My current project - Retrofit iDrive
- Thread starter AnubisZed
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Hi all
How do you find out if you have a combox fitted or not.... Simply if you cant stream music its not fitted?
i have just done the vin lookup thing... my car was supplied with S609a Navigation Professional. Reading up on this..this seems to include 'enhanced bluetooth' which should include music streaming...is this correct...
How do you find out if you have a combox fitted or not.... Simply if you cant stream music its not fitted?
i have just done the vin lookup thing... my car was supplied with S609a Navigation Professional. Reading up on this..this seems to include 'enhanced bluetooth' which should include music streaming...is this correct...
Hi Dave,
Many thanks for the warm welcome… and great advice.
I had a feeling that swopping the cage over would be an interesting challenge, but you’ve given me an advantage here, as I now know which way to work at it. Even if I get stuck, I know it’s possible, because you’ve managed it!
Actually I’m not too worried about the mechanics of fitting the parts, but getting the wiring right is my main concern at the moment. As previously mentioned I’m not rushing this project, the installation is all part of the 'fun' for me, so I’m going to take my time. I will also keep this thread updated, so that my trials and tribulations might help others.
Haven’t had time to research a GPS receiver yet, but I have been looking at CIC Emulators. I’ve found one on Ebay “BMW CIC retrofit adapter emulator,video in motion,navi,voice control activation, £55”. Any good or should I look elsewhere? If I go for the plug and play version, I can simply tap into it’s canbus and power lines and make up a sub loom for the controller and screen as you have done. Infact that seems like the best way to approach it – thanks for the tip Did you just tuck the emulator in behind the cage?
All will no doubt be clearer when the parts arrive and I can see what I’ve got in the way of cables. I’ll keep you updated and post some pics.
Thanks again all your help.
Kevin
Many thanks for the warm welcome… and great advice.
I had a feeling that swopping the cage over would be an interesting challenge, but you’ve given me an advantage here, as I now know which way to work at it. Even if I get stuck, I know it’s possible, because you’ve managed it!
Actually I’m not too worried about the mechanics of fitting the parts, but getting the wiring right is my main concern at the moment. As previously mentioned I’m not rushing this project, the installation is all part of the 'fun' for me, so I’m going to take my time. I will also keep this thread updated, so that my trials and tribulations might help others.
Haven’t had time to research a GPS receiver yet, but I have been looking at CIC Emulators. I’ve found one on Ebay “BMW CIC retrofit adapter emulator,video in motion,navi,voice control activation, £55”. Any good or should I look elsewhere? If I go for the plug and play version, I can simply tap into it’s canbus and power lines and make up a sub loom for the controller and screen as you have done. Infact that seems like the best way to approach it – thanks for the tip Did you just tuck the emulator in behind the cage?
All will no doubt be clearer when the parts arrive and I can see what I’ve got in the way of cables. I’ll keep you updated and post some pics.
Thanks again all your help.
Kevin
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Mojito said:
I was fortunate that the insurance company glass supplier local manager was on top of his game..
He stated that many of his subordinates had f€%&ed up these combo gps/rain sensing windscreen installations so he personally did all those versions..he was meticulous and it was a perfect fit..I did have the luxury of having the car at home and had to wait for 10 days for a genuine screen to come from Germany
Hi All,
An update on where I am with my iDrive retrofit. The main components are still enroute from Lithuania, so following Dave's excellent advice on the installation, I've now ordered a GPs receiver and an emulator. The GPS receiver was easy to source and just for once a cheap component! I plan on mounting it under the dashtop grill, so basically found an aftermarket one that had good reviews, works when mounted in dash and had the right connector... we shall see if I've chosen well in due course! Sourced through Amazon £10.
