Machine monkeys zed

Machine monkey said:
It might be cheaper than the S/C????? :o

I'm not convinced about that.. especially if you're intending to strip and rebuild it before installing....
Doesn't the switch to the s54 require swapping out most of the ecus?
 
Tell me about it Luke :cry: Got it apart i hope i can get it all back together.

Making progress though. Been to the hospital for a check up on skin thing from last yer and all is good :thumbsup: Got the 4 main bushes out and most of the rust of the diff carrier ready for painting tonight. Not bad for a coffee break :) Also checked the back lash in the diff 0.05mm i am going to get a guy hear to double check that at lunch.
 
Machine monkey said:
:headbang: Stupid boy i am i have 0.1mm of back lash in my diff!! Still ok though that :thumbsup:

I get more than that from her indoors! :P

Can you explain exactly what back lash is? I know it's bad to have too much, but I've never really understood that bit of the whole LSD equation?
 
Ok so you have loads of gears what you looking for is the play betwine them. In this case betwine the helical gear on the input shaft and the gear ring that's on the diff. If there was no clearance on the gears they could not turn and oil couldn't get in there to lubricate them. So small amount of play is not only good but essential.

I am measuring it before i take it all apart to make sure i have the same or similar when i reinstall the new LSD. As the old gear ring is removed from the open diff and put on to the LSD.

Is that ok? I can try and answer questions but i am no expert. And as it was pointed out to me the other day on hear.... My grasp of the English language is not that great either..
 
I think it makes sense.. so backlash is the spacing between the gears.
You want some, but not too much.. and you're trying to replicate that same spacing between the new and old diff?
 
sk93 said:
Machine monkey said:
It might be cheaper than the S/C????? :o

I'm not convinced about that.. especially if you're intending to strip and rebuild it before installing....
Doesn't the switch to the s54 require swapping out most of the ecus?

If I were doing it, I'd just find an E46 M3 that was running when it was wrecked. If the engine was in running shape, I don't see a reason to strip and rebuilt it (these blasted BMW engines go for 100s of thousands of miles).

Just pull the entire engine and harness (including ECU) and use that for the swap. I've seen that setup posted on boards for ~$3000-$3500 here in the US. I have no proof, but I would THINK that the ECUs are the same physically, just the tune is different. A good shop should be able to re-flash everything in the car to think it's in an Z4M.
 
Machine monkey said:
I am measuring it before i take it all apart to make sure i have the same or similar when i reinstall the new LSD. As the old gear ring is removed from the open diff and put on to the LSD.

In addition to backlash, also check the wear pattern on the ring gear.

Before you disassemble the ring gear/pinion, clean the gears really well. Then take some white or yellow paint (because they are bright) and paint 2 or 3 teeth on the ring gear (fully coat them but not dripping off). Now turn the gears through a couple complete revolutions (until the paint distributes around the gear set. You will notice that the pinion does not actually touch the entire tooth of the ring gear (only about 1/3 to 1/2 of a tooth). This is the contact patch (wear pattern) and you need to make sure that it remains (nearly... +/-) the same on assembly. It SHOULDN'T change if you don't mess with the pinion gear, but it's worth checking regardless.
 
v8z4 said:
sk93 said:
Machine monkey said:
It might be cheaper than the S/C????? :o

I'm not convinced about that.. especially if you're intending to strip and rebuild it before installing....
Doesn't the switch to the s54 require swapping out most of the ecus?

If I were doing it, I'd just find an E46 M3 that was running when it was wrecked. If the engine was in running shape, I don't see a reason to strip and rebuilt it (these blasted BMW engines go for 100s of thousands of miles).

Just pull the entire engine and harness (including ECU) and use that for the swap. I've seen that setup posted on boards for ~$3000-$3500 here in the US. I have no proof, but I would THINK that the ECUs are the same physically, just the tune is different. A good shop should be able to re-flash everything in the car to think it's in an Z4M.

I think I will be enjoying the car hopefully for the rest of this year once this is done! Then a few cometic mods to the interior the seats mostly. Maybe do something over the winter this year or next. Or sell and just get an M!!
 
v8z4 said:
Machine monkey said:
I am measuring it before i take it all apart to make sure i have the same or similar when i reinstall the new LSD. As the old gear ring is removed from the open diff and put on to the LSD.

In addition to backlash, also check the wear pattern on the ring gear.

Before you disassemble the ring gear/pinion, clean the gears really well. Then take some white or yellow paint (because they are bright) and paint 2 or 3 teeth on the ring gear (fully coat them but not dripping off). Now turn the gears through a couple complete revolutions (until the paint distributes around the gear set. You will notice that the pinion does not actually touch the entire tooth of the ring gear (only about 1/3 to 1/2 of a tooth). This is the contact patch (wear pattern) and you need to make sure that it remains (nearly... +/-) the same on assembly. It SHOULDN'T change if you don't mess with the pinion gear, but it's worth checking regardless.

Very helpful and good advice will do tomorrow :thumbsup:
 
Machine monkey said:
I think I will be enjoying the car hopefully for the rest of this year once this is done! Then a few cometic mods to the interior the seats mostly. Maybe do something over the winter this year or next. Or sell and just get an M!!

Just getting an M isn't a bad option either, depending on how much money and time you have in the current vehicle. Upside is you have a good car that you are "happy with" (ie: everything works), vs getting a used vehicle (ie: no telling what issues it has).
 
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