Replace lower wish bone

Hi Peter,

So I’m understanding… you cut most of the bracket away and just Epoxied the ‘knob’ part to the new wishbone?
 
True-Blue said:
Hi Peter,

So I’m understanding… you cut most of the bracket away and just Epoxied the ‘knob’ part to the new wishbone?

Correcto!
 
Autodoc on a 40% discount day takes some beating…plus unlikely to be bogus parts…having said that, last time I did it I had to buy one of eBay as Autodoc didn’t have a full set..

I do have one of the links which I can let you have at 50% off plus p+p
 
Well having driven the car to work and back all week, have fallen back in love with the car.
There was a few days i drove to work and was ready to just given up on it, had 11 years, time for a change ?..
The steering and stability just awful. (plus the clunky gearbox, seems better with more weight in car, like full fuel).
I would never go on a long journey be too tiring.

But now i look forward to the drive, in fact i want to keep going and skip work.
It's hard to quantify what has changed.
The steering is effortless, slight nudge it turns.
Lighter on sport mode, not truck like. I would run sport all the time because being heavy aided stability, which seemed wrong.
No road noise from the front at all.
All i hear now is from the rear wheels via the rear speaker grilles.
Start to wonder if they have too much camber, they set at max. i think 2.5 degrees.
Might reduce to square up the tyre with the road.

After replacing the RFT's this is the best mod done to this car.
I don't have the servotronic option, so might be different on other cars.

Here's to many more happy (s)miles :D
 
2 degrees of rear camber is more than enough , especially for less powerful variants..

It’s illogical that geometry settings are the same for both light and heavy and a 2:1 range in power..
 
spitfun said:
Now put some larger swaybars on it and you will really love it...
Not bothered about how it goes around bends, but just trying to get that feeling of wheels in contact with road feedback.
 
flybobbie said:
Did my rough and ready check, rear camber reads 1.7 degrees.

Usually the toe adjustment is badly out when fitting the M3 parts..mine darted like demented roller skates..
 
I’ve ordered both lower and upper arms plus the track rod ends as suggested by B21. Autodoc had all except one lower bar which I need to look for elsewhere, anyone know how long Autodoc take to dispatch orders been waiting quite a few days? also is it necessary to replace any nuts or bolts that hold these things or can you just use the old ones?
 
Autodoc in UK usually more than a week.
I expect several working days.
I used old bolts, rods come with new lock nuts.
 
Hi Guys,
Me too am looking into improving feel on my 28i but its only for road used. Are these mods ok for road use & how much
more negative camber is added to the front ?
Also are you guys using an adjustable rear lower camber arms, don't seem to be able to dial in mine equally for both sides.

Many thanks
 
sumotan said:
Hi Guys,
Me too am looking into improving feel on my 28i but its only for road used. Are these mods ok for road use & how much
more negative camber is added to the front ?
Also are you guys using an adjustable rear lower camber arms, don't seem to be able to dial in mine equally for both sides.

Many thanks

My car is used exclusively on the road..geometry settings for track use are very different to road use..

You only want 0.5 to 1.5 max front camber which can be dialled in easily…you need a bit of front toe in..

On the rear I use adjust rear camber arms..however the rear geometry is cross linked ..

I can’t achieve my preferred camber and get perfect rear toe in..

So camber us at 2.5 to preserve adequate toe in..

I’ve got adjustable toe plates to be fitted..when done I’ll add a touch more toe in and reduce rear camber to 1.5 - 2.0 :thumbsup:
 
Was going to fit today or tomorrow the two, i would call drag links, the one's which are wiggly shaped.
Suspension arm
Article №: JTC1424
Suspension arm
Article №: JTC1423
£68.70 each Autodoc.
See what difference that makes.
Well i measured rear camber with digital angle measure and flat surface (cupboard shelf) on wheel, came out at 1.7 degrees (looks like 10 to the eye!)
So the fronts must be something visually like 0.5 degrees or even zero.

Something else that has gone, scrubbing of tyres when i reverse out of parking space hard turn 90 degrees at home to exit.
 
1.7 and 0.5 are not bad settings for road going E89…toe in needs to be appropriately set :thumbsup:
 
Toes ok.

All least of my worries, aircraft engine stud snapped on me weekend threw oil over windshield.
Looks costly fix, car will have to wait a few days.
 
B21 said:
sumotan said:
Hi Guys,
Me too am looking into improving feel on my 28i but its only for road used. Are these mods ok for road use & how much
more negative camber is added to the front ?
Also are you guys using an adjustable rear lower camber arms, don't seem to be able to dial in mine equally for both sides.

Many thanks

My car is used exclusively on the road..geometry settings for track use are very different to road use..

You only want 0.5 to 1.5 max front camber which can be dialled in easily…you need a bit of front toe in..

On the rear I use adjust rear camber arms..however the rear geometry is cross linked ..

I can’t achieve my preferred camber and get perfect rear toe in..

So camber us at 2.5 to preserve adequate toe in..

I’ve got adjustable toe plates to be fitted..when done I’ll add a touch more toe in and reduce rear camber to 1.5 - 2.0 :thumbsup:

Many thanks again B21. Do I need the top arms for the front as well & what is the proper toe in angle ?
Lastly Im kind of confused on the sensor head light sensor mounting thingy. Have not taken a proper look under the
car so am a little lost

Thanks again
 
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