Programming power supply

birdy_z4

Member
Warwickshire
Hi All

Looking for a link or advice on a power supply for when programming

Read that you need constant power when programming but can’t Find the link anymore

Cheers
 
Programming the ECU and such with MHD, xHP, etc? If so it’s recommended a proper charger. I’ve bought this in America:
Schumacher SC1281 100 Amp 30 Amp... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BLLRM8R?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
 
How long is your programming process taking?

I was fine with a cheap battery charger during a 20+ minute remap. If your battery is healthy then a charger shouldn't even be necessary, it's more of a very sensible precaution due to how badly things can go wrong if you do lose power.
 
tiglon said:
How long is your programming process taking?

I was fine with a cheap battery charger during a 20+ minute remap. If your battery is healthy then a charger shouldn't even be necessary, it's more of a very sensible precaution due to how badly things can go wrong if you do lose power.
NO NO dont try it without a charger its a super bad idea, play safe.
I managed to disable my DCT by mapping it without a charger despite just having driven 50 miles on a pristine battery.
Charger connected, remapped, all fixed....
 
mcbutler said:
tiglon said:
How long is your programming process taking?

I was fine with a cheap battery charger during a 20+ minute remap. If your battery is healthy then a charger shouldn't even be necessary, it's more of a very sensible precaution due to how badly things can go wrong if you do lose power.
NO NO dont try it without a charger its a super bad idea, play safe.
I managed to disable my DCT by mapping it without a charger despite just having driven 50 miles on a pristine battery.
Charger connected, remapped, all fixed....

Apologies, should have worded that differently. Definitely not recommending anyone tries it without a battery.
 
If you don’t want to buy a super expensive 25 amp plus charger the safe option is to first fully charge the battery overnight, then use a 6 to 10 amp charger..that way you’ll get at least 2 hours before the voltage drops enough to cause issues..

Of course, heating controls off and audio off at a minimum..

I bought an Amazon 15 amp baby for around £45 and with that I can run about 8 hours before voltage drops could be an issue..
 
B21 said:
If you don’t want to buy a super expensive 25 amp plus charger the safe option is to first fully charge the battery overnight, then use a 6 to 10 amp charger..that way you’ll get at least 2 hours before the voltage drops enough to cause issues..

Of course, heating controls off and audio off at a minimum..

I bought an Amazon 15 amp baby for around £45 and with that I can run about 8 hours before voltage drops could be an issue..

Thanks for the advice
 
OK, my 2p worth.....

Really depends what you are actually doing and which programming tool you are going to use.
Replacing the MULF, well if it's just a replacement you may get away with no coding for a used unit.
NCSExpert for a quick code you'll easily get away without a power supply at all, dependent on your battery condition << this is from personal experience of retrofitting for the last 5 years.
Using ISTA then you'll need a stable power supply with around a 50amp rating (or higher).

Sorry but in my book and the majority of all coding forums most of the chargers are just not stable enough to be used for serious coding

I made my own stable power supply, alas the original link is no longer available but here is a similar one...
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1586173&highlight=power+supply
 
I made an absolute mess of things a few months ago when programming the ECU.
Battery died after 45 minutes, ECU fecked.

Got another ECU and CAS and 2 keys.
But there are issues going down that route, so will be seeing if i can put the original back on and repair.

In the interim, i did figure out the problem.
If doing an upgrade, with the ignition on, the fuel pump is constantly on.

This drains the battery relatively quickly. So you need to pull out the fuel pump fuse to prevent this from happening.
And if your upgrade is going to take 30mins+, then you definately need to do this and use a power supply. I use a Ring battery charger/conditioner and i ensure that the battery had been charged overnight and is at full capacity and keep the charger on during the process.

I also use a charger for my laptop so that it does not die midway through the process.
 
Dr Obvious here. The piece of mind between a £45 and a £60 charger, a lousy £15 delta, is priceless.
 
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