My current project - Retrofit iDrive

[AnubisZed]

Is your CarPlay wireless? can you connect via bluetooth to both the CarPlay MMI box and to the BMW phone bluetooth at the same time? also what is the call quality like for phone calls when in CarPlay? I ask because my mate recently had this type of box fitted to his Mercedes although his is a wired model. If he is connected via bluetooth to the Mercedes Command and connected via cable to the CarPlay box at the same time, he can't get any audio through the car when in CarPlay he has to switch off the bluetooth connection to the car for it to work. Also I noticed that the call quality for the phone in CarPlay mode wasn't great.

Alas I can't answer this at the moment, as I'm still having issues with the Bluetooth activation. But I see no reason why it should have an inpact as you should be able to connect to 2 different Bluetooth devices at the same time.

EDIT** CarPlay and Android Auto are both wireless and both wired as well.

 

[AnubisZed]

**Another update**

great work indeed... I'm very impressed. Although it looked a nightmare when you took the dash apart.. hopefully no squeaks from the dash after that!

Now all you need to do is swap out the manual gearbox for the DCT, and upgrade to the 3litre... surely that's all just coding work :rofl:

Thank you as I had no headunit in today (Japanese one was removed and boxed to be sent back and new one arrived later today) I could listen to the car and can honestly say I did not hear any squeaks at all from the dash 8)

 

[AnubisZed]

Great work..out of interest you referred to acquiring an ICOM interface to do some of the coding...could you not do it with the old USB/DCAN type connector?

He needs to program the MULF which lives on the MOST bus. The normal K+DCAN cable can only communicate on the CAN network.

The ICOM unit has multiple heads which give it the ability to connect to the MOST bus in the car.

Yes indeed. I've now tried everything and nothing will work so my only option is to get hold of an ICOM and try that way.

New (UK) headunit is now installed and working perfectly I checked the maps out and it is all working perfectly (picking up the sat location properly) and had maps from 2012 on it, so 45 minutes later, and a bit of a drive around, and I now have fully activated 2020-2 maps installed

So all is good and I'm very happy with the end result, everything (except bluetooth) is working as it should.

 

[Silverstar]

Dave, how did you connect the CarPlay box? I have been looking at the installation for this and it seems you have to run a cable from the Mmi 7 CarPlay box to the aux port under the armrest and plug into it and you also have to mount a mic (supplied with the kit) somewhere on the dash. Both of which I'd rather avoid, did you have to do this?

 

[AnubisZed]

Dave, how did you connect the CarPlay box? I have been looking at the installation for this and it seems you have to run a cable from the Mmi 7 CarPlay box to the aux port under the armrest and plug into it and you also have to mount a mic (supplied with the kit) somewhere on the dash. Both of which I'd rather avoid, did you have to do this?

In short yes, but......
With the AUX because the current input goes through the MULF or Combox (depending which you have) then the input can only be picked up via the AUX socket. I ran the wire, took the rubber mat out of the centre console and drilled a hole in the plastic base. Then cut a discrete slit in the rubber and fed the plug through, it's hardly noticeable now.
As for the microphone I have used the supplied cable but only while I have the current Bluetooth problem (as it's not picking up the microphone input as it goes through the MULF). I just happened to have a spare OEM e89 microphone so located it in the second slot in the steering column cowl. But as yours is a working system then you really shouldn't have to do this, it should pick up from your existing microphone. And even if it doesn't you can pick up a MINI microphone for only £18 from Ebay (it's cheaper then the e89 microphone and is the same spec and fitting shape)

 

[Silverstar]

Dave, how did you connect the CarPlay box? I have been looking at the installation for this and it seems you have to run a cable from the Mmi 7 CarPlay box to the aux port under the armrest and plug into it and you also have to mount a mic (supplied with the kit) somewhere on the dash. Both of which I'd rather avoid, did you have to do this?

In short yes, but......
With the AUX because the current input goes through the MULF or Combox (depending which you have) then the input can only be picked up via the AUX socket. I ran the wire, took the rubber mat out of the centre console and drilled a hole in the plastic base. Then cut a discrete slit in the rubber and fed the plug through, it's hardly noticeable now.
As for the microphone I have used the supplied cable but only while I have the current Bluetooth problem (as it's not picking up the microphone input as it goes through the MULF). I just happened to have a spare OEM e89 microphone so located it in the second slot in the steering column cowl. But as yours is a working system then you really shouldn't have to do this, it should pick up from your existing microphone. And even if it doesn't you can pick up a MINI microphone for only £18 from Ebay (it's cheaper then the e89 microphone and is the same spec and fitting shape)

Thanks for your reply Dave, so I believe I have the MULF as I know I don't have COMBOX. I have bluetooth for telephone but not for music streaming. So in my case can I connect the MMI box to the car's original mic? If so how does it connect? does the wiring kit with the MMI box have a splitter for the mic, i.e. allows both the MMI box and the car to connect to the mic?

