Possible central locking issue?

[Zforbes]

Hi all.

I have an issue with what I think is central locking related. When I lock the car after 30 or so seconds, I get a click noise which is probably normal but this repeats like the car isn’t going to sleep as you’d expect. This is confirmed by the red LED on the handbrake switch, light goes out but comes back on after a second or so.

I think the issue to with my passenger side door lock actuator as I’m also getting an occasional failure with the window not dropping every time when opening the door and one instance of a door open warning.

Has anybody had similar issues – is there anyway to diagnose without replacing the lock actuator?

I took the door card off yesterday with the intention of confirming the part number but the Bowden cable that actuates the exterior handle appears to be a bit fiddley and likely to break something when removed. When I search the web I seem to get a lot of different part numbers although this item seems to be pretty generic within the BMW range. Can anybody confirm if this is something I need to be concerned about when ordering a new one?

 

[Zforbes]

For future reference if anybody else sees the same issue, today I changed the passenger door lock actuator, pretty easy change over in the end, probably not much more than an hour to take door card off remove and refit a new one. Hardest bit was removing the screw cover in the door storage box. All back together and locks working as they should although it was intermittent so will monitor over the next few days. If I don't post here again assume it worked.

The part was £53 delivered from Lloyd BMW Carlisle, eBay link below

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-DOOR-LOCK-LATCH-WITH-MOTOR-N-S-LEFT-SIDE-51217202145-E60-F10-E70-F01-F25-/172804839305?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

 

[B21]

For future reference if anybody else sees the same issue, today I changed the passenger door lock actuator, pretty easy change over in the end, probably not much more than an hour to take door card off remove and refit a new one. Hardest bit was removing the screw cover in the door storage box. All back together and locks working as they should although it was intermittent so will monitor over the next few days. If I don't post here again assume it worked.

The part was £53 delivered from Lloyd BMW Carlisle, eBay link below

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-DOOR-LOCK-LATCH-WITH-MOTOR-N-S-LEFT-SIDE-51217202145-E60-F10-E70-F01-F25-/172804839305?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Thanks for the update..so often people have an issue, people propose solutions, you never here whether they worked.

I suspect I may have something vaguely similar on the drivers door..the price makes the denial,option less attractive

 

[Zforbes]

For future reference if anybody else sees the same issue, today I changed the passenger door lock actuator, pretty easy change over in the end, probably not much more than an hour to take door card off remove and refit a new one. Hardest bit was removing the screw cover in the door storage box. All back together and locks working as they should although it was intermittent so will monitor over the next few days. If I don't post here again assume it worked.

The part was £53 delivered from Lloyd BMW Carlisle, eBay link below

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-DOOR-LOCK-LATCH-WITH-MOTOR-N-S-LEFT-SIDE-51217202145-E60-F10-E70-F01-F25-/172804839305?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Thanks for the update..so often people have an issue, people propose solutions, you never here whether they worked.

I suspect I may have something vaguely similar on the drivers door..the price makes the denial,option less attractive

I always look on forums first, nothing similar although I'm sure it's a lot more frequent. Frustrating when you find similar issues with no resolution. I'm alright jack attitude

Drivers usually a bit more difficult to fit due to the lock barrel, nothing to be worried about though

There's a YouTube clip with door card removal and others that show lock actuator replacement on e90, actuator a bit easier on e89, you don't need to remove the window regulator bar.

 

[B21]

For future reference if anybody else sees the same issue, today I changed the passenger door lock actuator, pretty easy change over in the end, probably not much more than an hour to take door card off remove and refit a new one. Hardest bit was removing the screw cover in the door storage box. All back together and locks working as they should although it was intermittent so will monitor over the next few days. If I don't post here again assume it worked.

The part was £53 delivered from Lloyd BMW Carlisle, eBay link below

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-DOOR-LOCK-LATCH-WITH-MOTOR-N-S-LEFT-SIDE-51217202145-E60-F10-E70-F01-F25-/172804839305?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Thanks for the update..so often people have an issue, people propose solutions, you never here whether they worked.

