My Second Zed Thread (2010 E89 sDrive30i)
- Thread starter Timmyboybunter
- Start date
Rassi said:Wow! A very very good deal just got better!I see your reasoning is exactly the same as mine. Go for it!
Done, bought and a new set of centre caps too so all in about €550 - £500 very pleased with that for BM wheels and genuine caps
Argyll Andy said:Done, bought and a new set of centre caps too so all in about €550 - £500 very pleased with that for BM wheels and genuine caps
That's outstanding value - congrats, I think those wheels look great
Bumper arrived today - overall very decent condition, should clean up nicely. Some scratches underneath (out of sight) and the odd mark here and there, but overall very pleased.
maxman said:I think you have a bumper fetish
No wax this time
Timmyboybunter said:Argyll Andy said:Done, bought and a new set of centre caps too so all in about €550 - £500 very pleased with that for BM wheels and genuine caps
That's outstanding value - congrats, I think those wheels look great
I hadn’t really seen them until your thread and I liked them then but still a bit dear And unnecessary, then Rassi posted the link about them at £100 cheaper then I went and had another wee nosey last night and at that price it honestly didn’t make sense not to buy them. Just need to decide what to do with the 296’s now.
These bloody cars make you spend money
Yours is coming along well, I’m enjoying following your progress - I like the new bumper
M-sport front bumper now fitted - as with most of my mods it wasn't smooth sailing but got there in the end and very pleased with the end result - both because the scratched mess that was my original bumper is now gone, and the M-sport bumper does make the car look a lot more angry.
Original non M-Sport bumper:
Removal is straightforward. 5 screws under the front lower lip, 5 torx screws across the front, 3 screws either side inside the wheel well, 1 additional screw (which is quite well hidden) close to the nearside mounting bracket assemble.
PDC sensors just release after opening plastic jaws (and the wire connecting the 4 sensors has plastic mounting screws which just pop out), washer jet covers clip off (need to push them forward and out of the bumper from behind to be able to release the clips) then the washer mechanism has 3 tabs to release inside - 2 either side and one at the top. The top one is very brittle - be careful. If you disconnect the washer fluid hose to make life easier, all your fluid will run out
Gives you this:
At some point a poor bird has ended up through the grills and into the housing in front of the radiator
Whatever is missing from your new bumper then needs transferring over. In my case this was all the metal screw mounting holes and - as I thought at the time - the PDC sensor mounts. These mounts are fixed to the bumper originally by melting lots of little points of plastic from the sensor mount onto the bumper. Note these mounts are NOT listed on real OEM as a seperate part, but do have part numbers stamped on them (actually different part numbers as the orientation of the middle and outer sensors is different).
Here's one of the removed sensors - the middle bit is colour coded and sticks into the rear of the bumper, pushing the colour coded bit out so it sits flush at the front.
I was going to attach the PDC sensor mounts using the same acrylic tape I've been using for number plates over the past couple of years (amazing stuff), but when I offered the mount up to the bumper the damn thing doesn't fit; the colour coded bit from the old bumper will not fit through the PDC holes in the new bumper as the mount is a different design.
The PDC holes in the M-sport bumper - smaller, and you can see where a mount was previously attached using sticky backing (which my new ones came with)
To be clear: if swapping from a standard to a M-sport bumper, if they both already have PDC sensors mounts already fitted, you'll be fine - the sensors will just unplug from one and plug into the other. If however you have no sensors mounts in your new M-sport bumper like me, you'll need to buy some new ones as they can't be transferred:
The new mounts are similar to the old, in that one part number includes 4 different mounts, 2 of which are of different orientation.
Reassembly of the bumper is straightforward - after shot for comparison: (looks awful as the new bumper is far less dirty than the car but covered in storage marks)
And after a wash, polish and wax:
The other part which I found to be incompatible is the towing eye cover - missing in the above picture. These are quitre pricy as need to be colour matched, after much searching around I found this one listed on Ebay. Part number is confusing as RealOEM doesn't recognise it and it differs from the part number in the RealOEM diagram - but I found many references to this part number which mention the E89 M-sport bumper so thought I'd take a punt on it given the low price and what looks to be black saphire paint - the part arrived this morning and very chuffed to report it is 100% correct, despite what the Ebay listing states:
but got there in the end and very pleased with the end result - both because the scratched mess that was my original bumper is now gone, and the M-sport bumper does make the car look a lot more angry.Original non M-Sport bumper:
Removal is straightforward. 5 screws under the front lower lip, 5 torx screws across the front, 3 screws either side inside the wheel well, 1 additional screw (which is quite well hidden) close to the nearside mounting bracket assemble.
