P1107 code z4 2005 2.0

clang0203

Member
West Sussex
Hi, ecu light came on two weeks ago with code p1170 code. Reset and been driving fine code back on today, don’t want to keep resetting. Anyone any ideas, car does smell a bit rich and slight flickering of Rev needle at idle but hardly noticeable once warm. Car does judder when pulling away when cold.
 
Reset fault, disconnected maf sensor, dyy try ove to work 25 miles. No difference still the same, no fault light. Does this mean that maf was not doung anything? (Defective)?
 
To stop the code just give it some beans when warm mate. The concerns you have are common on the 2.0. I have had mine for nearly 7 years now and am used to that code appearing randomly and it is always when forced to tootle along in traffic. The N46 needs to be thrashed to keep it "clear" so to speak.

It is also common to have clutch judder when cold, to overcome this just give it slightly more revs than you would when warm & slightly slip the clutch when taking up drive, been doing this for years with no problems. Some will say by removing the CDV will stop this. But it didn't stop mine doing it :(

Also a slightly lumpy idle is also common, annoying but nothing to worry about. But can be sorted by removing valvetronic adaptations using ista software.

Hope this helps. Cheers, tug :thumbsup:
 
tug said:
To stop the code just give it some beans when warm mate. The concerns you have are common on the 2.0. I have had mine for nearly 7 years now and am used to that code appearing randomly and it is always when forced to tootle along in traffic. The N46 needs to be thrashed to keep it "clear" so to speak.

It is also common to have clutch judder when cold, to overcome this just give it slightly more revs than you would when warm & slightly slip the clutch when taking up drive, been doing this for years with no problems. Some will say by removing the CDV will stop this. But it didn't stop mine doing it :(

Also a slightly lumpy idle is also common, annoying but nothing to worry about. But can be sorted by removing valvetronic adaptations using ista software.

Hope this helps. Cheers, tug :thumbsup:
I really like the fact that amongst all the straight six doom-mongers we actually have one sensible person running a 4-pot who can give unbiased advice and re-assure other 4-pot owners. I'm pretty sure that most of the issues can be resolved or prevented by careful maintenance. Maybe all the stories are fuelled by the fact that 4-pot owners are, in the main, less likely to be complete petrol-heads and therefore don't maintain their cars quite so rigorously?
Keep up the good work Tug. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks for that mate, i almost know the N46 inside out now, so when a new 4 pot owner raises concerns, i have already been there and learned how to remedy them so happy to pass on anything i can to allay their worries. :)
 
tug said:
Thanks for that mate, i almost know the N46 inside out now, so when a new 4 pot owner raises concerns, i have already been there and learned how to remedy them so happy to pass on anything i can to allay their worries. :)
You are the Robbi_Z4 of the 4-pot clique
:worshipbmw:
 
Thanks for the advice, rest code driven for two hours today and now brake light and etc light have come on! Car still driving fine. No code showing on torque app. Some post pointing at possible battery or fluid levels. Fluid level all good, will check battery tonight. I will get there with this car! As soon as no more faults then comes the body work treatment!
 
Equally only seems to be happening when car is getting hot, pipes are all very hot! Maybe fan/radiator issue? Any ways to check?
 
The 2.0 does run hot mate, as long as the temp gauge in the dash stays central yours will be ok. You mention lights coming on randomly, this strongly points to battery issues. Very weird things happen electronically with these cars when battery is dying. Check how old it is, or better still test it with a volt meter. There should be a date stamp on the negative terminal. :thumbsup:
 
clang0203 said:
Checked battery all good 12.6 - 14v when running. No faults today on daily commute!

Measuring the battery voltage with the car running is really just proving the alternator works & may be propping up an ailing battery, you need to test the battery again after the cars been sat for a few days (before starting the engine) to see how well it’s holding it’s charge.
Rob
 
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