SOLVED: Warning lights - please help!

[David]

Problem solved, read here:
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=101414&p=1483151&hilit=Solved#p1483151

Hi All,

I’m hoping someone has experienced this before and can offer some advice.

I’ve just reassembled the car after having the manifold out, replacing the secondary DISA, CVV and stripping/cleaning the starter motor. The repair was spread over period of 2 weeks, so battery was disconnected for a while.

I went to start the car after reassembly and it began revving on its own, and the accelerator pedal was non-responsive - I went and checked and of course I’d forgot to reconnect the throttle body connector!

Went to start the engine again and on top of the car turning over a long time before firing up, I had these three lights show up:


- Power steering (EPS), ABS, Traction and tyre warning.

Did some research and it was suggested that a weak battery can cause these to fail, so plugged in my CTEK battery reconditioned overnight. Tried again this morning and I still have the same problem.

What I’m puzzled about is that I wasn’t working anywhere near the areas that are throwing out warnings.

Does anyone know what has happened? Have I tripped something from not reconnecting the throttle body or leaving the battery disconnected for too long?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
David

 

[David]

About to scan for codes using INPA

 

[Smartbear]

About to scan for codes using INPA

How old is your battery?
Rob

 

[David]

About to scan for codes using INPA

How old is your battery?
Rob

Thanks for responding Rob!

Couldn’t tell you - at least a year and a half old though (hasn’t been replaced since I took ownership). Never skipped a beat before.

 

[ph001]

Can you reset them? Clear them and see if they reappear with a fully charged battery.

 

[David]

Can you reset them? Clear them and see if they reappear with a fully charged battery.

Hi ph001,

I’ll try that as soon as the computer is done with the bloody updates!

Problem is, I’ve actually got no power steering, it’s not just the light.

 

[David]

Error codes thrown out:

EPS - 6121 vehicle engine speed

ABS - 5E1A Engine Management: interface

DME (engine) - 2A94 - crankshaft sensor, signal

Here’s a vid of what the car does on startup:

https://youtu.be/Y0LINy5LG4Q

Still, any help appreciated!

 

[mac27040]

Where are you as someone with software could reset it

 

[Ducklakeview]

Have you actually tried to drive it down the road since the lights came on?

Mike

 

[David]

Where are you as someone with software could reset it

I have reset them already today, and those codes come back. Appreciate the thought though!

Have you actually tried to drive it down the road since the lights came on?

Mike

I had 20mins today to scan for those codes, and not a sniff more. Tomorrow I’ll have the chance to take it out for a spin.

The error seems to be occurring before the engine has even started.

I’ve found a video on YouTube that explains the following:



Can someone explain to me what the ‘30G relay’ does?

David

 

[srhutch]

Have you cycled the ignition at least three times. If it’s due to the battery it will take 3-4 cycles of the ignition (complete firing of the engine) to clear the lights.

 

[David]

Have you cycled the ignition at least three times. If it’s due to the battery it will take 3-4 cycles of the ignition (complete firing of the engine) to clear the lights.

Yes, no change though - takes the same length of time to fire up every time, as seen in the video.

A member on another forum has suggested that perhaps I’ve knocked/dislodged the crankshaft sensor connector.

 

[Ducklakeview]

It may take a drive to reset the abs and traction control as the system needs to receive and compare inputs from the wheel sensors, steering angle sensor, throttle position sensor and lateral yaw sensors all at once in order to "get it's bearings" so to speak..

Mike

 

[MACK]

It may take a drive to reset the abs and traction control as the system needs to receive and compare inputs from the wheel sensors, steering angle sensor, throttle position sensor and lateral yaw sensors all at once in order to "get it's bearings" so to speak..

Mike

+1 get out and drive it. It's normal to have a lot of lights on after a battery disconnect. Take it for a short spin and see what happens, if you still have any lights on then you have a genuine issue to tackle. At the moment you maybe trying to diagnose faults that aren't actually there so to speak.
The Rev up and down sounds like the throttle body doing it's reset procedure after a disconnect to that should be nothing to worry about either.
If after a half a mile of driving everything is not ok then I think it's time to worry

 

[David]

Thanks gents, taking it to the shops via a couple of laps of the neighbourhood followed by an A-road shortly.

