Poorly 35i (Now Fixed)(sort of)
- Thread starter Maniac
- Start date
£50, direct injection engines often inject straight onto the back of the inlet valve, one of the reasons for deposit build up in the area. I am not sure of the exact direction of the injected fuel but will check out your info, many thanks. Regardless its worth a go.....Smartbear said:mcbutler said:
Unfortunately that won't clean the inlet valves on a direct injection engine
How much did this cost you?
Rob
Just called the guy who did it for me, Terraclean use an adapter for DI engines that allows the inlet valve to be cleaned.mcbutler said:£50, direct injection engines often inject straight onto the back of the inlet valve, one of the reasons for deposit build up in the area. I am not sure of the exact direction of the injected fuel but will check out your info, many thanks. Regardless its worth a go.....Smartbear said:mcbutler said:
Unfortunately that won't clean the inlet valves on a direct injection engine
How much did this cost you?
Rob
mcbutler said:£50, direct injection engines often inject straight onto the back of the inlet valve, one of the reasons for deposit build up in the area. I am not sure of the exact direction of the injected fuel but will check out your info, many thanks. Regardless its worth a go.....Smartbear said:mcbutler said:
Unfortunately that won't clean the inlet valves on a direct injection engine
How much did this cost you?
Rob
Direct engines inject straight into the combustion chamber,valve coke build up just above the stellite face on the valve is caused because air/fuel mixture not passing over it.
So the car is booked in for next week but in the meantime I've put in some RedEx for the last tank full and it's improved... think I may cancel the appt and just see if it continues to improve as there's no missing now just a slightly lumpy idle when cold and I've still half the redex to go....
Sigh, the rough when cold running has returned. The longer the car stands the rougher it's next start. Still no codes though, don't want to risk diagnostic fees until it's showing codes.
It's not a regular misfire, it's spotty. It's also bouncing revs when I try and hold them other than at idle.
It's not a regular misfire, it's spotty. It's also bouncing revs when I try and hold them other than at idle.
It's about the same as when it first played up some weeks back. It's hesitant and intermittently misfires for the first mile then starts to smooth out and is normal when warm.
I have warranty so whatever comes the max cost will be the excess.
It's just getting it to be faulty enough to show codes or risk the dealer going 'seems fine to us' because there aren't codes.
It's just had a full service including plugs so it's not those (provided they really did change them).
I have warranty so whatever comes the max cost will be the excess.
It's just getting it to be faulty enough to show codes or risk the dealer going 'seems fine to us' because there aren't codes.
It's just had a full service including plugs so it's not those (provided they really did change them).
So to help my in my diagnosis can someone with a 35i/s start their car, let the revs settle to around 600r at idle as normal and then try and hold the throttle at 1000 or 1500 rpm (no higher).
I can only stabilise revs at 2000rpm or higher. Lower than that results in the idle bouncing up and down if I try to hold idle around 1000 rpm.
This will help me understand if the rev bounce is normal at light throttle when stationary or if it's a symptom of whatever is wrong.
I can only stabilise revs at 2000rpm or higher. Lower than that results in the idle bouncing up and down if I try to hold idle around 1000 rpm.
This will help me understand if the rev bounce is normal at light throttle when stationary or if it's a symptom of whatever is wrong.
Here is what I mean. For some reason I've also acquired a nice loud whine this morning from the engine, I'll consider that coincidence for now as it could be belts with it being stood a while.
So in this video I press the throttle a tiny amount and hold it there with my foot wedged against the footwell wall. I can't keep the revs stable until they're well over 2000rpm and I've no point of reference to indicate if this is right or wrong.
It just sounds and feels wrong.
https://youtu.be/SJsdVjejGjg
[youtube]SJsdVjejGjg[/youtube]
So in this video I press the throttle a tiny amount and hold it there with my foot wedged against the footwell wall. I can't keep the revs stable until they're well over 2000rpm and I've no point of reference to indicate if this is right or wrong.
It just sounds and feels wrong.
https://youtu.be/SJsdVjejGjg
[youtube]SJsdVjejGjg[/youtube]
Chances are that its going to be an injector.
I would get it in for diag check as a smooth running test can be done and this can determine which injector is faulty... On the N54 batches of 3 injectors should be swapped due to indexing.
What happens is the injector starts to drip fuel onto the top of the piston,effectively flooding the cylinder until it can be got rid of through combustion.
What you DONT want to happen is the injector to stick fully open and fill the cylinder,upon start this hydraulics the piston and will bend the rod. Sounds drastic but it does happen,and it aint rare..
I wouldnt wait....
I would get it in for diag check as a smooth running test can be done and this can determine which injector is faulty... On the N54 batches of 3 injectors should be swapped due to indexing.
What happens is the injector starts to drip fuel onto the top of the piston,effectively flooding the cylinder until it can be got rid of through combustion.
What you DONT want to happen is the injector to stick fully open and fill the cylinder,upon start this hydraulics the piston and will bend the rod. Sounds drastic but it does happen,and it aint rare..
I wouldnt wait....
