Starter motor?

[Mos6689]

Hey all,

So my ZM E86, after 2 hrs of driving today, decided it didn’t want to start. Not turning over at all. Turned the key and one click but then nothing. Called AA and went for a walk. Came back half hour later with a friend who’s mechanically minded to see if he could help and it started first time! Then drive the car to work and turn it off and tried to start again to see if the problem was still there and again nothing just one click. Mate said he thought starter motor was on its way out because there doesn’t appear to be any sort of battery problem. No lights flickering or dimming & he said if there was it should at least turn over in a weak manor.

Reading on here and it seems to be either the starter motor or ignition switch. Any ideas? Any tests I can run? Does the knocking thing actually ascertain whether it’s on its way out when the problem arises if it starts after a couple of bangs? Also where do I bang?

Also who manufacturers the oem starter motors? ECP only do a brand called Lucas who I’ve never heard of & I don’t want to skimp on my Z.

Thanks in advance for anyone who can shed some light on this issue, driving me nuts. First problem the Z has ever given me.

 

[pvr]

Don’t rule the battery out though. On my first Z the battery did the same, all looked fine etc. The starter draws so much power that the battery could only click the solenoid

 

[Mos6689]

Thanks PVR I’ll connect up a volt meter to it tomorrow and see what it’s doing because to be fair I rarely drive the car, so could very well be. Almost hope it is because that’ll be so much simpler to solve.

 

[smorris_12]

If the starter solenoid goes clunk and the headlights don't dim then it's the solenoid sticking. Remove, clean, reinstall.

If the solenoid doesn't go clunk then it's the ignition switch (or starter relay if there is one.)

 

[colb]

They seem to be prone to the starter motor failing without any advance warning, mine did it. Put on a replacement from Carparts4less, RTX brand as far as I remember. Very easy swap out on the E85.
Just double check the condition of your battery and its connections are clean and tight, same for the starter motor connections.
Always cross check prices between Eurocarparts and Carparts4less, they are the same company but 4less only trades online and are usually cheaper that Euro.

 

[j3nks79]

Don’t put an RTX unit on. Very poor quality parts.
Lucas of Bosch etc is what you want

 

[Mos6689]

Ok so starting all well today. Tested battery & seems fine. Reading 12.2v before starting & dips to 11v during starting. Than above 14 when running.

If the starter solenoid goes clunk and the headlights don't dim then it's the solenoid sticking. Remove, clean, reinstall.

If the solenoid doesn't go clunk then it's the ignition switch (or starter relay if there is one.)

I’ve taken out the starter now because this sounds like my issue. I can hear the clunk. What do I do now to clean it? Is it a case of opening up or just cleaning contacts with some wf40?

 

[j3nks79]

If you have some jump cables and a battery you can test the starter on the bench.
Ideally you want to take it apart and clean the solenoid re grease and put it back together. Then you can test it again before you re fit it

 

[smorris_12]

The solenoid needs to be as low friction as possible so avoid grease. Clean thoroughly and a thin wipe over with some WD40 is best. Test as said and, if it still doesn't spin, have a shufti at the main contacts in case they've burnt up preventing power getting to the motor.

 

[Monster666]

I had a similar problem a couple of years ago - went down the battery rabbit hole too many times as sometimes it started and other times it wouldn't turn over.

West Lancs Auto Electrics were recommended to me from the forum - new starter cost £149 delivered. Not had a problem since.

 

[Mos6689]

Thanks everyone. So the starter spins with a bit of friction. Didn’t have a spare battery to test it with but it’s working fine at the moment.

Cleaned up as much as I could but couldn’t get the black housing off to save my life. It’s riveted on and I made a mistake by pulling off the top & having to put the power cables back in place with the spring & metal contacts, which took ages. Anyway I’ve cleaned up all contacts, cleaned up the teeth & put it back in. Didn’t take long at all, just fidgety because I didn’t remove the intake or air box.

I’m going to take it for a long drive now and see if the problem comes back or not. I’m resigned to buying a new starter & may as well whilst they’re still easily available. Found an OE one here (https://www.startermotor-alternator-store.co.uk/bmw-z3-32--z4m-starter-motor-x28s2291x29-1108-p.asp) for £185 which I can’t complain with. Valeo is OE manufacturer for our starter motors in case anyone needs the info in future.

 

[Wassup]

The starter motor is the same as the E46 m3 and Valeo is OEM,0 that seems like a reasonable price.

 

[pvr]

That was a very rapid in and out job

 

[Mos6689]

So took her for a drive for an hour or so. Parked up in a multi storey 40 miles from home and went for something to eat. Came back and dead!

Managed to jump it down a couple of ramps while crapping myself because I had no power steering. Got home & going to order a new starter in the morning.

So anyone coming across this thread in the future, don’t bother trying the clean unless you’re 100% clear on how to strip the starter down & clean it thoroughly. Even then, from what I’ve read, you’ll only be prolonging the inevitable because of the age of the car now. Just save the headache & order a new one.

Taking it out is a daunting & fidgety job because of the lack of space to work with (if you don’t want to remove the intake & air box) but it is literally 2 bolts to get the starter off. Then another 2 nuts to remove the wiring. 1hr job for removal & reinstallation & that’s because it was my first time. It really is surprisingly simple. Obviously don’t forget to disconnect the battery before you start & reconnect once finished.

Hopefully this sorts the issue. If not I’ll be looking at the ignition switch next.