Now a roof problem for me

Perhaps the relay contacts just cooled off a touch to make contact again?

Simple thing first
1/ Make sure battery fully charged and not more than say 7 years old. Long run might not charge as well as stop/start due to the regenerative braking thing. Perhaps it charges best when coasting down hill.
2/ Replace salmon relays.
3 /Check that connector hall sensor on the right boot ram, that seems a dodgy design.

After that code reader time.
 
Smartbear said:
obewan said:
A friend of mine was having similar symptoms with his roof last week - 2 days before his warranty ran out.
He tried my code reader, no codes evident.
Battery voltage wasn't great but he hadn't used the car for a number of weeks (He'd had the dreaded CV)
He couldn't get into the boot to check the battery age but charged it up anyway via the contact points under the bonnet
Still no joy

After contacting the warranty company he took it to the nominated local indie.
Their response (after connecting to their upmarket software) was that the 'roof had got out of sync' and the sensors were having a 'hissy fit'

They reset it all and said it was now working fine and should also be cycling quicker than it was.

The bad news was that it wasn't covered by the warranty, but as the bill was only £100 he wasn't particularly bothered

Ironically mine got stuck at the boot open stage at about the same time.
A bit like in Pbondar's case, repeated button presses got it closed and it's worked perfectly since
I've been trying it daily and my confidence is slowly returning :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

How old are your salmon relays? :?
Rob
Click to expand...

I have not changed the relays in my ownership. Do they have a date stamped on them to verify their age?

My local BMW dealers are closed at the moment, but I think I have round the right relay online if somebody could be kind enough to confirm if they are correct.

I completely forgot about these to be honest.

https://www.bmwpartsonline.co.uk/MobileDetail.php?Prod_ID=6023
 
Smartbear said:
obewan said:
A friend of mine was having similar symptoms with his roof last week - 2 days before his warranty ran out.
He tried my code reader, no codes evident.
Battery voltage wasn't great but he hadn't used the car for a number of weeks (He'd had the dreaded CV)
He couldn't get into the boot to check the battery age but charged it up anyway via the contact points under the bonnet
Still no joy

After contacting the warranty company he took it to the nominated local indie.
Their response (after connecting to their upmarket software) was that the 'roof had got out of sync' and the sensors were having a 'hissy fit'

They reset it all and said it was now working fine and should also be cycling quicker than it was.

The bad news was that it wasn't covered by the warranty, but as the bill was only £100 he wasn't particularly bothered

Ironically mine got stuck at the boot open stage at about the same time.
A bit like in Pbondar's case, repeated button presses got it closed and it's worked perfectly since
I've been trying it daily and my confidence is slowly returning :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

How old are your salmon relays? :?
Rob
Click to expand...

Hi Rob
I'd read your post on the Salmon relays and mentioned to my mate it could be a possibility.
His is a 2011 car, mine 2012.
From my point of view it's next on the list of to do's :thumbsup:
 
RobbiZ4 said:
obewan said:
Their response (after connecting to their upmarket software) was that the 'roof had got out of sync' and the sensors were having a 'hissy fit'
Click to expand...
That's nonsense! There can't get any "out of sync".

obewan said:
They reset it all and said it was now working fine and should also be cycling quicker than it was.
Click to expand...
Nonsense! There is noothing that can be resetted.

obewan said:
The bad news was that it wasn't covered by the warranty, but as the bill was only £100 he wasn't particularly bothered
Click to expand...
That was indeed very cheep compared to all the other nonsense tasks billed by BMW garages or indies. 8)
Click to expand...

Fair comment. Maybe it was the dismissive 'I can't be bothered to explain something technical' response
Whatever they did, it appears to have worked :thumbsup:
 
Well salmon relays swapped out with a couple of new ones today, and no difference, still the same problem.

I will hopefully have my scanner back tomorrow so will see if any fault codes pop up. I have a feeling this is going to be a big bill :(
 
flybobbie said:
Perhaps the relay contacts just cooled off a touch to make contact again?

Simple thing first
1/ Make sure battery fully charged and not more than say 7 years old. Long run might not charge as well as stop/start due to the regenerative braking thing. Perhaps it charges best when coasting down hill.
2/ Replace salmon relays.
3 /Check that connector hall sensor on the right boot ram, that seems a dodgy design.

After that code reader time.
Click to expand...

Does anybody have a picture of where the hall sensor connector is on the boot ram. I cannot see it for looking??
 
Pooltee said:
flybobbie said:
Perhaps the relay contacts just cooled off a touch to make contact again?

Simple thing first
1/ Make sure battery fully charged and not more than say 7 years old. Long run might not charge as well as stop/start due to the regenerative braking thing. Perhaps it charges best when coasting down hill.
2/ Replace salmon relays.
3 /Check that connector hall sensor on the right boot ram, that seems a dodgy design.

After that code reader time.
Click to expand...

Does anybody have a picture of where the hall sensor connector is on the boot ram. I cannot see it for looking??
Click to expand...
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=106166
 
Thank you very much mate. Can now confirm that the connections are the relays are not the problem.

However the fault has now got worse. The rear screen nearly moves at all now before everything stops and I get the warning.

The motor sounds like it is straining before it cuts out ( this is with engine running so healthy system voltage).

I am not convinced this is a switch / sensor issue. I really hope it’s not the pump :cry:
 
RobbiZ4 said:
Pooltee said:
I am not convinced this is a switch / sensor issue. I really hope it’s not the pump :cry:
Click to expand...

Once again:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1739356&sid=1a6fcc7d9cf0fce2f03ac1174b47d1cc#p1739356

Really interesting that you are ignoring all hints, while you don't have any clue how this roof works. But on the other hand, you already know how expensive it is. :rofl:
Pooltee said:
So an expensive repair,
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I am in no way ignoring hints. But you are confusing me some what. Others have given clear advise and I am able to follow this and perform these checks confidently.

I asked if replacing the switches etc was a reasonably easy diy job, to which you replied no, and then went in the explain what a tw*t of a job it was ( or that’s how i understood your post anyway) I then assumed that because it was a difficult job it would be an expensive one as the two usually go hand in hand. After this you say is between 1-1.5 hours of work.

What you are not telling me is 1) this is something I can do myself, 2) what I actually need to be looking for to carrying on diagnosing the issue, 3) any evidence of what the problem might actually be...

Others have given suggestions on small and inexpensive items to replace first and what connections to check, which I have done.

Do I know how the roof works? I know how to open and lower it with the buttons, and that is the extent of my knowledge. At no point have I claimed any expertise in the mechanics of the system, nor do I actually have any. What I do have however is a forum of people who have experienced a wide range of issues with the roofs on these cars, and I was hoping for a little help in identifying the fault so that I can either have a good go at fixing the fault, or explain to a garage what my understanding of the fault is and get a quote to repair it.

If you are in a position to help, have a good idea what the issue is, and are able to give me a bit of a walk through on rectifying said issue, I would love to hear more from you.
 
Instructions for replacing the awkward to change microswitches that suffer from stretched springs.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89-z4-sdrive30i-roa/repair-manuals/54-slide-tilt-sunroof-soft-top/54-37-folding-roof/1VnY72z6aT
Rob
 
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