 

[AnubisZed]

Thanks for your reply Dave, so I believe I have the MULF as I know I don't have COMBOX. I have bluetooth for telephone but not for music streaming. So in my case can I connect the MMI box to the car's original mic? If so how does it connect? does the wiring kit with the MMI box have a splitter for the mic, i.e. allows both the MMI box and the car to connect to the mic?

Sorry I didn't explain that very well did I
As you have a fully working system at the moment then it'll pick up the existing microphone input automatically via your MULF. So the one supplied will not be required. They also supply a cable to plug in with your iDrive controller but this is also not required as it works perfectly without it.

So it's plug-n-play, so to install it....
Remove the headunit coverplate.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the headunit in place.
If you have an auto... remove the surround trim, unplug the cable connector(s), and give your knob a good yank upwards :roll: :rofl:
If yours is a manual.... Place it in 4th.
Cover the centre console trim to protect it.
Withdraw the headunit and unplug the main loom plug only.
Open the glovebox and unscrew the screws above that do not go into the white plastic lugs + one in each side, by the door dampener and one inside the trim by the passenger door.
Lower the glovebox (watch out for the light cable).
Plug the new loom adaptor into your headunit and into the existing loom plug.
Feed the new loom adaptor lead through the back of the headunit apature and into the area behind the glovebox and plug it into the new MMI box and find somewhere suitable to locate it.
Plug the USB cable loom into the MMI Box and run it to a suitable location (there is a plastic plug in the back of the glovebox which will give you access to run it into the glovebox).
Test it (check all speakers are working).
When happy feed the new loom into the apature for the headunit and try to push it down behind the headunit cage.
Screw everything back together and test it again..... you're done

 

[Silverstar]

Perfect, many thanks!

 

[R.E92]

My car is also pre combo box with Bluetooth just for calls. If I wanted to add Bluetooth steaming what would be needed?

 

[AnubisZed]

My car is also pre combo box with Bluetooth just for calls. If I wanted to add Bluetooth steaming what would be needed?

You'd need to add the combox in place of the MULF and then some coding with a ICOM.
Or adding the MMI box to the iDrive system gives you a hell of a lot more

 

[R.E92]

My car is also pre combo box with Bluetooth just for calls. If I wanted to add Bluetooth steaming what would be needed?

You'd need to add the combox in place of the MULF and then some coding with a ICOM.
Or adding the MMI box to the iDrive system gives you a hell of a lot more

I think the combox does everything I need. I like the CIC system as is.

So just buy a combox, remove the MULF and put the combox in its place? Any special looms needed?

The coding shouldn't be an issue, I do some IT work for a dealership so I can borrow an ICOM for an afternoon.

 

[AnubisZed]

My car is also pre combo box with Bluetooth just for calls. If I wanted to add Bluetooth steaming what would be needed?

You'd need to add the combox in place of the MULF and then some coding with a ICOM.
Or adding the MMI box to the iDrive system gives you a hell of a lot more

I think the combox does everything I need. I like the CIC system as is.

So just buy a combox, remove the MULF and put the combox in its place? Any special looms needed?

The coding shouldn't be an issue, I do some IT work for a dealership so I can borrow an ICOM for an afternoon.

Yes there is an adaptor loom required, but I believe you can actually change the pin locations of the current plug and adapt it that way, but I've not looked too far I to it yet.

Here's a very good source of info for this very subject (yeah ok may be for the e9xx but loads of crossover info in there)..... https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=27

 

[R.E92]

You'd need to add the combox in place of the MULF and then some coding with a ICOM.
Or adding the MMI box to the iDrive system gives you a hell of a lot more

I think the combox does everything I need. I like the CIC system as is.

So just buy a combox, remove the MULF and put the combox in its place? Any special looms needed?

The coding shouldn't be an issue, I do some IT work for a dealership so I can borrow an ICOM for an afternoon.

Yes there is an adaptor loom required, but I believe you can actually change the pin locations of the current plug and adapt it that way, but I've not looked too far I to it yet.

Here's a very good source of info for this very subject (yeah ok may be for the e9xx but loads of crossover info in there)..... https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=27

I've done some reading and I don't think any MOST bus work is needed, everything can be done with a DCAN cable and WinKFP. I think it'll even be possible with ProTools since it's just module coding and not flashing.

£130~ for Combox
£20 for connectors

-Exchange telematics module for Combox
-Re-pin old telematics wiring into new connector
-Change VO, default code the CIC and the Combox (MEDIA)

The only thing I'm not sure of is the need for adapters for antenna, I'll do a bit more reading on that.
There's talk of both Telematics and MULF in these retrofits. I'm certain I only have 1, scanning the modules in my car just shows 1 entry for a media module and that's labelled "TEL/MULF" (TELE60_3).

