Now a roof problem for me

Smartbear said:
Instructions for replacing the awkward to change microswitches that suffer from stretched springs.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89-z4-sdrive30i-roa/repair-manuals/54-slide-tilt-sunroof-soft-top/54-37-folding-roof/1VnY72z6aT
Rob

Hi rob,

This guide is excellent, but I do have one question. How do I get the rear lid to raise in order to access the components? :rofl:
 
Pooltee said:
How do I get the rear lid to raise in order to access the components? :rofl:

if your boot lid still moves, you just stop the opening/closing process where you need the lid to be

if it doesn't move, then depending on roof state, you can do emergency open/close - tools are required, so you may not want to go for it
 
Well I got my scanner back today, and this is the only fault code relating to the roof stored in the ECU.

Hopefully this is the case, and either the switch or wiring is the fault. Just need a few hours clear to do some more investigation.

Thanks all for your help to date. Hopefully the roof will be back up and running soon.

Paul
 

Attachments

  • BA5AF990-55A3-44D5-9B77-8DAFAE03A25C.jpeg
    BA5AF990-55A3-44D5-9B77-8DAFAE03A25C.jpeg
    398.7 KB · Views: 936
Pooltee said:
Smartbear said:
Instructions for replacing the awkward to change microswitches that suffer from stretched springs.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89-z4-sdrive30i-roa/repair-manuals/54-slide-tilt-sunroof-soft-top/54-37-folding-roof/1VnY72z6aT
Rob

Hi rob,

This guide is excellent, but I do have one question. How do I get the rear lid to raise in order to access the components? :rofl:

Dealer job to open an unwilling boot, unless you are able to false feed the module the required (missing)
input :?
9A41C09E-5BD7-4352-A5F9-EBE000E3831C.png
 
Smartbear said:
Pooltee said:
Smartbear said:
Instructions for replacing the awkward to change microswitches that suffer from stretched springs.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89-z4-sdrive30i-roa/repair-manuals/54-slide-tilt-sunroof-soft-top/54-37-folding-roof/1VnY72z6aT
Rob

Hi rob,

This guide is excellent, but I do have one question. How do I get the rear lid to raise in order to access the components? :rofl:

Dealer job to open an unwilling boot, unless you are able to false feed the module the required (missing)
input :?
9A41C09E-5BD7-4352-A5F9-EBE000E3831C.png
Hi Rob
Does this apply to UK cars?.. i didnt think we had the bowden cable pull option?

Cheers

Geoff
 
UK cars don't have the pull cable.
Even so if the system is not seeing that left microswitch, the boot may stay closed.
The pull cable still relies on electrical power to unlock the motors, so must be some interlock there, signal wise.

You need an advanced reader that can tell the system that switch is closed so the boot can be opened.
All sounds a bit similar to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3q52HtkK6mU&t=51s
 
We did one of these recently where the roof was stuck completely down. Required special tools to reopen. It turned out the wiring in the rear roof shell had broken. Normally with this wiring fault it will usually open as far as you’ve got where the rear roof shell just sits on the top of the front section and won’t allow the boot to open. For some reason on our customers vehicle we had it where it did the whole cycle to put the roof down and then the wiring broke.
 
If that is the case then i will fit the pull cable idea i have and see if i can open the boot.
But the white triangle it attaches to when operated seems to only unlatch so far then the motors start to run to unlatch.
Doesn't seem purely mechanical, but i will have another look.

So does the cable attach to the white triangle or somewhere on the left and right latch mechanism?
 
RobbiZ4 said:
flybobbie said:
The pull cable still relies on electrical power to unlock the motors, so must be some interlock there, signal wise.
Pardon, this is not quite correct. :wink:

The US pull cable indeed opens the locking by a mechanical connection to both latches. :P

I've refitted it in my Z4, but it must be replaced to another position than the planned one.

https://translate.google.de/translate?sl=de&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.zroadster.com%2Fforum%2Findex.php%3Fthreads%2Fz4-3-0i-schalter-zur-kofferraum%25C3%25B6ffnung-fehlt.120577%2Fpage-2%23post-2745373


And that's the way I'm able to open the door to the compartment:

https://translate.google.de/translate?sl=de&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.zroadster.com%2Fforum%2Findex.php%3Fthreads%2Fz4-3-0i-schalter-zur-kofferraum%25C3%25B6ffnung-fehlt.120577%2Fpage-3%23post-2752767

thank you for sharing

next project is decided
 
RobbiZ4 said:
flybobbie said:
Doesn't seem purely mechanical, but i will have another look.
It does. :rofl:

Have a look at my translated links.
The pull cable ends IN the white triangle, that itself pulls 2 pull cables from the latches.

I assume then that it unlatches before the motors start and fully wind back.
I will find out later when i try to fit my idea for boot release.
 
RobbiZ4 said:
flybobbie said:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=121779

Still needs electrical power to unlock.

For what?

For the motors to unwind and the hooks release. When i pull the wire, the locks unlock via the cables, the boot lifts several millimetres (at that point it might be possible to force the boot up, i didn't want to risk breaking something and the boot also pulls back down possibly trapping fingers) and the motors start up to pull back the latches. Pretty sure this is a safety thing, otherwise in a rear end shunt the boot might come free and take your head off if the roof was down.

If you can show me the boot open without power, i would be happy to know how that can be done.
If someone could disconnect the battery and close boot and then try to open the boot via pull cable, would be interesting.
 
I think anyone getting locked in the boot (kids messing about) would immediately pull the cord and get out, long before say the battery went flat.
 
Back
Top Bottom