you've tried this but the strut tower bolts have some slight movement in them. Loosely fit 2 of the bolts and then use the brace 'fitting' bracket to wiggle the other bolt into place, once the shouldered nut is in place then torque up to advised setting. Worked on mine.
 
Mine fit perfectly from the start. I put all three nuts on, tightened just a bit, then torqued down. It's snug, but works.
 
I didn't set mine to any torque since I couldn't even get the nuts to seat. :( The instruction sheet I have did say 35 Nm though.

Thanks for the replies everyone, but I caved in and scheduled an appointment for Wednesday afternoon. Nothing ever goes smoothly for me, I don't know why I bothered to attempt it in the first place. I'm also having them put on my M steering wheel. :driving: I was going to attempt that too, but knowing me I'd find a way to screw that up as well.
 
Reading the other posts about moving your stuts....

To move the struts in or out, you have to loosen the three nuts on the strut tower (as you have already figured out) and then remove the small locking stud, which is a hex stud located very near one of the stut nuts on the top of the strut tower. The component you are working on.

BE ADVISED that removing that locking stud and moving the upper strut WILL change your Camber adjustment for that wheel.

BMW locks the Camber to a specific setting with that stud. You can remove the stud and change your camber. Moving the top of the strut inwards towards the car increases camber and moving it outward decreases camber.
 
Shipkiller said:
Reading the other posts about moving your stuts....

To move the struts in or out, you have to loosen the three nuts on the strut tower (as you have already figured out) and then remove the small locking stud, which is a hex stud located very near one of the stut nuts on the top of the strut tower. The component you are working on.

BE ADVISED that removing that locking stud and moving the upper strut WILL change your Camber adjustment for that wheel.

BMW locks the Camber to a specific setting with that stud. You can remove the stud and change your camber. Moving the top of the strut inwards towards the car increases camber and moving it outward decreases camber.
Click to expand...

That's pretty handy information, sounds like that would have done the trick for me. Mine seems to be sticking up a lot higher than other pictures I saw of others on here and other forums. Maybe the previous owner had some adjustments made. Since I have no way to get at the bolt that fell through the hole, I don't have much of a choice other than try taking it to the dealer. I'm sure they will probably sock me with an alignment on top of everything else.

Hopefully, that'll do the trick in case anyone else has this problem.
 
Smokin said:
25 ft/lbs. I *think* that's 31 metric but do the conversion to make sure.
Click to expand...

I found a calculator/converter online and it says 35 Nm = 25.8 ft/lb. So if Acerboo set his at 31 ft/lb that is equal to 42 Nm, and are a little over-torqued compared to what it says in the manual I have. I know someone else here had an issue with the nuts splitting, which may have been a problem from over-torquing. From what I remember those strut brace nuts aren't cheap 7-8 dollars a piece. :o
 
Yeah, I was pretty paranoid about have that wrench *exactly* on 25 ft/lbs 'cause I had heard the same!
 
I got everything sorted today. :thumbsup: They found the bolt that had fallen off the strut tower and put it back in, and were able to fit the strut brace and the M steering wheel. I can't say I noticed a difference with the strut brace, but I didn't get after it either. I will say that the M steering wheel sure does make a big difference. It feels a lot sportier. Great upgrade, and it didn't cost me as much as I thought it would ($113 for the labor to fit both).

...

Just in time to put it up for the winter. :cry:
 
I had the same trouble instaling my brace. I gently tapped a couple of the bolts into place on both sides of the car and it fell right into place. BAD IDEA!!! The alignment was WAY off afterwards and I had to have it realigned. I should have taken it to the dealer and let them put it on for the half hour worth of labor they were wanting for the job.
 
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