 

[R.E92]

Just a followup on the Combox retrofit. Everything went well, the swap itself is easy enough and the coding took me about 10min using ProTool but is also possible using NCS Expert. No ICOM needed, just a DCAN cable.

I'm currently working on getting the car to use data from the phone and enabling BMW Internet / BMW Live options that weren't available in the UK. I'll give you a more detailing breakdown on the coding part once I know if this is possible or not.

My car didn't have 6FL so I added that but just left the AUX and USB in the boot for now. I tried to figure out the routing from the boot to the armrest but gave up as it was getting late.

Dave, do you have any experience in taking apart the rear of the car to route between the TCU/Combox area and the centre console?

 

[Mojito]

Hi Everybody,

Time to jump in on this thread as I’ve finally committed to an iDrive retrofit!

I’m a newbie on the forum, but have recently introduced myself
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=123597 - “Mojito”, Kevin.

I’ve had my 2015 E89 2.0i for a couple of months now and love it. It’s reasonably well specd, but only has the “TomTom by BMW” sat nav. Actually that works well, but I hate the way it looks. I’ve looked at the wealth of knowledge on the subject on the forum and really appreciate the help and advice you all give, in particular Dave. Thank you Dave for sharing your own journey down this route in such great detail, an inspiration. I wouldn’t even consider doing this without your detailed write-ups & YouTube channel, showing taking the car apart! I fear more help is going to be needed though….

So I’ve considered going down the Android route, but actually I wouldn’t use most of what that offers and I can always add Apple CarPlay/Android Auto box if I feel the need. Call me old fashioned, might be illogical, but I want an original iDrive system. I like a project and this is certainly going to provide that….

I have been watching the two iDrive systems for sale on ebay recently – Dave you kindly highlighted one. Both in Lithuania. Most importantly you mentioned the fact that the cage/mount is different and is a rare find. So I said to both sellers if you can source a cage I will buy from the first one of you that can come up with one and your iDrive set as advertised. Now I’m pretty sure that you purchased a cage from one of these sellers Dave and that other one was alas crushed! It took 3 weeks, but one of them finally came up with the correct cage yesterday and it’s now on its way to me, together with screen, controller, iDrive head unit, glovebox USB socket and assorted cables. It’s from a 2014 RHD car.

Now I’m looking upon this as a winter project, so plenty of time to source what else I need and to suss out the wiring…. somewhat daunting! My car is 2015 and I think has combox, ( Multimedia spec : S6NH Hands-free system with USB interface, S6AC Intelligent emergency call, S6AE Teleservices, S654 DAB Tuner, S676 HiFi speakers, S663 Radio Professional) I’m certainly going to need a GPS receiver and an emulator adaptor. I can get the head unit coded locally.

So a couple of questions if anyone can help. I’m tempted to direct these to you Dave, but as I’ve never communicated with you before, it seems a bit presumptious. You’ve already provided huge amounts of information on this subject through the forum and I’m very grateful for that. Anyway ‘Hello’ and thank you for sharing so much.

Should I source an original BMW GPS receiver and mount in correct position or get an aftermarket one and mount under grill on top of dash as most people seem to do with Android systems. I would prefer an OEM setup, but don’t want to make it more challenging than it already is.

Connecting the iDriver controller – easiest place to connect into loom

As mentioned this is going to be a Winter project, but I plan on updating this thread with my progress as it happens in the hope that it will help others and raise a few smiles....

Great forum.

Cheers,

Kevin

 

[Anonymous]

Is the windscreen for the idrive not a different variant , or is the same variant for supporting rain sensor and gps?

 

[AnubisZed]

Just a followup on the Combox retrofit. Everything went well, the swap itself is easy enough and the coding took me about 10min using ProTool but is also possible using NCS Expert. No ICOM needed, just a DCAN cable.

I'm currently working on getting the car to use data from the phone and enabling BMW Internet / BMW Live options that weren't available in the UK. I'll give you a more detailing breakdown on the coding part once I know if this is possible or not.

My car didn't have 6FL so I added that but just left the AUX and USB in the boot for now. I tried to figure out the routing from the boot to the armrest but gave up as it was getting late.

Dave, do you have any experience in taking apart the rear of the car to route between the TCU/Combox area and the centre console?

Sory bud, never saw this come up as a post :headbang:

Glad it's sorted for you. I'm assuming no MOST coding required because you already had the previous system in place
As for getting from the boot to the centre console, I've no real idea, but would imagine it could be almost directly somewhere under the pass-through hatch position, maybe?

