Royal steering wheels website has a small gallery of z4 wheels to look at
http://royalsteeringwheels.com/bmw-z-series/
http://royalsteeringwheels.com/bmw-z-series/
Newbie with a serious tuning disorder.
- Thread starter Stevie.w
- Start date
Managed to steal some time for my self and my project. So I pulled it on to the lift and started to remove complete rear axle. Fairly straight forward process as all standard setup. You'll have to excuse the workshop as kinda late and wanting to get home.
I've gathered most of the parts to complete the rear axle conversion to E46 M3.
My brother popped in with my new bells and mounts that's just been hard anodised, so I've mocked up one of the fronts. I'm well impressed with the way the anodising has the factory look I'm always looking to achieve
I've gathered most of the parts to complete the rear axle conversion to E46 M3.
My brother popped in with my new bells and mounts that's just been hard anodised, so I've mocked up one of the fronts. I'm well impressed with the way the anodising has the factory look I'm always looking to achieve
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simonlpearce
Senior member
More and more excellent work. Love this thing!
I saw you painted your trailing arms.
It might be a good idea to apply some clear undercoating on them, especially on the area where that m logo is.
I also painted may trailing arms but after 6 months or so (few K miles, its a garaged non daily) that area already started to rust again. It gets a lot of stones etc.
After cleaning it up again and applying multiple layers of clear undercoating it's now still fine.
I used Tectyl glasklar (some valvoline product; it's like a clear laquer but more soft&flexible), but I don't know what you can get in the UK.
Did you make those front caliper brackets yourself?
It might be a good idea to apply some clear undercoating on them, especially on the area where that m logo is.
I also painted may trailing arms but after 6 months or so (few K miles, its a garaged non daily) that area already started to rust again. It gets a lot of stones etc.
After cleaning it up again and applying multiple layers of clear undercoating it's now still fine.
I used Tectyl glasklar (some valvoline product; it's like a clear laquer but more soft&flexible), but I don't know what you can get in the UK.
Did you make those front caliper brackets yourself?
I'm trying my best Simon. Hoping to have rear end completed tomorrow, then I'll size the last part of prop and maybe able to take it round the block. Darn forgot I have to make up custom brake lines as aftermarket braided ones don't match my calipers.simonlpearce said:
Yesterday spent whole day'ish on motor and I prep'd the underside of the rear for its transplant to M3. So I made up new brake lines as original ones were showing signs of corrosion. Best done while subframe was out, then I prep'd the body work and coated it with Raptor bed liner for sound insulation. Rather nasty to work with but Wow is tough, can hardly put a mark on it. Certainly does what it says on the tin.
Once it had gone of I installed the rear subframe including diff, now I can complete the rear section of the prop and send it of for balancing.
After a bit of browsing I located a plate that I feel is perfect for the Z4, remember my business is SW Motorsport
Once it had gone of I installed the rear subframe including diff, now I can complete the rear section of the prop and send it of for balancing.
After a bit of browsing I located a plate that I feel is perfect for the Z4, remember my business is SW Motorsport
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Well things were going to plan concerning the custom prop, all mocked up and ready to be tig'd up as per pics. Then I thought let's start to put the rear end together for good. Mmm no happening, made a classic school boy error and didn't pre assemble the lateral arms on to subframe prior to fitting diff. Now need to drop it all down remove diff and fit them first before diff.
So now thinking yeh should have it all buttoned up tomorrow, but by now the old cogs were turning freely and thoughts of adjustable arms reared their ugly head :evil:. So if purchased I would have to go thru the same old procedure. Doesn't matter how much prep and organising you do there's always something to knock you down.
The pics of the prop aren't great but it lets you see what's involved in making custom items. I normally call custom (grief)
So now thinking yeh should have it all buttoned up tomorrow, but by now the old cogs were turning freely and thoughts of adjustable arms reared their ugly head :evil:. So if purchased I would have to go thru the same old procedure. Doesn't matter how much prep and organising you do there's always something to knock you down.
The pics of the prop aren't great but it lets you see what's involved in making custom items. I normally call custom (grief)
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Been looking at adjustable rear camber arms for the Z4 and e bay's littered with them. So thought I'd look a little further afield and came up with this company ECS tuning in the states. Their arms look very well made and from top grade materials.
Just wondering if any members have used these.
Just wondering if any members have used these.
Well ECS camber arms arrived after 65.5 hrs from ordering them all the way from other side of the states . They are a lovely bit of kit, especially as both bodies are billet machined and very stealth to go along with the whole project. 
Time to progress and see if I can actually drive it this weekend
Oh won't have panels fitted tho, so it'll probably resemble a Z1.
. They are a lovely bit of kit, especially as both bodies are billet machined and very stealth to go along with the whole project. Time to progress and see if I can actually drive it this weekend
Oh won't have panels fitted tho, so it'll probably resemble a Z1.Attachments
simonlpearce
Senior member
Thats some impressive lead time right there. Love it when things arrive sooner than expected.
Thought I had done my home work concerning the prop mod! Seems using machined inserts is a no no, I sent it away for balancing only to find it runs out by .020". Normally a prop will be within 0.001", so it's virtually scrap. Hopefully the guy doing it says he can machine both ends and make it a solid prop without centre bearing. I wasn't to keen on this route as BMW designed it with a bearing, but he assures me anything under 1.5 meters won't require one. Oh and it'll be way stronger.
Over the weekend I've completed the back end and made up custom brake lines as nothing out there that's compatible. I'll get some pics and post up.
Over the weekend I've completed the back end and made up custom brake lines as nothing out there that's compatible. I'll get some pics and post up.
So how do you extend (or shorten) a propshaft?
You cut it and use an inner sleeve, or is this outer measurement turned on a lathe and an outer sleeve fitted?
I'd say use an inner sleeve in slight oversize, heat the propshaft and cool the innersleeve, and crimp fit it in place. After that weld the edges.
You cut it and use an inner sleeve, or is this outer measurement turned on a lathe and an outer sleeve fitted?
I'd say use an inner sleeve in slight oversize, heat the propshaft and cool the innersleeve, and crimp fit it in place. After that weld the edges.
