Parking / side lights indicator light

Gollom122

Member
New car to me and a weird problem.
When I have my parking light or side lights on my near side indicator lights solid as well.
Lights look like aftermarket lights. I’ve compared left and right wiring looks and they look correct. On the near side though the connector has two wires both of which are blue/green. One goes to the bulb and one to a connector that goes to what I believe to be the blinker module.
Could these be the wrong way round or is it likely I have a short circuit somewhere?

Any help appreciated.
 
The indicator usually comes on like that when the corresponding sidelight bulb has failed.
Is this front or rear?
 
It’s the front that’s solid.
Indicators seem are ok. Rear, side and front all flash in unison. Changed the front bulb just in case there’s also a dash warning lamp out.
Indicator solid goes out when main beam on.
When you say corresponding do you mean the same side rear or the other front?
 
Sidewaze Samm said:
Gollom122 said:
When you say corresponding do you mean the same side rear or the other front?
The same corner
Ah. So in that cluster the side lights are 'Angel eyes'. Both light up fine. Could this point to a canbus issue where the car thinks there's a bulb out but there isn't? Would this only occur on the near side as I don't get it on the offside with the same light?
A previous owner and MOT failure had repaired poor wiring in the light. The result is that the connector blocks on this side have been removed and wires individually crimped. Might the after market block have contained a load resistor? I think these are unmitza
 
You can also code via Carly the indicator strips to illuminate ala the way they are in the USA, kinda like amber running lights. But as far as I can recall they code in pairs, not nsf/osf separately but I might be wrong and maybe they code individually. Although quite why a previous owner would only code one to come on doesn't make sense so its likely they can only code in pairs.

Probably more related to the issues the wiring you describe but I thought I'd mention it anyway!
 
If I cannot fix this issue with wiring and resistors could Carly be used to tell the control module to ignore the low voltage and therefore not throw the error light and not put the indicator into side marker mode?
 
From the turn signal bulb you mean? Possibly, I've never noticed if you can set it to ignore low voltage from the turn signal bulbs so can't say for sure. I could check on mine to see if it's an option in Carly but I'm at work right now unfortunately.

Carly can certainly be coded to ignore low voltage from headlight and sidelight bulbs, not sure about the turn signal bulbs.
 
Tango22 said:
From the turn signal bulb you mean? Possibly, I've never noticed if you can set it to ignore low voltage from the turn signal bulbs so can't say for sure. I could check on mine to see if it's an option in Carly but I'm at work right now unfortunately.

Carly can certainly be coded to ignore low voltage from headlight and sidelight bulbs, not sure about the turn signal bulbs.
I may be confused, but I think it is the sidelight causing the low voltage, which the car is sensing and putting the indicator on?
 
enuff_zed said:
Tango22 said:
From the turn signal bulb you mean? Possibly, I've never noticed if you can set it to ignore low voltage from the turn signal bulbs so can't say for sure. I could check on mine to see if it's an option in Carly but I'm at work right now unfortunately.

Carly can certainly be coded to ignore low voltage from headlight and sidelight bulbs, not sure about the turn signal bulbs.
I may be confused, but I think it is the sidelight causing the low voltage, which the car is sensing and putting the indicator on?
That’s correct. From the forum I’ve learned that if your near side sidelight is out and you put either park light or side light on it will illuminate the indicator instead. My angel eyes is lit but it appears the car thinks it isn’t and is lighting the indicator. My challenge is to either fool it with resistors or re code it to ignore. (I think!)
 
Gollom122 said:
If I cannot fix this issue with wiring and resistors could Carly be used to tell the control module to ignore the low voltage and therefore not throw the error light and not put the indicator into side marker mode?
Yes.
I coded mine using NCS Expert after installing LED sidelights which caused the indicators to come on solid.
 
So I’ve removed the other light (as this one is fix wired in now) to take a look for resistors.
I found a yellow and black wire connected to a box with rt113 written in it. I’ve removed the box and found what appears to be two resistors which are soldered together. Each has written on it 10w16(ohm sign)J.
I’ve put a multimeter across the contacts set on 200ohm and I get a reading of 8.2
I am hoping this is what I am looking for and will be able to compare with my butchered side.
There does not appear to be any components in the socket and plug on the good side that have been removed and on the butchered side so I am hoping this is the item that is causing my fault.
I’ll report back when I’ve tested resistance across the other module.
 
Gollom122 said:
So I’ve removed the other light (as this one is fix wired in now) to take a look for resistors.
I found a yellow and black wire connected to a box with rt113 written in it. I’ve removed the box and found what appears to be two resistors which are soldered together. Each has written on it 10w16(ohm sign)J.
I’ve put a multimeter across the contacts set on 200ohm and I get a reading of 8.2
I am hoping this is what I am looking for and will be able to compare with my butchered side.
There does not appear to be any components in the socket and plug on the good side that have been removed and on the butchered side so I am hoping this is the item that is causing my fault.
I’ll report back when I’ve tested resistance across the other module.
It’s not that. This appears to be a load resistor for indicators. I have incandescent in but think that’s unusual. Perhaps someone else failed to fix this and took led lights out. Resistors measure correctly on both sides.
I think I need to turn to coding.
One question remains.
Is this an mot failure? Having one solid indicator on with side lights. Amber error on dash also?
 
I don't know about the solid indicator but my 3 Series passed an MOT in September with the amber bulb error on the dash. It was one of the tail-lights on the boot lid but the one in the light cluster in the rear wing was working and you only need one!
 
Well the error on the dash was concerning me most about the mot and you have confirmed what I read which is that the dash must correctly display the information ( that you are signalling a turn, have your lights on etc) I read that the likes of tpms errors are acceptable.
Cheers
 
So the plot thickens.
My sonar headlights apparently used to have an eyebrow which was powered on the same source as the angel eyes wired to the sidelight switch. Mine have wires cut. So allegedly when the eyebrow is connected these lights would be error free but lots of people didn’t like the eyebrow strip so removed them.
I am contemplating wiring this back up and adding a w5w 501 lamp back into the light or alternatively I have found w5w load resistors to try.
In the meantime I have put the bumper back on so I can drive the car for a while so it may be some time before I test this.
Chris D - if yours are the same you could try, or have a good look at the top of the cluster as this bulb may be your culprit.
 
Gollom122 said:
Chris D - if yours are the same you could try, or have a good look at the top of the cluster as this bulb may be your culprit.
My headlights are stock xenons fella.
I'm pretty sure it was due to the dodgy Chung Fang Dung LED sidelights I had in there causing the issue.
Replacing the old original halogens didn't resolve it so I'm going to throw in some new halogen sidelights this weekend while I swap in the winter wheels if I have time and see if that fixes it.
It's no biggie, as like yours the indicator solid stops when I use the headlights.
 
Chris_D said:
I'm pretty sure it was due to the dodgy Chung Fang Dung LED sidelights I had in there causing the issue.
Any LEDs without resistors ("CANBUS compatible" just means they have them and about 4 W of heat to dissipate too...) will do it. If you want to used LEDs just code out the checks :)
I've had OSRAM and Philips for at least 7 years with no dramas, I'm sure filaments would have needed swapping out at least once by now.
 
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