The emulator has proved a bit more difficult. Plenty listed on ebay, but finding one that will definately work in my E89 setup not quite so easy. I contacted several UK sellers and either got negatives or no reply at all. I just might need a bit of support, so contacted a supplier in Lithuania..... why is it that I'm buying most bits from Lithuania! Very helpful and quick response, so ordered 'plug and play' version as I'm again taking Dave's advice (thank you Dave once again) and tapping into the emulator loom for connections to iDrive controller and Screen. That way I can make up a sub loom that is ready to plug in when I get to the actual installation. The emulator was considerably more expensive than most available in UK, but I'm confident it's a quality one and support is available - £120. Final order today was a roll of fabric loom tape as I'm keen to make a neat job of this.
An update on where I am with my iDrive retrofit. The main components are still enroute from Lithuania, so following Dave's excellent advice on the installation, I've now ordered a GPs receiver and an emulator. The GPS receiver was easy to source and just for once a cheap component! I plan on mounting it under the dashtop grill, so basically found an aftermarket one that had good reviews, works when mounted in dash and had the right connector... we shall see if I've chosen well in due course! Sourced through Amazon £10.
The emulator has proved a bit more difficult. Plenty listed on ebay, but finding one that will definately work in my E89 setup not quite so easy. I contacted several UK sellers and either got negatives or no reply at all. I just might need a bit of support, so contacted a supplier in Lithuania..... why is it that I'm buying most bits from Lithuania! Very helpful and quick response, so ordered 'plug and play' version as I'm again taking Dave's advice (thank you Dave once again) and tapping into the emulator loom for connections to iDrive controller and Screen. That way I can make up a sub loom that is ready to plug in when I get to the actual installation. The emulator was considerably more expensive than most available in UK, but I'm confident it's a quality one and support is available - £120. Final order today was a roll of fabric loom tape as I'm keen to make a neat job of this.
Attachments
Hi R.E92,
Well, I'm still very much learning as I go on this and think I should defer to someone with more knwledge than me. My understanding though is that you can either use an emulator or have it script activated. An emulator is a simple solution, but for me script activation would be a nightmare I simply do not understand. I'm told emulators can give sluggish operation.... I shall find out in due course! I'm sure someone can give a proper technical answer.
Well, I'm still very much learning as I go on this and think I should defer to someone with more knwledge than me. My understanding though is that you can either use an emulator or have it script activated. An emulator is a simple solution, but for me script activation would be a nightmare I simply do not understand. I'm told emulators can give sluggish operation.... I shall find out in due course! I'm sure someone can give a proper technical answer.
An emulator sounds like a bad solution to me. I'd start a thread asking about it on E90post.
I know the inner workings of the nav units has been blown wide open in the last couple of years. I recently updated the maps on my brothers NBT equipped car and generating the relevant FSC codes was a 10min DIY job.
I know the inner workings of the nav units has been blown wide open in the last couple of years. I recently updated the maps on my brothers NBT equipped car and generating the relevant FSC codes was a 10min DIY job.
OK, well to answer the point on the emulator here, and I'll state now that I'm not saying anyone is wrong, this is just what has happened to myself!! 
Right I ordered and fitted an emulator as this is what I'd found when looking into all of this.
When I came to update the maps to 2020 it still asked me for the FSC code before it would let me update, which I thought was a little odd as it should have just continued having the emulator already there. Fortunately I'd already got the FSC code anyway so was able to just continue with the update.
So was it worth it? Well for the £30 it cost me (bought from AliExpress, shipped over in plenty of time before I needed it) it's there and has now also been modified to accommodate the leads for the iDrive Controller and screen (power + canbus) rather than break into the OEM loom with limited access.
Right I ordered and fitted an emulator as this is what I'd found when looking into all of this.
When I came to update the maps to 2020 it still asked me for the FSC code before it would let me update, which I thought was a little odd as it should have just continued having the emulator already there. Fortunately I'd already got the FSC code anyway so was able to just continue with the update.
So was it worth it? Well for the £30 it cost me (bought from AliExpress, shipped over in plenty of time before I needed it) it's there and has now also been modified to accommodate the leads for the iDrive Controller and screen (power + canbus) rather than break into the OEM loom with limited access.
