Karbonius Race Airbox
- Thread starter GT Spec
- Start date
I did see the thermal kit, but looks pretty ugly I think. My thoughts are that the air is moving pretty quickly so once moving the air shouldn’t be heat impacted.
I’ve spent tonight making a bracket to hold the relocated dip stick. I made a cardboard template first to work out the angles. Once the airbox is in it will sit under the bracket, not on top in the photos. It will bolt onto the thread of the bobbin which is screwed into the airbox.
I’ve spent tonight making a bracket to hold the relocated dip stick. I made a cardboard template first to work out the angles. Once the airbox is in it will sit under the bracket, not on top in the photos. It will bolt onto the thread of the bobbin which is screwed into the airbox.
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Still debating who to use for the remap to Alpha N. I prefer a company with specific experience, and a physical site in the UK with a rolling Road.
That rules out Severn as its over the internet, they are also the more expensive. https://www.severntuning.com/collec...ally-aspirated-alpha-n?variant=39660621267077
A Reeve Performance are an option https://arperformance.co.uk/product...lt-in-air-snorkel-and-smaller-inlet-diameter/
Has anyone used TRS - https://www.trsperformance.co.uk/product-page/bmw-z4-m-s54-tuning
Any other options to consider?
thanks
ps. more build photos to come in the coming days.
That rules out Severn as its over the internet, they are also the more expensive. https://www.severntuning.com/collec...ally-aspirated-alpha-n?variant=39660621267077
A Reeve Performance are an option https://arperformance.co.uk/product...lt-in-air-snorkel-and-smaller-inlet-diameter/
Has anyone used TRS - https://www.trsperformance.co.uk/product-page/bmw-z4-m-s54-tuning
Any other options to consider?
thanks
ps. more build photos to come in the coming days.
Justino said:
Clever idea, but I think this will interfere with the mounting of the box to that bracket on the engine. there are two rubber studs that thread to the airbox, then to the c opening on the engine bracket with a nut. you do not want the box to seat on the bracket without the rubber studs or will end up cracking something.
maupineda said:
The bracket will sit beneath the air box 'C' shaped mount when fitted - my photos show the production process/test fitting, the nut and bolt was just to replicate the airbox fitting. The rubber studs/bobbin will fix as normal, they have sufficient thread for the bracket to fit to then held on by the same nut that holds the airbox on.
pokeybritches
Member
Justino said:
Severn will tune at any rolling road of your choice, and it’s included but not required for the tune. Regardless of who you work with, make sure you choose someone that performs data logging. It’s critical for alpha-n.
Josh - not knocking you as the various write ups demonstrate how good you are - what I am concerned about is writing to the DME and bricking it, I don't have a 50amp PSU or whatever is recommended. I do have a server psu, but I have yet to get round to modifying it.
The one stop shop appeals as I'd expect them to have the correct PSU for mapping, and I can get it all done in one day.
The one stop shop appeals as I'd expect them to have the correct PSU for mapping, and I can get it all done in one day.
Milestone reached tonight with main airbox on, and all hose clips secured.
These were invaluable in doing the clips back up, definite knack required, but these get them to clip back up - listed on the Pelican tutorial - fig 13 and 14
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techar...EL-S54_Engine_Intake_Manifold_Replacement.htm
Dip stick bracket secured
One issue though is this clip is rubbing on the bottom of the airbox - holds a conduit above the starter motor. Its now difficult to access with the airbox in situ. Anyone else had this issue or found a solution? Without the clip, the conduit wouldn't rub, but then I wonder if it would have too much movement possible?
These were invaluable in doing the clips back up, definite knack required, but these get them to clip back up - listed on the Pelican tutorial - fig 13 and 14
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techar...EL-S54_Engine_Intake_Manifold_Replacement.htm
Dip stick bracket secured
One issue though is this clip is rubbing on the bottom of the airbox - holds a conduit above the starter motor. Its now difficult to access with the airbox in situ. Anyone else had this issue or found a solution? Without the clip, the conduit wouldn't rub, but then I wonder if it would have too much movement possible?