Keep us informed

 

[AnubisZed]

Hi Everybody,

Time to jump in on this thread as I’ve finally committed to an iDrive retrofit!

I’m a newbie on the forum, but have recently introduced myself
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=123597 - “Mojito”, Kevin.

I’ve had my 2015 E89 2.0i for a couple of months now and love it. It’s reasonably well specd, but only has the “TomTom by BMW” sat nav. Actually that works well, but I hate the way it looks. I’ve looked at the wealth of knowledge on the subject on the forum and really appreciate the help and advice you all give, in particular Dave. Thank you Dave for sharing your own journey down this route in such great detail, an inspiration. I wouldn’t even consider doing this without your detailed write-ups & YouTube channel, showing taking the car apart! I fear more help is going to be needed though….

So I’ve considered going down the Android route, but actually I wouldn’t use most of what that offers and I can always add Apple CarPlay/Android Auto box if I feel the need. Call me old fashioned, might be illogical, but I want an original iDrive system. I like a project and this is certainly going to provide that….

I have been watching the two iDrive systems for sale on ebay recently – Dave you kindly highlighted one. Both in Lithuania. Most importantly you mentioned the fact that the cage/mount is different and is a rare find. So I said to both sellers if you can source a cage I will buy from the first one of you that can come up with one and your iDrive set as advertised. Now I’m pretty sure that you purchased a cage from one of these sellers Dave and that other one was alas crushed! It took 3 weeks, but one of them finally came up with the correct cage yesterday and it’s now on its way to me, together with screen, controller, iDrive head unit, glovebox USB socket and assorted cables. It’s from a 2014 RHD car.

Now I’m looking upon this as a winter project, so plenty of time to source what else I need and to suss out the wiring…. somewhat daunting! My car is 2015 and I think has combox, ( Multimedia spec : S6NH Hands-free system with USB interface, S6AC Intelligent emergency call, S6AE Teleservices, S654 DAB Tuner, S676 HiFi speakers, S663 Radio Professional) I’m certainly going to need a GPS receiver and an emulator adaptor. I can get the head unit coded locally.

So a couple of questions if anyone can help. I’m tempted to direct these to you Dave, but as I’ve never communicated with you before, it seems a bit presumptious. You’ve already provided huge amounts of information on this subject through the forum and I’m very grateful for that. Anyway ‘Hello’ and thank you for sharing so much.

Should I source an original BMW GPS receiver and mount in correct position or get an aftermarket one and mount under grill on top of dash as most people seem to do with Android systems. I would prefer an OEM setup, but don’t want to make it more challenging than it already is.

Connecting the iDriver controller – easiest place to connect into loom

As mentioned this is going to be a Winter project, but I plan on updating this thread with my progress as it happens in the hope that it will help others and raise a few smiles....

Great forum.

Cheers,

Kevin

Kevin, welcome

That sounds great news.
As you already have combox then the coding should go very smoothly without any problems.
Basically all you need to do is remove the dash trims (above and below the headunit (as per my photos), remove the headunit and top cubby hole. Remove the radio cage and replace it with the new one, good luck as you'll need to do a bit of tugging and pulling and I recommend removing it by trying to rotate it as you pull it towards the gear stick. Don't bother trying to move it to the left as you're not going to get it out, I rapidly realised this after wasting some time!! Then fit the new cage.
Run your wires up to the screen location (4 core for power and canbus and the LVDS cable).
As for the headunit I would now plug the original OEM multi plug into the back along with the GPS, antenna and any other you need and give it a power up before you start to fasten anything else in. Even if it's not coded at this point it should all still work (ish).
once you are happy fasten it all in place.

As for the GPS, yeah I wouldn't bother with the OEM GPS antenna and just go for a aftermarket version and stick it under the grill on the dash, this is where mine is and it works perfectly and is not seen at all.

As for the iDrive controller, well it depends what's included with the wiring loom sections that you receive, but what I did was to break into the canbus and power lines of the emulator cable and just tap off them. I actually did this twice as I did one for the screen as well and ran it up to it.

I look forward to see how you get on and I'll keep this post updated as I continue with mine

 

[AnubisZed]

Is the windscreen for the idrive not a different variant , or is the same variant for supporting rain sensor and gps?

I would assume the GPS is within the RLS blank section, but thinking about it it is right at the top anyway so could be an a non RLS screen.

 

[Anonymous]

Is the windscreen for the idrive not a different variant , or is the same variant for supporting rain sensor and gps?

I would assume the GPS is within the RLS blank section, but thinking about it it is right at the top anyway so could be an a non RLS screen.

When I had a cracked screen the guys were insistent on a genuine bmw screen and needed the vin code ...the fitter was super aware of the vulnerability of the gps aerial and the need for recalibrated of the rain sensor sensitivity...