UPDATE (again!) 
Full ICOM has now been ordered and will be on the way shortly. New (third, 500GB) hard drive is ready to be installed on the laptop along with a dual-boot OS (Win 7) to load all the software onto (Yes I'm aware some people say it can be installed on Win 10 but I couldn't get it to work so decided to do it this way ). So hopefully I'll be sorted with full Bluetooth within a couple of weeks........ well I hope so anyway :?
Full ICOM has now been ordered and will be on the way shortly. New (third, 500GB) hard drive is ready to be installed on the laptop along with a dual-boot OS (Win 7) to load all the software onto (Yes I'm aware some people say it can be installed on Win 10 but I couldn't get it to work so decided to do it this way
). So hopefully I'll be sorted with full Bluetooth within a couple of weeks........ well I hope so anyway :?Interesting updates Dave.
I'm also making a bit of progress, but just wanted to check with you if it's okay to discuss my retrofit progress/cries for help (!) on a thread you started about your own iDrive retrofit. I would hate to offend and quite understand if I should start a new thread. New to the forum and want to doing things correctly.
Thanks Kevin
I'm also making a bit of progress, but just wanted to check with you if it's okay to discuss my retrofit progress/cries for help (!) on a thread you started about your own iDrive retrofit. I would hate to offend and quite understand if I should start a new thread. New to the forum and want to doing things correctly.
Thanks Kevin
Hi Dave,
Thanks, that makes a lot of sense . I’ll start a new thread when I get a moment – “Another iDrive retrofit”. It’s going to be peppered with loads of references to your project anyway, because without your lead and inspiration I simply wouldn’t have taken this on! If I need help I’ll probably post a cry for help on your thread. Talking of which…….
So a delivery from Lithuania a couple of days ago and I’m well pleased, all looks to be in very good condition. I’ve now got all the parts, including that vital cage, with the exception of the emulator and it’s plug and play loom. Following your mention of FSC codes and the need for one when updating maps, I did a bit more research. I might be wrong, but I don’t think the emulator will get round this, but I stand to be corrected. Fortunately I had secured the VIN for my donor car, so a code can always be generated from this. So much to learn…
I’ve been working on the wiring for the controller and screen. There is loads of information out there on this for retrofits on other BMW models, but little that is specific to E89. I assumed initially that wiring these components would be pretty standard across the BMW range, but there is conflicting information on colours/pins out there. So if I may, can I check the following with you, suspect you or another member will know, having been there! Photos attached to make clearer.
Screen : 4 x wires : Orange, Grey, Blue, Yellow. In my case these then go to a 4 pin keyed connector as follows.
Pin 1 - Orange to Yellow/Red. Positive?
Pin 2 - Grey to Brown/Black. Ground?
Pin 3 – Blue to Orange/Green (Twisted Pair) Pretty sure that’s K-Can High
Pin 4 – Yellow to Green (Twisted Pair) Pretty sure that’s K-Can Low
iDrive Controller (2013 – 9285447 01)
Confusing because only three wires out of the 4 pin plug! Based on wire colours this doesn’t match at all to what I had been expecting each pin to be….
Pin 1 Black – Ground?
Pin 2 White – K-Can Low?
Pin 3 Yellow – K-Can High?
Pin 4 …. No wire. Positive feed?
(My research indicated it should be:
Pin 1 – Positive feed
Pin 2 - Ground
Pin 3 – K-Can High
Pin 4 – K-Can Low)
Hope all this makes sense and sorry for the long post. Thanks all your help.
Cheers Kevin
Thanks, that makes a lot of sense . I’ll start a new thread when I get a moment – “Another iDrive retrofit”. It’s going to be peppered with loads of references to your project anyway, because without your lead and inspiration I simply wouldn’t have taken this on! If I need help I’ll probably post a cry for help on your thread. Talking of which…….
