Replace lower wish bone

[B21]

Yes both top and bottom linkages..most strain apparently is in the top one but best to do both and whilst your there the tie rod ends with Meyle HD (note HD) ends..

Toe in is as per book..do you have the book?

You need to work out what to do about the sensor..I cut the ‘knob’ off the existing clamp on bracket and used epoxy to fix it to the new arm..there’s very little load on it so that should be fine…I’ve seen others use tie wraps, plastic and metal ..one used what looked like baler twine… :tumbleweed:

 

[Silverstar]

I’ve got all the bits now except TRW JTC1426 can’t seen to find it anywhere. Another website similar to Autodoc had it last week but I was too slow when I went to order it at the weekend they were sold out!

 

[sumotan]

Yes both top and bottom linkages..most strain apparently is in the top one but best to do both and whilst your there the tie rod ends with Meyle HD (note HD) ends..

Toe in is as per book..do you have the book?


You need to work out what to do about the sensor..I cut the ‘knob’ off the existing clamp on bracket and used epoxy to fix it to the new arm..there’s very little load on it so that should be fine…I’ve seen others use tie wraps, plastic and metal ..one used what looked like baler twine… :tumbleweed:

Noted & thank you again B21. On a different note, do you recall the thread I posted about remote mapping ? Well that Celtic remote will not work on the 28i something about old platform with new engine thingy. Question pls I've collected some data logs, if I send the ecu out for re mapping, do you think the logs is sufficient for the tuner to use as reference ?

 

[B21]

Yes both top and bottom linkages..most strain apparently is in the top one but best to do both and whilst your there the tie rod ends with Meyle HD (note HD) ends..

Toe in is as per book..do you have the book?


You need to work out what to do about the sensor..I cut the ‘knob’ off the existing clamp on bracket and used epoxy to fix it to the new arm..there’s very little load on it so that should be fine…I’ve seen others use tie wraps, plastic and metal ..one used what looked like baler twine… :tumbleweed:

Noted & thank you again B21. On a different note, do you recall the thread I posted about remote mapping ? Well that Celtic remote will not work on the 28i something about old platform with new engine thingy. Question pls I've collected some data logs, if I send the ecu out for re mapping, do you think the logs is sufficient for the tuner to use as reference ?

I think you are on your own…as was implied by Celtic the N20 engine was put belatedly into what was an earlier technology platform…it affects the ECU and TCU as far as remote mapping…

It’s possible to use something like Protool to do some data logging but I doubt you will find someone who you can trust to do the tweak..

I guess you could ask Celtic to bench flash the ECU with their stock 28i tune? :tumbleweed:

 

[flybobbie]

So fitted new parts, yet to drive.
The ends seem to have less flex than the original. New part on the left.

New part was slightly wider (longer?) across fixing hole by 0.4mm.
I ground some off with Dremel tool.
Basically polished off some turning marks.

 

[flybobbie]

Well took it for a quick spin, first impression, road noise.
Need to double check tracking, running straight, but as i suspected the more rigid bush might transmitting the tyre noise.
Give it week see what happens.
Not throwing out the old arms yet.
Just wish the car steered less like a narrow boat, needs quicker steering.

I could live the wishbone only replaced that definitely made a difference.

 

[Silverstar]

I don't understand how changing the arms affects road noise (good or bad), a firmer ride I get but I don't see the correlation to road noise. :?

 

[flybobbie]

Yes firmer ride, like a stiffer shocks. Car rattled more.
I sensed road noise had come back, so quiet before. Noise to me means inefficient, scrubbing of tyres.
Only thing i can think of is wheels are now a bit off tracking or noise travels to body via the arm and stiffer bush.

The original bush is more flexible possibly allowing wheel to find it's own way, so to speak.
But was first thing i noticed as i drove up road.
Steering wise, not sure it made much difference.

Perhaps reason BMW fitted, to give more of a saloon car feel.
I did wonder if i was wasting time, effort and money, the wish bone made so much difference.
Try tomorrow going to work.

 

[sumotan]

Yes both top and bottom linkages..most strain apparently is in the top one but best to do both and whilst your there the tie rod ends with Meyle HD (note HD) ends..

Toe in is as per book..do you have the book?


You need to work out what to do about the sensor..I cut the ‘knob’ off the existing clamp on bracket and used epoxy to fix it to the new arm..there’s very little load on it so that should be fine…I’ve seen others use tie wraps, plastic and metal ..one used what looked like baler twine… :tumbleweed:

Thanks again B21. Actually it wasn't Celtic who told me it can't do remote mapping. Was recommended a tuner from Holland
who assured me that they can perform remote mapping but when I got the kit it couldn't work. The hand held device is from
Alien Tech which is also used by Celtic. In anycase thank you again for all the advice.


Noted & thank you again B21. On a different note, do you recall the thread I posted about remote mapping ? Well that Celtic remote will not work on the 28i something about old platform with new engine thingy. Question pls I've collected some data logs, if I send the ecu out for re mapping, do you think the logs is sufficient for the tuner to use as reference ?