PDC sensors just release after opening plastic jaws (and the wire connecting the 4 sensors has plastic mounting screws which just pop out), washer jet covers clip off (need to push them forward and out of the bumper from behind to be able to release the clips) then the washer mechanism has 3 tabs to release inside - 2 either side and one at the top. The top one is very brittle - be careful. If you disconnect the washer fluid hose to make life easier, all your fluid will run out
Gives you this:
At some point a poor bird has ended up through the grills and into the housing in front of the radiator
Whatever is missing from your new bumper then needs transferring over. In my case this was all the metal screw mounting holes and - as I thought at the time - the PDC sensor mounts. These mounts are fixed to the bumper originally by melting lots of little points of plastic from the sensor mount onto the bumper. Note these mounts are NOT listed on real OEM as a seperate part, but do have part numbers stamped on them (actually different part numbers as the orientation of the middle and outer sensors is different).
Here's one of the removed sensors - the middle bit is colour coded and sticks into the rear of the bumper, pushing the colour coded bit out so it sits flush at the front.
I was going to attach the PDC sensor mounts using the same acrylic tape I've been using for number plates over the past couple of years (amazing stuff), but when I offered the mount up to the bumper the damn thing doesn't fit; the colour coded bit from the old bumper will not fit through the PDC holes in the new bumper as the mount is a different design.
The PDC holes in the M-sport bumper - smaller, and you can see where a mount was previously attached using sticky backing (which my new ones came with)
To be clear: if swapping from a standard to a M-sport bumper, if they both already have PDC sensors mounts already fitted, you'll be fine - the sensors will just unplug from one and plug into the other. If however you have no sensors mounts in your new M-sport bumper like me, you'll need to buy some new ones as they can't be transferred:
The new mounts are similar to the old, in that one part number includes 4 different mounts, 2 of which are of different orientation.
Reassembly of the bumper is straightforward - after shot for comparison: (looks awful as the new bumper is far less dirty than the car but covered in storage marks)
And after a wash, polish and wax:
The other part which I found to be incompatible is the towing eye cover - missing in the above picture. These are quitre pricy as need to be colour matched, after much searching around I found this one listed on Ebay. Part number is confusing as RealOEM doesn't recognise it and it differs from the part number in the RealOEM diagram - but I found many references to this part number which mention the E89 M-sport bumper so thought I'd take a punt on it given the low price and what looks to be black saphire paint - the part arrived this morning and very chuffed to report it is 100% correct, despite what the Ebay listing states:
Also managed to pick up a set of roof buttons in decent condition from Ebay, as mine are in a bit of a state (common problem with the paint flaking off).
I've actually managed to buy 2 this week after a few months of half heartedly searching around - the first one is in a worse state to mine but was fairly cheap, so I was going to investigate the 'refurb' option, either DIY/after market vinyl stickers, or using a company in Spain called 'Serprint' which was recommended on Facebook. No need for the refurb option now thankfully.
I've actually managed to buy 2 this week after a few months of half heartedly searching around - the first one is in a worse state to mine but was fairly cheap, so I was going to investigate the 'refurb' option, either DIY/after market vinyl stickers, or using a company in Spain called 'Serprint' which was recommended on Facebook. No need for the refurb option now thankfully.
Timmyboybunter said:
Can you not just put the spare set in the Zed you bought this week, the windows are tinted darkly enough no one will notice
I'm not convinced the tints in the mini-Zed are strictly legal :?
Timmyboybunter said:
But it’s just a show car, not for road use
Had a go at making the leather seats more presentable at the weekend.
This is using the Gliptone / Scuffmaster Liquid Leather touch up kit, which for the option I selected gives you 4 products:
Used the cleaner first which did remove a fair amount of grime (even though I've cleaned the seats previously using baby wipes), then went over them again using the degreasnt - which didn't seem to do much, but I didn't really have any marks/stains to come off, as is the intended use.
Then applied the dye by squeezing onto a lint free cloth and dabbing onto the most obvious areas which needed attention. Initial impression is: hmm, that was a wasted of money, it doesn't actually cover anything. The weekend was very warm so the coats dried quickly, so as I worked my way around the driver seat first, I kept going back to the really obvious marks and adding another layer every couple of minutes. By the time I'd finished a general dab over the seat (takes a good long time), multiple layers had been added to the bad scuffs and marks - and they have actually come up very well indeed. The single most obvious mark on the bolster has basically disappeared.
Before:
After:
I let that dry for 24 hours, then used the final conditioner product - nice smell (have used this one before) and once that had dried (took a day again before that was truly dry), the job is finished.