So a delivery from Lithuania a couple of days ago and I’m well pleased, all looks to be in very good condition. I’ve now got all the parts, including that vital cage, with the exception of the emulator and it’s plug and play loom. Following your mention of FSC codes and the need for one when updating maps, I did a bit more research. I might be wrong, but I don’t think the emulator will get round this, but I stand to be corrected. Fortunately I had secured the VIN for my donor car, so a code can always be generated from this. So much to learn…
I’ve been working on the wiring for the controller and screen. There is loads of information out there on this for retrofits on other BMW models, but little that is specific to E89. I assumed initially that wiring these components would be pretty standard across the BMW range, but there is conflicting information on colours/pins out there. So if I may, can I check the following with you, suspect you or another member will know, having been there! Photos attached to make clearer.
Screen : 4 x wires : Orange, Grey, Blue, Yellow. In my case these then go to a 4 pin keyed connector as follows.
Pin 1 - Orange to Yellow/Red. Positive?
Pin 2 - Grey to Brown/Black. Ground?
Pin 3 – Blue to Orange/Green (Twisted Pair) Pretty sure that’s K-Can High
Pin 4 – Yellow to Green (Twisted Pair) Pretty sure that’s K-Can Low
iDrive Controller (2013 – 9285447 01)
Confusing because only three wires out of the 4 pin plug! Based on wire colours this doesn’t match at all to what I had been expecting each pin to be….
Pin 1 Black – Ground?
Pin 2 White – K-Can Low?
Pin 3 Yellow – K-Can High?
Pin 4 …. No wire. Positive feed?
(My research indicated it should be:
Pin 1 – Positive feed
Pin 2 - Ground
Pin 3 – K-Can High
Pin 4 – K-Can Low)
Hope all this makes sense and sorry for the long post. Thanks all your help.
Cheers Kevin
Attachments
Mojito's iDrive retrofit update. Hi Dave, posted here as half way through this query on your thread. Will now start my own 
Following my post ref. wiring for screen and iDrive controller I've scoured the net, countless photos and forums, and think I've finally got it. If I'm right (!) pin wiring for the screen is as I previously thought:
4 x wires from screen : Orange, Grey, Blue, Yellow. In my case these then go through a 4 pin keyed connector as follows.
Pin 1 - Orange to Yellow/Red. Positive
Pin 2 - Grey to Brown/Black. Ground
Pin 3 – Blue to Orange/Green (Twisted Pair) K-Can High
Pin 4 – Yellow to Green (Twisted Pair) K-Can Low
The idrive controller should be wired as my previous research indicated, not as I summised it might be. I'm ignoring the 4 pin keyed connector with three wires that came with the controller, as I think it's a red herring. These connectors have multiple uses and I don't think this was the original iDrive connector.... three wires only is a bit of a giveaway! So, again if I'm right, iDrive wiring should be:
Pin 1 – Positive feed
Pin 2 - Ground
Pin 3 – K-Can High
Pin 4 – K-Can Low
If you or anyone else can confirm or otherwise that would be reassuring. Cheers.
Half the fun is the research and the other half is going to be battling with removing half the car to fit it......
Following my post ref. wiring for screen and iDrive controller I've scoured the net, countless photos and forums, and think I've finally got it. If I'm right (!) pin wiring for the screen is as I previously thought:
4 x wires from screen : Orange, Grey, Blue, Yellow. In my case these then go through a 4 pin keyed connector as follows.
Pin 1 - Orange to Yellow/Red. Positive
Pin 2 - Grey to Brown/Black. Ground
Pin 3 – Blue to Orange/Green (Twisted Pair) K-Can High
Pin 4 – Yellow to Green (Twisted Pair) K-Can Low
The idrive controller should be wired as my previous research indicated, not as I summised it might be. I'm ignoring the 4 pin keyed connector with three wires that came with the controller, as I think it's a red herring. These connectors have multiple uses and I don't think this was the original iDrive connector.... three wires only is a bit of a giveaway! So, again if I'm right, iDrive wiring should be:
Pin 1 – Positive feed
Pin 2 - Ground
Pin 3 – K-Can High
Pin 4 – K-Can Low
If you or anyone else can confirm or otherwise that would be reassuring. Cheers.