I think you are on your own…as was implied by Celtic the N20 engine was put belatedly into what was an earlier technology platform…it affects the ECU and TCU as far as remote mapping…

It’s possible to use something like Protool to do some data logging but I doubt you will find someone who you can trust to do the tweak..

I guess you could ask Celtic to bench flash the ECU with their stock 28i tune? :tumbleweed:

 

[flybobbie]

Well going to put back my original and nearly new original arms.
Keep the wishbones, they made a nice difference.
For some reason turning right there is a scrapping noise, like the disc shield rubbing on disc?
Front feels like sport dampers fitted, air vents rattle.

 

[flybobbie]

Gone back to the original arms and keeping new wish bones, much better.

 

[spitfun]

The wishbones on the lower M style are a bit lower. It gives you more negative camber,but it also toes the tires in. You need to bring the wheels out,I went 1/16" toe out and I like it as it gives you faster turn-in. I would probably go zero toe,you should notice a bit heavier more precise steering.

 

[flybobbie]

Std. toe at the moment.
I noticed with the arms i tried, if i was a bit quick on the steering, a over steer would kick, felt odd.
I am now happy to drive in normal mode, would use sport in the past just help stability.

So something else came up, scrapping noise on left disc.
I think steering ball joint pushed the splash guard towards disc.
Seem to come after fitting the new arms i have now removed, back to original spec.
So bent it back, all ok now.

 

[Silverstar]

Having bought the E90 M3 control arms and Meyle HD tie rod ends (as recommended by B21), they were sitting in the box for months as my mechanic seemed to be AWOL, finally yesterday managed to get another shop to fit them and as has already been told many times before what a difference this upgrade makes. The car turns in much better, sharper and incidentally I have not notice any extra road noise and changes to the ride quality etc.

I suspect most of these cars would benefit from a suspension refresh even if just using stock parts rather than the M3 ones as due to age and mileage, on almost all cars these components will be worn. The mechanic acutally told me that my old parts were showing signs of wear, my Z4 is 14 years old and has about 55,000 miles on it. The front end now feels tight and new.

Next job tackle the rear and add the B21 Bilstein / Eibach kit, the shop actually recommended Ohlins coilover which I think B21 has but I can't justify spending that much on this old car.

 

[B21]

On these cars the heavier, hotter and more powerful the cars run the faster the front end bushes wear out.

My 50k 35is was shocking.

I think quite a few E89s RTABs must be shot too!

There is a law of diminishing returns in terms of bearing /bush quality..however the cost and time to get in there should suggest that for most folks btter not to skimp if you are already there.

The Bilstein kit is very cost effective!

 

[Silverstar]

On these cars the heavier, hotter and more powerful the cars run the faster the front end bushes wear out.

My 50k 35is was shocking.

I think quite a few E89s RTABs must be shot too!

There is a law of diminishing returns in terms of bearing /bush quality..however the cost and time to get in there should suggest that for most folks btter not to skimp if you are already there.

The Bilstein kit is very cost effective!

Apart from the RTABs what else needs to be done at the rear? I was referring to the Bilstein B12 kit not the B21 :rofl:

 

[B21]

On these cars the heavier, hotter and more powerful the cars run the faster the front end bushes wear out.

My 50k 35is was shocking.

I think quite a few E89s RTABs must be shot too!

There is a law of diminishing returns in terms of bearing /bush quality..however the cost and time to get in there should suggest that for most folks btter not to skimp if you are already there.

The Bilstein kit is very cost effective!

Apart from the RTABs what else needs to be done at the rear? I was referring to the Bilstein B12 kit not the B21 :rofl:

RTABs with limiters preferably Meyle HD parts or uprated RTABs from Hard Race with stiffened RTAB brackets along with either new bushes 2 and 3 or Hard Race versions are your best bet.

https://www.hardrace-europe.com/car/bmw/z4-2nd-gen-2009-2016/roadster-e89-2009-2016

Lower powered car not so bad but once you go north past 300 BHP the RTABs deform under power resulting in rear wheel steer..

 

[Silverstar]

On these cars the heavier, hotter and more powerful the cars run the faster the front end bushes wear out.

My 50k 35is was shocking.

I think quite a few E89s RTABs must be shot too!

There is a law of diminishing returns in terms of bearing /bush quality..however the cost and time to get in there should suggest that for most folks btter not to skimp if you are already there.

The Bilstein kit is very cost effective!

Apart from the RTABs what else needs to be done at the rear? I was referring to the Bilstein B12 kit not the B21 :rofl:

RTABs with limiters preferably Meyle HD parts or uprated RTABs from Hard Race with stiffened RTAB brackets along with either new bushes 2 and 3 or Hard Race versions are your best bet.

https://www.hardrace-europe.com/car/bmw/z4-2nd-gen-2009-2016/roadster-e89-2009-2016

Lower powered car not so bad but once you go north past 300 BHP the RTABs deform under power resulting in rear wheel steer..

Thanks!