I used less dye on the 2nd seat, partially because it was in better condition, partially becuase I'd had enough of doing it but now I know how well it works and how simple it is to use, I'll probably have another more methodical go in the futuer (and use it as an ongoing maintenance task to keep the seats looking decent).
I note on the website that the dye bottle is now 250 ml, whereas before (and as is printed on the label!) it only used to be 60ml. I've probably used 2/3 to 3/4 of the bottle and have only completed the seats - not really 100% coverage - and the arm rest; the rest of the interior (I have the extended leather option) remains to be done if I'm truly being picky, so will probably pick up another bottle of the dye on its own.
At this point in time then, I would heartily recommend this product.
This is using the Gliptone / Scuffmaster Liquid Leather touch up kit, which for the option I selected gives you 4 products:
Used the cleaner first which did remove a fair amount of grime (even though I've cleaned the seats previously using baby wipes), then went over them again using the degreasnt - which didn't seem to do much, but I didn't really have any marks/stains to come off, as is the intended use.
Then applied the dye by squeezing onto a lint free cloth and dabbing onto the most obvious areas which needed attention. Initial impression is: hmm, that was a wasted of money, it doesn't actually cover anything. The weekend was very warm so the coats dried quickly, so as I worked my way around the driver seat first, I kept going back to the really obvious marks and adding another layer every couple of minutes. By the time I'd finished a general dab over the seat (takes a good long time), multiple layers had been added to the bad scuffs and marks - and they have actually come up very well indeed. The single most obvious mark on the bolster has basically disappeared.
Before:
After:
I let that dry for 24 hours, then used the final conditioner product - nice smell (have used this one before) and once that had dried (took a day again before that was truly dry), the job is finished.
I used less dye on the 2nd seat, partially because it was in better condition, partially becuase I'd had enough of doing it
but now I know how well it works and how simple it is to use, I'll probably have another more methodical go in the futuer (and use it as an ongoing maintenance task to keep the seats looking decent).I note on the website that the dye bottle is now 250 ml, whereas before (and as is printed on the label!) it only used to be 60ml. I've probably used 2/3 to 3/4 of the bottle and have only completed the seats - not really 100% coverage - and the arm rest; the rest of the interior (I have the extended leather option) remains to be done if I'm truly being picky, so will probably pick up another bottle of the dye on its own.
At this point in time then, I would heartily recommend this product.
Replaced my worn roof buttons with the new set I picked up on Ebay. Nice easy job.
Before:
Gear lever plastic surround just pulls upward, as does the lever itself. 2 electrical connectors to pop off:
Then remove further connectors for ash tray, iDrive, hand brake and mode selectors - the ash tray also needs to be removed to get enough access to be able to remove the roof buttons, this is held on with 4 torx screws:
Replacement buttons fitted (they're perfect), ash tray added back on:
And back in the car.
Before:
Gear lever plastic surround just pulls upward, as does the lever itself. 2 electrical connectors to pop off:
Then remove further connectors for ash tray, iDrive, hand brake and mode selectors - the ash tray also needs to be removed to get enough access to be able to remove the roof buttons, this is held on with 4 torx screws:
Replacement buttons fitted (they're perfect
), ash tray added back on:And back in the car.
My rear BMW roundel was in a bit of a state, so I've bought a nice new one. Another easy job, though I made it harder than it should be
I forgot to take a 'before' prior to butchering the badge, but here's a grab from another photo:
I very, very carefully prised the badge away from the silver surround - it was only when congratulating myself that I managed to do it without marking the surround, that I realised the surround I was protecting is actually part of the badge, so will be replaced anyway. Doh.
This pic shows the badge I initialy removed, now folded - to show the silver surround bit behind which also just pulls off (it is held on just with a sticky pad, plus 2 plastic bits that just rest agains the car to guide it home accurately)
Tidied up with some Goo Gone, bit of 3 in one on the spring mechanism: (those marks on the outer section is actually corrosion)
And ready for the new badge - after pic to follow when it arrives from Latvia
Edit: 1st June, the badge shows up...
I forgot to take a 'before' prior to butchering the badge, but here's a grab from another photo:
I very, very carefully prised the badge away from the silver surround - it was only when congratulating myself that I managed to do it without marking the surround, that I realised the surround I was protecting is actually part of the badge, so will be replaced anyway. Doh.
This pic shows the badge I initialy removed, now folded - to show the silver surround bit behind which also just pulls off (it is held on just with a sticky pad, plus 2 plastic bits that just rest agains the car to guide it home accurately)
Tidied up with some Goo Gone, bit of 3 in one on the spring mechanism: (those marks on the outer section is actually corrosion)
And ready for the new badge - after pic to follow when it arrives from Latvia
Edit: 1st June, the badge shows up...
