Poorly 35i (Now Fixed)(sort of)

Maniac said:
Thanks for that. So I saw a little bounce in revs when you held it at 1000 but it seemed to settle. Mine doesn't, it continues to bounce up and down despite holding the pedal at a fixed position.

Looks like this is an easy way to point at a fault.

Have you got any damage to any air hoses (vacuum system) this was a typical symptom in my past of cars with air leaks on the inlet manifold.

one way of finding a leak is to use brake cleaner (be careful) if the engine speed increases in an area when sprayed than its sucking in to the manifold at that point.

just a thought.
 
Hi Manic,

on a different point what code reader are you using and is it any good.

I need to clear my airbag light on my 5 series GT F07 and the dealers want £30 with is a good price IMHO, but i'd like to put this toward a reader/ fault clearing device as with my Z4 and F07 and my daughter cars, adding another £40-50 might be a better idea as then i'll be able to read and clear faults on all cars (i think)

cheers
 
Nothing im aware of. It's only an issue when cold.

It's warmed up now and revs can be held at 1000 with ease.

When cold I get that bounce as per my video.

I guess as has been suggested I'm going to have to take it in and take a chance they can find it easily.
 
Maniac said:
Nothing im aware of. It's only an issue when cold.

It's warmed up now and revs can be held at 1000 with ease.

When cold I get that bounce as per my video.

I guess as has been suggested I'm going to have to take it in and take a chance they can find it easily.

Any answer to my code reader question?
 
dario said:
Hi Manic,

on a different point what code reader are you using and is it any good.

I need to clear my airbag light on my 5 series GT F07 and the dealers want £30 with is a good price IMHO, but i'd like to put this toward a reader/ fault clearing device as with my Z4 and F07 and my daughter cars, adding another £40-50 might be a better idea as then i'll be able to read and clear faults on all cars (i think)

cheers

If you are comfortable with computers and have a laptop then I would recommend getting a virtual machine with a copy of ISTA Rheingold installed then buy a "bimmergeeks" DCAN cable. The BMW virtual machine containing all the software can be found in the coding section of E90post.

If you're not IT literate and have an Android phone then just buy the "MHD Flasher N54" app and a bimmergeeks cable and use that for code reading. It picks up all BMW specific codes and allows resets of all codes and engine adaptations.

I wouldn't bother with Carly. I was never impressed with its code reading abilities.
 
R.E92 said:
dario said:
Hi Manic,

on a different point what code reader are you using and is it any good.

I need to clear my airbag light on my 5 series GT F07 and the dealers want £30 with is a good price IMHO, but i'd like to put this toward a reader/ fault clearing device as with my Z4 and F07 and my daughter cars, adding another £40-50 might be a better idea as then i'll be able to read and clear faults on all cars (i think)

cheers

If you are comfortable with computers and have a laptop then I would recommend getting a virtual machine with a copy of ISTA Rheingold installed then buy a "bimmergeeks" DCAN cable. The BMW virtual machine containing all the software can be found in the coding section of E90post.

If you're not IT literate and have an Android phone then just buy the "MHD Flasher N54" app and a bimmergeeks cable and use that for code reading. It picks up all BMW specific codes and allows resets of all codes and engine adaptations.

I wouldn't bother with Carly. I was never impressed with its code reading abilities.

Thanks for the good info. Decided to let the dealer do it for £30. That way is done. Cheers
 
Took the car to Bmw on Saturday. Actually ran really well.

Right up until it started to slow down and the accelerator pedal no longer functioned, quickly followed by an amber warning about engine overheat.

The car went from 60 to 50 to 40 to 30 (motorway!) and i pulled into the hard shoulder doing 20mph at full throttle (made no difference) finally got stopped and waiting 10 mins. Started car and carried on within hard shoulder at 20mph until I stopped again. Waited another 10 mins before it would start again and limped the rest of the way at 20mph (car would not exceed this) and as I rolled into the dealership I got a red ‘stop immediately’ .. which I did.

This is going to be fun. Time for a Lexus?
 
Seems unlikely if the water pump has failed that it would have contributed to the misfire and hesitation when cold? Coincidence?
 
ph001 said:
Water pump for sure. £250 + fitting.

On a 35i :? you sure about that ? for the N54 twinturbo they are £495 for the pump alone on ECP :cry:
I have a invoice with my 35i for it replacing last year & its over £1100 from a Indy :(
 
mr wilks said:
ph001 said:
Water pump for sure. £250 + fitting.

On a 35i :? i have a invoice with my 35i for it replacing last year & its over £1100 from a Indy :(

Hmm, just had a quick look & they don't seem a crazy price-if it's like the N52 (looks like it's very similar externally fitted unit) it could be done & dusted within an hour :?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/281811971336
Rob
 
Smartbear said:
mr wilks said:
ph001 said:
Water pump for sure. £250 + fitting.

On a 35i :? i have a invoice with my 35i for it replacing last year & its over £1100 from a Indy :(

Hmm, just had a quick look & they don't seem a crazy price-if it's like the N52 (looks like it's very similar externally fitted unit) it could be done & dusted within an hour :?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/281811971336
Rob

Amended my post above as you were writing Rob :oops: think £350/£385 more probable but id be surprised if it is waterpump in this case
 
The cold start and hesitation will be injectors...

Water pump will be overheat problem.

If you have warranty,dont sweat it.......Both common probs on the N54.
 
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