I suspect I may have something vaguely similar on the drivers door..the price makes the denial,option less attractive

I always look on forums first, nothing similar although I'm sure it's a lot more frequent. Frustrating when you find similar issues with no resolution. I'm alright jack attitude

Drivers usually a bit more difficult to fit due to the lock barrel, nothing to be worried about though

There's a YouTube clip with door card removal and others that show lock actuator replacement on e90, actuator a bit easier on e89, you don't need to remove the window regulator bar.

Great thanks..as I said if a pathfinder has done the job for a reasonable price then I can follow

 

[Zforbes]

Thanks for the update..so often people have an issue, people propose solutions, you never here whether they worked.

I suspect I may have something vaguely similar on the drivers door..the price makes the denial,option less attractive

I always look on forums first, nothing similar although I'm sure it's a lot more frequent. Frustrating when you find similar issues with no resolution. I'm alright jack attitude

Drivers usually a bit more difficult to fit due to the lock barrel, nothing to be worried about though

There's a YouTube clip with door card removal and others that show lock actuator replacement on e90, actuator a bit easier on e89, you don't need to remove the window regulator bar.

Great thanks..as I said if a pathfinder has done the job for a reasonable price then I can follow

Further update. Car is doing exactly the same this morning if not worse. When I got in the car passenger side window dropping an inch and going back up, set off on a journey and had 3 passenger door open warnings ping up in about 20 minutes of driving.

Got a few errands to run I'll investigate further, I have INPA and other software on laptop but I don't think I'll have any fault codes to read.

Bowden cables looked good when refitting and other than possibly sticking / tight cable I can't imagine why this would be the problem.

I'm thinking now I could have an issue with the drivers side footwell module maybe

 

[B21]

I’ve not looked but does the FRM control the front windows and locks?

The FRMs do seem to have a track record of bricking , sometimes it’s caused by multiple recurring faults in a circuit then the FRM gives up?

 

[Zforbes]

I’ve not looked but does the FRM control the front windows and locks?

The FRMs do seem to have a track record of bricking , sometimes it’s caused by multiple recurring faults in a circuit then the FRM gives up?

That sort of rules that one out then, I thought it controlled the locks similar to the GM5 on my old e46.

It does operate windows though but from the fault description I've read it doesn't appear similar to my issues.

Wife's out shopping with her mum and its just stopped raining so going to take door card off again and check out the Bowden cables for sticking other than that I'm lost. Surely the new actuator can't have the same issues

 

[B21]

I doubt the new unit will have the same fault as the old unit..

How did you reach the conclusion that it was the door lock?

Fault codes?

 

[Zforbes]

I doubt the new unit will have the same fault as the old unit..

How did you reach the conclusion that it was the door lock?

Fault codes?

Mainly due to the issues I was having but I did have a FRM code

9cbc short circuit interruption of door contacts.

I can't seem to change inpa to English though so it's taking some time to work out what's going on

 

[B21]

Well that looks like your issue…just need to find what’s causing the short circuit…sounds nasty..cracked / frayed wiring?

 

[Zforbes]

Whilst the door card was off I noticed quite a bit of water on the contacts for the illuminated door handle leds, I've dried it off best I could and refitted the external window seal, there was quite a gap near the back of the door directly above the door handle.

Rain stopped play though so had to get car back together and come in

 

[B21]

Whilst the door card was off I noticed quite a bit of water on the contacts for the illuminated door handle leds, I've dried it off best I could and refitted the external window seal, there was quite a gap near the back of the door directly above the door handle.

Rain stopped play though so had to get car back together and come in

That may be it..the issue with all this electronic sensory is that a bit of water and maybe associated corrosion may trigger a short circuit fault?

I guess is you pull various units off the fault if cleared shouldn't re-appear then voila there is where the fault is?

 

[Zforbes]

I cleared the fault code first time I had a play with the lock. It didn't come back on straight away but it is showing this same code now.

Haven't cleared it yet as I've seen youtube clips where using toolset32 software you can delve a little deeper. It's It's pain though as I can't seem to change the language and German is not very well understood. Google translate required to work out what I'm doing whilst being careful not to balls thinks up.