Timmyboybunter said:Had a go at making the leather seats more presentable at the weekend.
This is using the Gliptone / Scuffmaster Liquid Leather touch up kit, which for the option I selected gives you 4 products:
20200507_134346.jpg
Used the cleaner first which did remove a fair amount of grime (even though I've cleaned the seats previously using baby wipes), then went over them again using the degreasnt - which didn't seem to do much, but I didn't really have any marks/stains to come off, as is the intended use.
Then applied the dye by squeezing onto a lint free cloth and dabbing onto the most obvious areas which needed attention. Initial impression is: hmm, that was a wasted of money, it doesn't actually cover anything. The weekend was very warm so the coats dried quickly, so as I worked my way around the driver seat first, I kept going back to the really obvious marks and adding another layer every couple of minutes. By the time I'd finished a general dab over the seat (takes a good long time), multiple layers had been added to the bad scuffs and marks - and they have actually come up very well indeed. The single most obvious mark on the bolster has basically disappeared.
Before:
Base before.jpg
Base 2 before.jpg
Bolster 1 before.jpg
Bolster 2 before.jpg
Base 2 before.jpg
After:
Base after.jpg
Base 2 after.jpg
Bolster 1 after.jpg
Bolster 2 after.jpg
Bolster 3 after.jpg
I let that dry for 24 hours, then used the final conditioner product - nice smell (have used this one before) and once that had dried (took a day again before that was truly dry), the job is finished.
I used less dye on the 2nd seat, partially because it was in better condition, partially becuase I'd had enough of doing it
I note on the website that the dye bottle is now 250 ml, whereas before (and as is printed on the label!) it only used to be 60ml. I've probably used 2/3 to 3/4 of the bottle and have only completed the seats - not really 100% coverage - and the arm rest; the rest of the interior (I have the extended leather option) remains to be done if I'm truly being picky, so will probably pick up another bottle of the dye on its own.
At this point in time then, I would heartily recommend this product.
Those seats are looking real good, definitely worth the effort!
How's the colour match of the dye? I recently tried the dye from Furniture Clinic for my coral red seats and their dye is just a bit lighter, definitely not a 100% match.Thanks
Yes the match is 100% perfect to my eye - I sent my interior code with the order ("Nappa/elfenbein-weiss" - LZEW) and they sent out the products without any further contact. I think coats is the key factor here really, as even after applying 5 or 6 the largest of the scuff marks on the bolster was still visible underneath, but eventually it got fainter and just blended away. May be worth sticking some more red coats on your bolster and seeing if the slight light shade darkens down a bit further?
If you can get delivery to Spain for a reasonable rate, it's not a huge amount of money to have a toy around with as an altnerative product is another way of looking at it.
Yes the match is 100% perfect to my eye - I sent my interior code with the order ("Nappa/elfenbein-weiss" - LZEW) and they sent out the products without any further contact. I think coats is the key factor here really, as even after applying 5 or 6 the largest of the scuff marks on the bolster was still visible underneath, but eventually it got fainter and just blended away. May be worth sticking some more red coats on your bolster and seeing if the slight light shade darkens down a bit further?
If you can get delivery to Spain for a reasonable rate, it's not a huge amount of money to have a toy around with as an altnerative product is another way of looking at it.
One other thing I forgot to mention, I was messing around with Carly a couple of weeks ago, trying - unsuccessfully - to change the warning bongs to make the Rolls Royce sound rather than BMW (only supported on later models - boo) and noticed the option to reset adaptations on the auto box so it will 'relearn' my driving style and habits.
Happy to report it has cured the previously jerky gear change in sport mode, no noticeable difference in normal mode though have only travelled a few miles so far - changing the transmission fluid still on the to-do list however.
Happy to report it has cured the previously jerky gear change in sport mode, no noticeable difference in normal mode though have only travelled a few miles so far - changing the transmission fluid still on the to-do list however.
Yes I noticed that too, you have to apply multiple coats to get good coverage, I think I must have applied about 8 to 10 coats on the worst areas but it seems the colour difference was getting more noticeable the more coats I put on! I think for what it's worth I might get a bottle of the dye you used and try on top hopefully it will work and be a much better match.
Interesting what you mentioned about the auto gearbox adaptations, I wonder if Carista has that setting too. I too find the response / changes in sport mode a bit jerky and or not really very smooth.
Interesting what you mentioned about the auto gearbox adaptations, I wonder if Carista has that setting too. I too find the response / changes in sport mode a bit jerky and or not really very smooth.