Will report back my findings :wink:

David

 

[Yorkie Z]

Seems to me that you've probably knocked a connection if you haven't got power steering.

 

[David]

It may take a drive to reset the abs and traction control as the system needs to receive and compare inputs from the wheel sensors, steering angle sensor, throttle position sensor and lateral yaw sensors all at once in order to "get it's bearings" so to speak..

Mike

+1 get out and drive it. It's normal to have a lot of lights on after a battery disconnect. Take it for a short spin and see what happens, if you still have any lights on then you have a genuine issue to tackle. At the moment you maybe trying to diagnose faults that aren't actually there so to speak.
The Rev up and down sounds like the throttle body doing it's reset procedure after a disconnect to that should be nothing to worry about either.
If after a half a mile of driving everything is not ok then I think it's time to worry

Just got back from a varied drive, where I started and stopped the engine at least twice. Warning symbols are all still present.

Had the battery checked at Halfords while out and it tested as good.

David

 

[MACK]

It may take a drive to reset the abs and traction control as the system needs to receive and compare inputs from the wheel sensors, steering angle sensor, throttle position sensor and lateral yaw sensors all at once in order to "get it's bearings" so to speak..

Mike

+1 get out and drive it. It's normal to have a lot of lights on after a battery disconnect. Take it for a short spin and see what happens, if you still have any lights on then you have a genuine issue to tackle. At the moment you maybe trying to diagnose faults that aren't actually there so to speak.
The Rev up and down sounds like the throttle body doing it's reset procedure after a disconnect to that should be nothing to worry about either.
If after a half a mile of driving everything is not ok then I think it's time to worry

Just got back from a varied drive, where I started and stopped the engine at least twice. Warning symbols are all still present.

Had the battery checked at Halfords while out and it tested as good.

David

I would get under the bonnet and double check you haven't forgotten to reconnect something or accidently dislodged something. Also check everything you had apart is properly reconnected. It's possible something has failed/seized during the 2 weeks down time you had but its more likely its something you disturbed. I would then disconnect the battery for 20-30 minutes and reconnect and see what happens. It's puzzling to think why you would have upset anything on the eps as the jobs you did are all under the bonnet and not near the column. Now the cars had a run and the battery is definitely currently well charged hopefully the eps will return if it's a voltage issue. You will still have the traction control lights etc until the cars driven but the eps should be active from start up.

 

[David]

I would get under the bonnet and double check you haven't forgotten to reconnect something or accidently dislodged something. Also check everything you had apart is properly reconnected. It's possible something has failed/seized during the 2 weeks down time you had but its more likely its something you disturbed. I would then disconnect the battery for 20-30 minutes and reconnect and see what happens. It's puzzling to think why you would have upset anything on the eps as the jobs you did are all under the bonnet and not near the column. Now the cars had a run and the battery is definitely currently well charged hopefully the eps will return if it's a voltage issue. You will still have the traction control lights etc until the cars driven but the eps should be active from start up.

I think you’re right, and it’s most likely the crankshaft sensor, and its connector has been dislodged. I am 99.9% certain that everything I had to unplug was reconnected correctly.

I think the crankshaft sensor connector being dislodged is causing the engine not to fire up initially, then the 30g relay is being tripped so the engine can fire up. Subsequently, the delay of the engine starting is causing the EPS and DSC to think they’re not getting the power needed.

Have another look at the video I posted earlier, you’ll see the warning lights all come on before the engine fires up.

 

[David]

SOLVED!!!

This morning, before I attempted jacking the car up, I tried going in blind and reaching my hand under the starter motor from above the engine.

I felt around a bit (hello sailor!) and found what I thought must’ve been the crankshaft sensor connector. Gave it the lightest of pulls and it fell out of place, without any resistance.

Plugged the connector back in, and gave it another tug (ooh aah!) and it did not budge.

Turned the key, and hey presto, the car started on the button, without any warning lights, and with power steering back.

A big thank you to everyone that helped, for their guidance and advice.

...How much do you reckon a mechanic would have charged me by the time they solved that one? :-o

Celebratory test drive time I think! :driving:

David