Reviving a Neglected Z4MR
- Thread starter 0l0dom0l0
- Start date
North West Surrey
I had that same realisation the first time I had an unaccompanied drive in an M - I just knew I had to have one in my life and more than 6 years later it still feels special every drive.
You've improved it plenty already - if you carry on like that it's going to become one of the most pampered MRs around!
When I test-drove mine, the salesman had a slightly different revelation as I ran it up to 8,000rpm on motorway slip road!I had that same realisation the first time I had an unaccompanied drive in an M - I just knew I had to have one in my life and more than 6 years later it still feels special every drive.
You've improved it plenty already - if you carry on like that it's going to become one of the most pampered MRs around!
Great work OP, I'm looking forward to watching your progress.
. About a year behind the works completed at the moment!
Ditto - really enjoyed reading that - thanks for all the effort you put in... to the car and the photos, etc! 
That's interesting reading about your bearing shells, which looked remarkably clean for that mileage. 6 of mine were showing copper when they were replaced at 78K miles, but my car did have 7 previous keepers and that's one of the reasons I had them replaced!
I had mine done by Ross at RBM Hampshire who set up on his own in 2019 after 15 years at Sytner, and he also fitted ACL shells but standard bolts so it's reassuring to read that you got the same advice.
I had mine done by Ross at RBM Hampshire who set up on his own in 2019 after 15 years at Sytner, and he also fitted ACL shells but standard bolts so it's reassuring to read that you got the same advice.
That's interesting reading about your bearing shells, which looked remarkably clean for that mileage. 6 of mine were showing copper when they were replaced at 78K miles, but my car did have 7 previous keepers and that's one of the reasons I had them replaced!
I had mine done by Ross at RBM Hampshire who set up on his own in 2019 after 15 years at Sytner, and he also fitted ACL shells but standard bolts so it's reassuring to read that you got the same advice.
Yes I was surprised that they were that clean too, you almost want them to be knackered to justify all the stress and work!
I concluded at this point that the car had not had a very hard life, or atleast the previous owners had been mechanically sympathetic which was reassuring.
It sounds like you caught yours at a good time and reinforces that the only way you really know is to get them changed. As you say, the ACL & standard bolts seemed a very robust combination!
Congrats on all the work done. Your 113k mile car is now better than most 13k mile cars
Interesting, definitely starting to show signs of wear. You timed that just right by the looks of it and I'd say money well spent. Much more along the lines of what I was expecting mine to look like.
Nothing is overly complex but it is a bit of a faff and no fun on axle stands on the driveway.
Just make sure if you do decide to do it that you mark the input shaft nut before you remove it and do it back up so that the lines you made match. Ensures that the preload on the bearkng is correct and you don't wear things out. Take your time too when removing the old seal so you don't leave a nice gouge in the diff housing. I'd also suggest marking the CSB before removal which negates the 5mm preload question or not.
Yes, I was glad I had them done as mine was always intended to be a keeper.
Mine has had a slight leak from the diff input seal for a couple of years - I'm probably just putting off the inevitable!
Sure, the chamber where the relief piston is housed has a cut out inside that is machined out. The machining process at the factory leaves a burr.
As the piston moves up and down to maintain oil pressure - it slides past this section to block it off and the burr is what scores it.
Some people even go as far as to disassemble the new pumps to deburr them - I did not as you'd need to completely disassemble and clean to remove all debris.
I'm also told (but not confirmed from my own investigation) that there is an update in the latest pump - either the piston coating itself or the machining process, or both would be my guess.
It's such a basic problem to have. Not the quality you would expect from an OEM supplier.
This is the only picture I have but about half way down the relief tube on the inside of the pump is where the cutout starts.
