Fish coax cable through the rear bumper efficiently (don't waste as much time as I did). This seems simple, but it’s worth a couple comments and photos. Start by removing the number plate lights. Use a flat screwdriver to pry on the RH end on both. They are likely to come out mangled, and it took ‘forever’ to re-bend them just right to seat them solidly again. AND 18 years of dirt build-up . . .
Number Plate Lights coming out (both Left and Right)
Next, remove the LH tail light assembly – one wiring connector and three nuts. The gasket WILL stick.
Taillight cavity, showing the grommet where the coax cable will pass into boot (trunk)
"Fishing Wire" - but coming out of LH light opening instead of RH . . . move it over to pull coax left to taillight
A key fact is that the plastic bumper cover sits directly on the steel bumper beam in the area between the number plate lights – about where one might drill a hole to run the coax lead.
Don't drill a hole for a BC lead until AFTER the number plate lights are removed. This is why you will notice a small black nylon plug a very short distance from the point the coax enters my bumper. It’s also important to fish your coax cable through the same portion of the bumper as the wiring for the number plate lights. I put an LED shop light in the space usually occupied by the taillight assembly, and I looked through the RH side number plate light opening while passing the “fishing” tool (solid core electrical wire) through from the tail light area to the RH number plate light opening. I believe that the number plate light wiring is the same for all world markets – from the LH side to the plate lights - since the lights are identical, asymmetric, and constructed to be wired from the LH side. When you have pulled your coax cable from right to left inside the bumper, the end will be above the exhaust tips, but still outside the boot (trunk) itself. I used the same spare rubber grommet that Mojito did to pass my coax lead into the boot (photo). I drilled a hole in the grommet, undersize to the cable, and then I used an X-Acto® knife to make a slit crossing through the hole. The slit is just big enough to allow the coax connector to slip through. When compressed by the hole, the grommet should stay well-sealed.
Coax cable pulled and passed through grommet into boot. Coax is taped to the number plate light wires.
Mount BC50 backup camera neatly on a car with bulky (US/Canadian) plates. I wanted a subtle install like Mojito’s, directly above the number plate. But on my Z4 the taller US license plate was installed with the top edge almost touching the bumper overhang – there was no room. At least on my car, the number plate mounts to a black plastic base that is screwed onto the bumper. It’s still feasible to mount the camera above the plate, if one lowers the base and number plate. I lowered the black base 7/8 inch (22mm). This allowed me to use the Garmin BC50 mount by cutting a notch in the black base. The lower part of the BC50 mount is meant to clip onto a license plate. In my install it neatly sits behind the black base, and the mount is fastened to the bumper by small screws. Since the number plate sits proud of the bumper, the BC50 camera is effectively recessed by a few millimeters.
BC50 mount behind plastic number plate base
BC50 mounted
BC50 with number plate in place
My partly-recessed camera is tidy enough to satisfy me, and I like the fact that I can adjust the camera tilt if needed. These features almost make up for the extra time it all took.
In case you are wondering – no, the black number plate base doesn’t really need six screws! The middle pair are in holes from before I moved the base, so I filled them in.
Number Plate Lights coming out (both Left and Right)
Next, remove the LH tail light assembly – one wiring connector and three nuts. The gasket WILL stick.
Taillight cavity, showing the grommet where the coax cable will pass into boot (trunk)
"Fishing Wire" - but coming out of LH light opening instead of RH . . . move it over to pull coax left to taillight
A key fact is that the plastic bumper cover sits directly on the steel bumper beam in the area between the number plate lights – about where one might drill a hole to run the coax lead.
Don't drill a hole for a BC lead until AFTER the number plate lights are removed. This is why you will notice a small black nylon plug a very short distance from the point the coax enters my bumper. It’s also important to fish your coax cable through the same portion of the bumper as the wiring for the number plate lights. I put an LED shop light in the space usually occupied by the taillight assembly, and I looked through the RH side number plate light opening while passing the “fishing” tool (solid core electrical wire) through from the tail light area to the RH number plate light opening. I believe that the number plate light wiring is the same for all world markets – from the LH side to the plate lights - since the lights are identical, asymmetric, and constructed to be wired from the LH side. When you have pulled your coax cable from right to left inside the bumper, the end will be above the exhaust tips, but still outside the boot (trunk) itself. I used the same spare rubber grommet that Mojito did to pass my coax lead into the boot (photo). I drilled a hole in the grommet, undersize to the cable, and then I used an X-Acto® knife to make a slit crossing through the hole. The slit is just big enough to allow the coax connector to slip through. When compressed by the hole, the grommet should stay well-sealed.Coax cable pulled and passed through grommet into boot. Coax is taped to the number plate light wires.
Mount BC50 backup camera neatly on a car with bulky (US/Canadian) plates. I wanted a subtle install like Mojito’s, directly above the number plate. But on my Z4 the taller US license plate was installed with the top edge almost touching the bumper overhang – there was no room. At least on my car, the number plate mounts to a black plastic base that is screwed onto the bumper. It’s still feasible to mount the camera above the plate, if one lowers the base and number plate. I lowered the black base 7/8 inch (22mm). This allowed me to use the Garmin BC50 mount by cutting a notch in the black base. The lower part of the BC50 mount is meant to clip onto a license plate. In my install it neatly sits behind the black base, and the mount is fastened to the bumper by small screws. Since the number plate sits proud of the bumper, the BC50 camera is effectively recessed by a few millimeters.
BC50 mount behind plastic number plate base
BC50 mounted
BC50 with number plate in place
My partly-recessed camera is tidy enough to satisfy me, and I like the fact that I can adjust the camera tilt if needed. These features almost make up for the extra time it all took.
In case you are wondering – no, the black number plate base doesn’t really need six screws! The middle pair are in holes from before I moved the base, so I filled them in.