Half the fun is the research and the other half is going to be battling with removing half the car to fit it......
Sorry bud, I've been off-line for a few days as I'm busy with non-BMW projects....Mojito said:Mojito's iDrive retrofit update. Hi Dave, posted here as half way through this query on your thread. Will now start my own
Following my post ref. wiring for screen and iDrive controller I've scoured the net, countless photos and forums, and think I've finally got it. If I'm right (!) pin wiring for the screen is as I previously thought:
4 x wires from screen : Orange, Grey, Blue, Yellow. In my case these then go through a 4 pin keyed connector as follows.
Pin 1 - Orange to Yellow/Red. Positive
Pin 2 - Grey to Brown/Black. Ground
Pin 3 – Blue to Orange/Green (Twisted Pair) K-Can High
Pin 4 – Yellow to Green (Twisted Pair) K-Can Low
The idrive controller should be wired as my previous research indicated, not as I summised it might be. I'm ignoring the 4 pin keyed connector with three wires that came with the controller, as I think it's a red herring. These connectors have multiple uses and I don't think this was the original iDrive connector.... three wires only is a bit of a giveaway! So, again if I'm right, iDrive wiring should be:
Pin 1 – Positive feed
Pin 2 - Ground
Pin 3 – K-Can High
Pin 4 – K-Can Low
If you or anyone else can confirm or otherwise that would be reassuring. Cheers.
Half the fun is the research and the other half is going to be battling with removing half the car to fit it......
This is the wiring diagram for the controller...
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89-z4-sdrive35i-roa/wiring-functional-info/body/operation/controller/2dbZ4fzL
And the CID (screen)...
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89-z4-sdrive35i-roa/wiring-functional-info/body/display-information-functions/display-function/voltage-supply-for-cid-central-information-display/INAlGSNc
I use this site for all of my wiring info.
Hi Dave,
I'm taking my time on this project, absolutely no urgency, but I really appreciate your help. Thank you.
So I've learnt two things here... firstly where to go for wiring info and secondly not to assume that just because a piece of second hand equipment comes with a connector, that it was the connector originally wired to that point :lol: The iDrive connector was indeed a red herring and clearly came from elsewhere. on the car. I've already sourced another (with 4 pins!). Pleased though that I had at least realised something wasnt quite right.....
I've now started my own thread - "Another idrive retrofit" - just to avoid confusion. It clearly links back to you though... I'm just following your lead Thanks again I'll keep you updated. Kevin
I'm taking my time on this project, absolutely no urgency, but I really appreciate your help. Thank you.
So I've learnt two things here... firstly where to go for wiring info and secondly not to assume that just because a piece of second hand equipment comes with a connector, that it was the connector originally wired to that point :lol: The iDrive connector was indeed a red herring and clearly came from elsewhere. on the car. I've already sourced another (with 4 pins!). Pleased though that I had at least realised something wasnt quite right.....
I've now started my own thread - "Another idrive retrofit" - just to avoid confusion. It clearly links back to you though... I'm just following your lead
Thanks again I'll keep you updated. Kevin
Let me know if you need any help working with the ICOM.
One thing to keep in mind before using it on the MOST bus is that you need to ensure that there is a DHCP server available. The ICOM relies on a DHCP server to assign IP addresses so will fail to program the CIC without DHCP. The BMW guidelines state you need to connect both to a router before programming but I connect it directly to the laptop and run a local DHCP server as a workaround (https://www.dhcpserver.de/cms/).
One thing to keep in mind before using it on the MOST bus is that you need to ensure that there is a DHCP server available. The ICOM relies on a DHCP server to assign IP addresses so will fail to program the CIC without DHCP. The BMW guidelines state you need to connect both to a router before programming but I connect it directly to the laptop and run a local DHCP server as a workaround (https://www.dhcpserver.de/cms/).