OK - hope anyone is still following!
Today I trimmed the mouth on the intake - used a Dremel thin cutting wheel, and then sanded. I may trim a little more as it is still tight against the front end. This was work in progress, I sanded back to the edge of the black line, and feathered the curve into the uncut part.
All in and car started
Then an issue - the car would start, I could rev it once, but then not again, it would just tickover. Only fault code on INPA after a clear of historic faults was no MAF reading.
In the end I plugged the MAF back in, and after a couple of coughs, it would rev. This is strange as I am pretty sure I had the car revving with the intake fully off, and nothing plugged in??
Today I trimmed the mouth on the intake - used a Dremel thin cutting wheel, and then sanded. I may trim a little more as it is still tight against the front end. This was work in progress, I sanded back to the edge of the black line, and feathered the curve into the uncut part.
All in and car started
Then an issue - the car would start, I could rev it once, but then not again, it would just tickover. Only fault code on INPA after a clear of historic faults was no MAF reading.
In the end I plugged the MAF back in, and after a couple of coughs, it would rev. This is strange as I am pretty sure I had the car revving with the intake fully off, and nothing plugged in??
Strange, I was under the assumption that without a MAF signal the car would run in a kind of limp mode setting-shouldn’t change its ability to rev though I could see that it might limit revs.
All sensors plugged in? TPS, anything under the airbox? None of the hoses kinked? I had a panic once when I’d had it all apart and forgotten to plug something in and it wouldn’t run/rev right.
All sensors plugged in? TPS, anything under the airbox? None of the hoses kinked? I had a panic once when I’d had it all apart and forgotten to plug something in and it wouldn’t run/rev right.
That was my understanding also. This is what is bugging me now, but it revs fine with the MAF plugged in, once its realises it must be dodgy data as it is showing no air flow, just temperature. No other fault codes apart from the MAF when it wouldn't rev.
Pretty sure everything else is plugged in.
Bit of googling suggesting could be throttle position sensor. If that is at fault the car looks to the MAF for a signal, but I am guessing.
Only positive is that can be swapped without taking the airbox off, but pricy at £100+ for OEM
Edit - there are 2 others underneath the plenum!!
Only positive is that can be swapped without taking the airbox off, but pricy at £100+ for OEM
Edit - there are 2 others underneath the plenum!!
Justino said:
No, just one. The 3rd is in the throttle pedal itself.
You're quite right in that the car should run 'fine' with the maf disconnected.
Try swapping the engine tps', or at least check the lower one.
If you're not too fussy it might be worth using the M5 airbox clips which are a jubilee type rather than the oe m3 ones which are a bit of a pain. Might not be the last time it's off
part#07129952125
You'd normally expect a fault code with a tps though it must be said, but worth a try looking at them. Good luck, sure it's something simple.
Thanks Tom, I am OK with the clips now - they get easier with practise, just not relishing the dismantle having just got it together.
I have just had a look at the TPS on the front of the engine - one of the screws isn't budging, so that's another headache, will need cutting off, and destroying the TPS in the process. I may get an OE aftermarket one as these are circa 1/3rd the cost
I have just had a look at the TPS on the front of the engine - one of the screws isn't budging, so that's another headache, will need cutting off, and destroying the TPS in the process. I may get an OE aftermarket one as these are circa 1/3rd the cost
pokeybritches
Member
Before you throw parts at it, data log the voltages of the sensors. If you’re still on the OEM tune but without a MAF, the engine won’t rev if the brake pedal is activated. IAT is important too. Without it, the ECU will revert to a default value which will impact fueling. What are your STFT and LTFT?
pokeybritches said:
Josh - I think you are a life saver. I am also refurbing the calipers, and have them removed. To stop losing the brake fluid I have the brake pedal locked down. That is new motivation to get those and the new hoses on in the next couple of days so I can release the brake pedal.
I'll be in touch about the tune, I am being converted!
PS what is STFT and LTFT?
I haven't done any data logging before. I have Inpa and Ista - presume i can use one of those?
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