DSC/ABS "delete"?

I'm guessing it would be expensive to retrofit an M steering system to your car, but then it sounds like you are "all in" and cost isn't the issue

Can't help on the speed sensor thing but the wiring diagrams for the care are available online if you look. On the iPad so can't simultaneously search but I'm sure someone will come along with a link shortly

Good luck with the mods and stay safe!


Tapatalking...
 
The most helpfull suggestion I can make is that you send our Forum Tech - "Shipkiller" a PM and hope he responds :thumbsup:

Shipkiller hadnt posted for a long time, but I did notice he was back and posted only a few days ago
 
Stuart Truman said:
I'm guessing it would be expensive to retrofit an M steering system to your car, but then it sounds like you are "all in" and cost isn't the issue

I have seen a few e46 owners swap in the Z4M rack and it shows to be a near 100A% direct swap (only difference being the steering wheel shaft lengths). Since the non-M Z4 looks to be able to use all of the e46 front suspension, it stands to reason that the Z4M rack will be a direct swap onto the non-M Z. Trick will be finding a wrecked/parted Z4M as the rack is $1500 new from BMW (sadly cost is an issue.... in that paying bills slows things up....).


Adamski said:
The most helpfull suggestion I can make is that you send our Forum Tech - "Shipkiller" a PM and hope he responds :thumbsup:

Shipkiller hadnt posted for a long time, but I did notice he was back and posted only a few days ago


Thanks, I'll give that a shot.

I have looked through the online wiring but so many of the diagrams are overly simplified to the point it's hard to tell if everything is shown. The diagrams show the wheel sensors feeding into the DSC module, which would certainly explain why "killing" the DSC (fuse pull) killed the speed signal. However, I was surprised by this as I would have thought the gauge cluster would have received a separate vehicle speed signal and calculated speed off this. So looking for someone who would have a little more experience with the wiring/systems of these cars (I have always been one to prefer understanding HOW and WHY a vehicle is wired as it is before I go blinding chopping).

Thanks,
Chris
 
DSC and ABS is generally the same module (not looked on the Z4 but it's how it is on other cars).

It's easy to use that ABS signal to get the speed signal for the gauges. As it is something that already exists there is no point in replicating the system/sensors/wiring to get a dedicated speed signal.
This is how it works on most cars nowadays.
 
Finisterre said:
The OP baffles me.
Why buy a Zed if you are going to turn it into a Model-T?
Maybe you should sell it and get something else, a Westfield maybe.
A TVR would suit, I reckon.

Gotta say V8Z4, I think your plans are daft.

Yep, my point exactly! :evil:
 
Thought I'd toss this up:

I have had my ABS and traction control "off" for several months now. I accomplished this by pulling Fuse #42, killing power to the ABS pump but not the ABS controller. This was important to keep the speed calculation of the ABS controller as it serves as the VSS.

At this point you will have the following lights on:
- Brake (the same one used for E-brake)
- ABS
- tire monitoring
- DTC
- pad wear lights

Next I used BMW Scanner 1.4.0 to access the gauge cluster options and turn off anything related to ABS/Traction Control/Tire Monitoring/etc., which really only gets rid of the brake error lighting up the E-brake light.

This leaves you with the following lights on:
- ABS
- tire monitoring
- DTC
- pad wear lights

Now, take the gauge cluster apart (plastic only...no need to take the needles off). Carefully pull the "face" up (I use my finger nail) and put a piece of black electrical tap over the back side of the indicator "window" so the light can not shine through.

Put everything back together and you are done.

No more ABS
No more Traction Control
No more DSC
No more tire monitoring

It's all up to the drive now.....

Now IF you go this far, you really should bypass the ABS block. Leaving the ABS in place leaves the reduced feedback/pedal feel of an ABS system without the benefits of ABS (so all bad and no good).

Remember! Remove the pump and housing ONLY! Again, you need the ABS "brains" to calculate speed.

I made an aluminum block which basically is the ABS port block without the pump on it. This allowed me to avoid bending/re-flaring lines and kept the ABS controller mounted/sealed.


Chris

P.S. No flaming/whining about how I'm going to kill anyone.....
 
Turn off have fun learn about the car,find it's limits,drive by the seat of your pants, We had none of these years ago, Healeys,e-types,240z. all big power no abs,dsc. You just lernt to drive um. Off for me. :poke: :driving:
 
50:50 on this 1

if its got it then why not use it, on the other hand you should be able to turn it all off and still control your car
 
v8z4 said:
I have had my ABS and traction control "off" for several months now.
Well done for your perseverance!

How do you find the driving experience with all the cotton wool turned off? What's it like on wet roads and poor surfaces? Any problems passing whatever your equivalent of the MoT test is?
 
Since you can switch most of this stuff off anyway by pressing a button (other than ABS - and why would you want to) ... all this sounds a bit like his DSC board blew up, and didn't want to fix it :poke:
 
Adamski said:
So its all off and no lights? 10/10 for trying :thumbsup:

Well as I said, the lights are actually "on" however they are not visible (covered....same as pulling the bulb). With the fuse pulled, the ABS controller is throwing a "failed unit" code however it does not really bother me. If I can't see the lights, they are off.

ZedFourM said:
v8z4 said:
I have had my ABS and traction control "off" for several months now.
Well done for your perseverance!

How do you find the driving experience with all the cotton wool turned off? What's it like on wet roads and poor surfaces? Any problems passing whatever your equivalent of the MoT test is?

Don't have a MoT test here. Some states do have a "safety inspection" (AZ does not), however it is little more than "pay the tax and go" (no actual TESTING of anything).

I have always preferred non-ABS feel, this car being no exception.

While it almost NEVER rains here :tumbleweed: , as luck would have it the last club drive actually ran into a huge rain storm in the mountains. Just used good judgement, didn't push as hard in corners, gave myself extra room behind the lead car (didn't try to draft on him ;) ), and overall used my brain to ensure I would not get into a situation that would even use the ABS function.

As I said in my post, I got a 1.5" thick (38mm for you metric people :P ) block of aluminum, drilled and taped the in and out ports corresponding to the original ABS block, and mounted the controller to the block as well. Then the whole "unit" when back into the factory bracket in the stock location. Made for a nice easy install. When I pull the engine, I will shorten and re-flare the lines to clean up further.
 
krusty said:
Since you can switch most of this stuff off anyway by pressing a button (other than ABS - and why would you want to) ... all this sounds a bit like his DSC board blew up, and didn't want to fix it :poke:

Yet another perfectly good reason to delete :slappy: :P
 
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