 

[B21]

I cleared the fault code first time I had a play with the lock. It didn't come back on straight away but it is showing this same code now.

Haven't cleared it yet as I've seen youtube clips where using toolset32 software you can delve a little deeper. It's It's pain though as I can't seem to change the language and German is not very well understood. Google translate required to work out what I'm doing whilst being careful not to balls thinks up.

Yes I've got the BMW tools on my laptop but prefer Bimmergeeks Protool for that reason where possible..good luck..

 

[flybobbie]

Looking at wiring diagram today, central locking.
I noticed on the security diagram, glove box lock.
Seems to suggest it locks when central locking activated.
Didn't know that.

 

[Zforbes]

Further twists and turns and still not fixed

As previously posted, I replaced the lock actuator with a new part supplied by BMW and still had issues. I'm now on my 2nd replacement actuator as I thought I'd have another try as the problem symptom differed between the original and the new part.

Problem with original.

Whilst the car was locked the central locking system seemed to cycle and pulse to reset the lock. This caused frequent battery drainage warnings and whilst driving I had occasional door open warnings. Also near side window dropping occasionally when unlocking.

1st new OEM replacement

Lock cycling cured but very frequent door open warnings when driving, every 5mins or so. Occasional window drop when unlocking.

I then replaced with the original, symptoms exactly the same as it was originally.

2nd replacement

I then decided that since both locks had different types of failure I would try another lock actuator. The door open whilst driving is now very infrequent but the passenger window dropping more frequently when opening but only first thing in the morning. I also get driver side window drop occasionally but I have noticed this when the weather is colder and probably wetter.

The codes read via inpa continue to be 9CBC which corresponds to a short circuit in the near side door.

I've decided now to seek professional help, had an auto electrician round, he was flummoxed and recommend a mechanic local to me also a friend of a friend. He is a BMW trained indy and is highly recommended so he now has the car. I left it at his garage last night so he got the full affect when he unlocked it first thing. When I spoke to him earlier he reported that the locks did not actuate the window drop, therefore it must be moisture or temp related right?

He's read the codes and agrees the first thing should be replacing the actuator but understands I've done that now and should be ruled out. Surely I can't have 3 duff actuators

He's still got the car but he's scratching his head wondering what to do next.

He is confident that it is not window motor related due to the door open errors.

I've considered the FRM module but although the code is stored in the FRM it's not a failure that would be expected.

Thought I'd try on here again to get some ideas. If you have any thoughts please respond, ive run out

 

[B21]

The FRM is relatively notorious for bricking itself and various spurious issues..

In an ideal world a A / B swap would be a way to prove it..or not..

I feel your pain..

 

[Zforbes]

The FRM is relatively notorious for bricking itself and various spurious issues..

In an ideal world a A / B swap would be a way to prove it..or not..

I feel your pain..

There is a business not far from me that repairs FRMs for £45 off the car and no need to code. It is an option

A fair bit of googling tonight, I read a similar issue, E90 and it turned out a pin prick size hole in a wire. I've had a good look over the associated wires as much as I can but not in enough detail if the potential fault is that small

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=27696701#post27696701

There are only about 5 connected pins on the actuator so if this is my problem then it should only be 5 wires to check?

With weather temp related severity then could this be the smoking gun?

If all 3 locks behaved differently could it even be the socket that plugs into the actuator?

More to consider for tomorrow or my weekend if the mechanic gives in.

 

[Zforbes]

Update.

Since Saturday I've not had the issue with my central locking. Every day I got in previously I had issues with window dropping since the problem started.

Determined to resolve this, I removed the door card to inspect electrical connections and condition of the wiring harness. After approximately 90 mins I could no longer feel my fingers due to the cold weather so I gave up and put the car back together.

The most significant thing I did was to remove the rubber gator near the door hinge a disconnect from the mating socket primarily to check condition of wires, there are a lot in there but couldn't see anything. Could the unplugging and reconnecting the socket be the difference?

Whatever I have done it certainly made a difference, problem is since I haven't actually fixed anything then I feel like it will likely come back. I will post again if there are any further updates.