No Crank after replacing key fob. Please help!

[GnomeDoctor]

Hi. I just bought a used 2005 2.5L Z4 and it only had one key and the remote wasn't working. The car ran great, no engineer lights on dash or anything. The key is a normal steel key. So I ordered a replacement blanks from Amazon and reprogramed them as the instructions said. And now the doors lock and unlock as well as the trunk lid with the remote but now the car won't crack. What did I do wrong?

 

[Nick2449]

Hi, I'm sure someone will be along shortly better informed than me but it sounds like the immobiliser. This is a tiny little chip in the key that has to be programmed to the Ecu. In my limited experie ce this requires a car locksmith with the right computer kit to program. Do a search for one and hopefully you will get someone who will come out to you. To check this put the old key next to the new one when starting the car and it should start.

 

[MACK]

As above youve only reprogrammed the central locking to the new fob, not the immobiliser module which IIRC has to be removed and coded to the key

 

[buzyg]

Agree with the above. Three parts to most modern car keys.

The physical key, that turns the door and ignition locks?

The key fob, often a separate unit. Operates the gadgets, door locks, windows, roof etc.

And the immobilizer chip, operates with the key in the zed. The ECU has to be programmed to execpt the chip, local car locksmith, should be able to code it. The ECU will hold any old key codes, so if you do not know where the old keys are, then get any old codes cleared.

 

[IAmOrion]

Hi. I just bought a used 2005 2.5L Z4 and it only had one key and the remote wasn't working. The car ran great, no engineer lights on dash or anything. The key is a normal steel key. So I ordered a replacement blanks from Amazon and reprogramed them as the instructions said. And now the doors lock and unlock as well as the trunk lid with the remote but now the car won't crack. What did I do wrong?

Doesn’t work like that I’m afraid. The keys still contain a transponder that need to be coded to the car.

The “programming” you’ve done is simply making the car accept the remote - you still need to program the transponder for the immobilizer

 

[srhutch]

Something like this should help if you want to do yourself

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32695407194.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.49d046b5SMrK1a&algo_pvid=35908f3e-55ab-4b92-b065-48a8e9722b7b&algo_expid=35908f3e-55ab-4b92-b065-48a8e9722b7b-13&btsid=cf2937e4-0dd7-4d53-bccb-96925f9d767b&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3,searchweb201603_52

 

[GnomeDoctor]

Awesome. Thanks a lot.

 

[colb]

Just been through this with my Z4 key, only had one key, I bought key blanks from ebay and had them cut by a local locksmith so they worked the door, boot and ignition locks. I then used a AK90 coding machine also obtained from ebay and had a go at coding the new keys. You have to remove the EWS module from the car, its behind the side panel in the right hand drivers footwell, secured in there with a 10mm nut. Once out the internal circuit board has to be removed and using the AK90 coding machine read the processor chip on the board, the AK90 is connected to a laptop and the EWS software will download the Bin file which contains the cars details. It uses the Bin file to code the key. It involvesw writing the data in the Bin file to the small transponder chip in the key.
Try as I did I vcould not get a key successfully coded using the AK90, said key was ok but wouldn't start the car. Gave up in the end and sought out a mobile locksmith who used another coding machine and pulled the car Bin file using a different methos than the AK90, he pulled the key data from the eeprom on the circuit board and used that data to code my key. First try was to code it to key slot 8 which didn't crank the car, recoded to key slot 3 and I had a working key. Charged me £120, cheaper than getting one from BMW.
I also have BMW Scanner 1.4 which is a diagnostic software, with that you can explore all the modules on the car including the EWS system and can view what keys are coded to your car. In my case it listed three keys in use and indicated that they were all authorised for use with correct Vin number and password assigned to them. It listed key slots 4 to 10 as not authorised. Previous attempts at coding to these unauthorised slots failed to get a working key.
Spoke to quite a few people on here who have coded keys with an AK90 and have said how easy it was to do, proved very different when I tried and I know I was doing it right, came to the conclusion I had a bad AK90 machine.
IamOrion posted on here earlier, he was very helpful and had a look at what I was doing remotely on my laptop, if you are anywhere near him he may be able to code it for you as he uses the AK90 with good results.
My advice if your nowhere near him would be to find a mobile locksmith to come and code your key, saves a lot of trouble at the end of the day.

 

[rsutoratosu]

I have in my house ak90+ and the cnc key cutter... yes I bought both. If you are anywhere near NYC, I can help you program your key with ak90+ and even cut you extra.. I bought a bag of blank keys too.

 

[IAmOrion]

I have in my house ak90+ and the cnc key cutter... yes I bought both. If you are anywhere near NYC, I can help you program your key with ak90+ and even cut you extra.. I bought a bag of blank keys too.

What CNC Key cutter did you buy?

 

[rsutoratosu]

368A cutter, the orange looking one on ebay you see on all the key videos

 

[IAmOrion]

368A cutter, the orange looking one on ebay you see on all the key videos

Ah ok - not a CNC cutter then as there's no computer involved lol

How do you find that one? I also have the 368A and I have to say, I find it so hit and miss doing Z4 keys - I struggle to find that sweet spot that does doors AND ignition smoothly.