Does it matter?
What grease for wheel nuts?
- Thread starter jamesgarbett
- Start date
Interesting - I had a slight feeling it might be none
Why is that out of interest?
Why is that out of interest?
You're a month early matey! 
:lol:
:lol:I've used a soupson, a whisper, a mere smidge of copper grease for years now on my (clean) wheel bolts after getting caught out with seized bolts previously. Also applies to sparkplugs.
I stopped torquing my wheel bolts in favour of gauging by feel that they're tight enough and checking tightness every other week.
5 bolts was a good idea from BMW and increases failure/loss mitigation if 1 or even 2 bolts become loose.
But this is one of those benefits/disbenefits choices which ultimately won't change how the world turns doing it one way or the other!
8)
I stopped torquing my wheel bolts in favour of gauging by feel that they're tight enough and checking tightness every other week.
5 bolts was a good idea from BMW and increases failure/loss mitigation if 1 or even 2 bolts become loose.
But this is one of those benefits/disbenefits choices which ultimately won't change how the world turns doing it one way or the other!
8)
Have to agree with the above that I for the last 15 plus years have always put a little copper grease on wheel bolts over all my cars in that time. Never had an issue. Also wouldn’t use a torque wrench and would prefer my own engineers hands to gauge the torque.
Each to there own though.
Each to there own though.
Spaldingski
Copper grease. It's been used since the dawn of time and "IS AS GOOD TODAY AS IT'S ALWAYS BEEN"
It's more pertinent now than ever; all to do with dissimilar metals and contact thereof.
Bolts are steel, wheels are alloy (god knows what these days).
If you use nothing your wheels won't fall off. But the bolts could sheer the next time you try to loosen them (unlikely but you asked).
It's more pertinent now than ever; all to do with dissimilar metals and contact thereof.
Bolts are steel, wheels are alloy (god knows what these days).
If you use nothing your wheels won't fall off. But the bolts could sheer the next time you try to loosen them (unlikely but you asked).
The consensus of opinion is for 120nm of torque on wheel nuts. I did it and found it just "felt" a little light, so went for 140. It just feels more secure! As long as the face of the wheel and disc is also lubed with aforesaid copper grease, otherwise you can't get the f*ckers off! 
Again the dissimilar metals scenario.
Again the dissimilar metals scenario.
Actually the dissimilar metals scenario (galvanic corrosion) has nothing to do with bolts seizing up in this casePondrew said:
Aluminium is by far the least noble metal here, so that acts as a sacrificial anode, if any of the metals here would do so (that's why aluminium rims are painted, nobody wants to see them rust)
The zinc plating on most metal parts is 2nd
Bolts seize up just because of plain rust (clearly the effect of the less noble sacrificial metals is not enough).
The bolts are zinc plated. First time use (in the factory), the zinc plating is still in tact, but if they are removed and reused, there will be spots where the zinc plating is damaged from first time used, so a little copper grease is indeed a good defense against seized bolts.
I've had cars from new that were factory fitted with copper grease on bolts and rim/hub contact patch (my volvo for example)
So I always use a bit of copper grease. I don't adjust my torque range. (so in theory I could be over torqing my bolts with about 8-10%).
I think using a torque wrench is important. Not per se on using the correct torque, but more on that all bolts are torqued the same, so that there is no dissimilar tension on the hub and wheel.
Ive always put a TINY bit of copper grease on the wheel bolt as well as a more generous dab on the hub
Never had wheel nut problems, greased or not. Have had locking nuts stuck, though.
Presumably because the adaptor failed. As a result of galvanic corrosion, poor design, whatever, I don't know. (I don't take wheels off cars. That's what the AA and garages are for.)
I do know that the last failure cost me £100+ to remove two stuck locking nuts and for a new set and an adaptor. So, am thinking of abandoning locking nuts altogether and going without.
Presumably because the adaptor failed. As a result of galvanic corrosion, poor design, whatever, I don't know. (I don't take wheels off cars. That's what the AA and garages are for.)
I do know that the last failure cost me £100+ to remove two stuck locking nuts and for a new set and an adaptor. So, am thinking of abandoning locking nuts altogether and going without.
