Atacama Yellow 35is build thread

The journey back begins…re-covered dash goes back in…Bondarised plastic lugs hold up…after forgetting some key cables for the centre speaker necessitating a removal and re-fit the dash is home and secured ..only got to put everything else back now..

Very hard work trying to get the new leather with 3mm foam to fit in and around the various orifices..very glad I used a professional rather than trying my luck..

Put lots of sticky backer felt tape to deaden the rattle of plastics..
 

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The instrument cluster binnacle was re-covered as part of the dash..but the leather /foam made it impossible to refit the oiter cover of the unit to the inner part of the structure..lots of clamps required..
 

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The journey continues..I revisited the bond(ar)ing of the c/f fronts to the various switches..I used a hot glue gun and with the clamping force and flex they were starting to separate ..this time it’s epoxy resin..and clamps..the mother f@€kers shouldn’t move this time..

Next in line was the fitment of the ID4Motion cluster to the removed instrument binnacle…the problem (among many) is that the novel construction of the adapter results in about 3-5mm float / jiggle between the body of the cluster and the binnacle…so resorted to a bit of silicone mastic and yet again some trusty clamps..

Dash now fitted..I thought I’d lost the starter cable so took it out again..only to find it lying on the floor..

The A pillars were covered in leather..boy what a bitch to make them fit..I guess not surprising that if you keep adding material then it’s going to cause issues..

So yet more clamps required to hold A pillar covers in place whilst top windscreen trim put into place..now the self tapping holes that hold the sun visors in place are too loose..so have to order some fractionally thicker torx headed self tappers..

As an aside ..have you ever tried to balance a male headed torx bolt on its socket to try and start a difficult to reach bracket…ie the steering column brackets..it’s a bitch....

Despite all this I am enjoying this..I think..
 

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One day, perhaps in the distant future, you may actually get to drive the Yellow Peril and think, yes this is the car I want. Finished!
 
Car starting to come alive..bad news is that the CIC unit that powers the radio/sat nav etc is dying…I tried a fresh disc but no cigar..got a second user one to fit..

DSP/amp with MOST bridge powered up..no sound for sometime (ignoring the CIC unit only works for 15 seconds every 5 minutes)…but a firmware update to the remote controller and it burped into life..

Plenty of set up required but the audio sounded very meaty..
 

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Jollyjoiner said:
I'm glad someone knows what their doing , look at all those wires :P

Yup it’s never easy ..thank god the adapter harness got so far..
 
Hut man said:
Looks like its coming together now, brilliant thread Peter.

Yup the light at the end of the tunnel is the train coming towards you! :thumbsup: :tumbleweed: :rofl:
 
B21 said:
Hut man said:
Looks like its coming together now, brilliant thread Peter.

Yup the light at the end of the tunnel is the train coming towards you! :thumbsup: :tumbleweed: :rofl:
I thought the light at the end of the tunnel was just some bugger with a torch bringing more work
 
Nictrix said:
B21 said:
Hut man said:
Looks like its coming together now, brilliant thread Peter.

Yup the light at the end of the tunnel is the train coming towards you! :thumbsup: :tumbleweed: :rofl:
I thought the light at the end of the tunnel was just some bugger with a torch bringing more work

In my case both… :headbang:
 
The lads at Performance Centre were asking after you today when I took mine in for a service.

Told them you were doing something which I didn't understand and from the images, I don't
 
B21 IS the Reassembler!

Coming back together …rear cabin cinched up…

New c/f covered roll over hoops with nice leather fronts with themed yellow stitching..

Rear cam now mounted neatly …

Remounted spoiler..my god that 3M tape sticks ..I’ve got the rear slightly mounted off the line on the boot in the middle..looks like a custom diffuser gap…only visible to moles..
 

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john-e89 said:
How is the new digi dash screen coming along, did you get it to fit..?

https://youtu.be/opZ8f9He6XE?si=6tWnQY-snxdgJfe4

It’s a bit of video looking at a major issue with trying to remotely program the replacement CIC unit which is from a 2015 20i…there’s a long standing bus issue which is preventing that..the ID4 screen is briefly in shot..I’ve not done a proper video of it..had expected to button the dash up then report on it..that looks like a forlorn hope..

So briefly on the IDMotion display..

Good points
Breathtaking beautiful graphics..never seen anything as good
Good range of graphic versions, styles and colours
Very programmable to reflect most whims

Things to sort out but possible
Fitting is an absolute bitch..
It’s more glued than screwed so not easy to revisit / undo..if you do the mods to make it for neatly…

Open issues
Quite a few folks have had quite a few bugs which have taken time to resolve ..if ever

So would i recommend it?

No…a lot of money , a lot of pain, some possible long term issues

Not everything you try works as well as you’d have hoped for..

The story continues..
 

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The CIC unit..part of the iDrive system is the brains of the system whose trademark folding screen presesnts the data..the screen is just a screen, all the smarts happen in the big box, out of sight, the 'radio' you can see is the top part of the unit, like an iceberg most of it is hidden.

In E89s its the optiion 609A Navigation System Professional.

Inside the box there is an AM/FM tuner, optionally a DAB tuner, various interfaces to the rest of the car, the PDC system and the various audio related pre-amp for either the 676 Hi-FI off board amp or the 677 Top-Fi DSP/amp..both of which are in the boot.

The CIC communicates with the 676 amp via normal analogue wires, the 677 it speaks to it on a fibre optic ring called MOST.

Both versions have MOST o talk to the MULF /ULF /combox and things like an external CD if it had one.

The box with different face plates was fitted to most BMWs between 2008 ish and 2016 ish..

There's a hard drive in there which stores the maps, the Gracenote music database and optionally some music you choose to store on it.

I've written this note as my unit started to die..first of all, very occasionally, it would, after a damp / cold night outside, shut down 5 minutes or so after starting the car, then go into a cycle of rebooting after 5-10 minutes, run for 90 seconds, then shutdown,,,then repeat until after about an hour or so it would just run.

I had various pet theories about it..damp causing issues with fibre optic cables, laterly failing hard disc.

I cloned the hard disc onto a solid state drive and thought I had cured it...sadly a few days ago during my winter upgrade program the system started doing this process of rebooting endlessly..with no constant running..for the few seonds it was running the maps were much faster due to the SSD.

So I looked at options...

A new unit is £3,700..a BMW supplied exchange unit was around £1,800 ish plus a £2k deposit.

I looked at other options.

I decided to get a 2015 20i E89 write off one..plugged it in..good news..AM/FM/DAB/USB support all worked ..bad news no NAV and no sound..

In some ways not surprsing as it came from a 676 optioncar..you could see that in the tone controls as there was no entry for the equaliser.

The unit needs to be coded..BMW charge an extortionate fee..looked at Indys..selected a Polish guy to do it remotely.

For whatever reason, and we spent some time, he couldn't access the unit via ISTA/P..

Compunding this is the ID4 Motion digital cluster which doesn't play well and the Match 10 DSP amp with lots of MOST stuff..heh ho..

So now resigned to send both units off..one to be repaired, the other to be coded to the car.

Romamia or Poland are my options..
 

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B21 said:
.....
For whatever reason, and we spent some time, he couldn't access the unit via ISTA/P..
....

And I know why, the new version of the Mr12volt now connects via the Quadlock connector, and in so doing it prevents the CanBus signal from getting to ther headunit for coding etc. You need to, temporarily, remove this Y loom and just use the original car Quadlock (not forgetting to replace the MOST connector), then you'll be able to code the headunit :thumbsup:
 
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