My current project - Retrofit iDrive

[AnubisZed]

OK so my latest project is to retrofit OEM iDrive into my Z4 - Why? Because I can (hopefully)

History;
As Pbondar has written in his excellent write up "BMW E89 Audio Systems and Upgrades" (https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=121327) there are a few options for the sound system on an e89. When I bought mine it had the most basic version installed, base stereo without USB or Bluetooh and only 6 speakers. I've never heard anything so dire, it truly is an injustice for BMW to sell a quality car with such a weak sound system in it, but I digress…. anyway not long after I bought him (the car was named Bryan by it's previous owner and I saw no reason to change it! :? ) I found out I could change the headunit for something that was OEM but also had Bluetooth and USB control, as I had an iPod then this was ideal. Long story short, I learnt how to code it in, got all of the components and installed it. Upside was that not only did I now have the added Bluetooh and USB control but the sound quality was massively improved as well. I also installed a pair of tweeters in the door pods to bring it up to an 8 speaker package. But at the end of the day I always fancied an iDrive system, but was told it would be expensive and complicated to code in, in fact some parts of the coding were exspensive due to an item of equipment called an ICOM.

About 2 years ago I learnt of the Android system for other models of the BMW range just as the version for the non-iDrive e90 3series had come out. So I started thinking if it could be installed in our E89's. I contacted the company and started talking to them about it. A year late the E89 version was released and I arranged to have one shipped to the UK so I could install it and test it out. Long story short (again) I love it, does what I want it to do, it's well built and works (even though some sceptics said it wouldn't last 3 months!!).
But I'd still like an OEM iDrive, so I've been thinking, and this is what I've come up with following a lot of research....

Install iDrive headunit
Fit LVDS cable to Android screen
Install OEM iDrive controller in place of Android copy controller
Install MULF2 unit for Bluetooth (+ Bluetooth antenna), AUX & USB inputs (not bothered about a Combox as I don't need multimedia or Bluetooth streaming options, this would also require an ICOM to code it in)
Emulator adaptor loom
GPS antenna
DAB antenna
Glovebox USB socket and cable

OK so I've got all of those parts now plus some wiring to go with it, then I discovered that the headunit mounting cage for the iDrive unit is different from the normal headunit, now I needed to find one of those.... part number search = nothing listed, it's part of a full dash assembly. Looking at used dash assemblies for sale showed that none of them had this bit included, so I've contacted a few breakers around and have located one in Lithuania which I should now have in a couple of weeks time.

I managed to get hold of a CIC MID headunit which isn't one for the E89 as it only does the 6.5" screen and doesn't have the HDD, not a problem and considering how little it cost me it was worth a punt!
I also got hold of the iDrive controller from a later NBT vehicle so it didn't work (I was lead to believe that it was a CIC version!), but I've now managed to get hold of a proper one for the CIC (I have noticed though that the quality has dropped in later production, the feel was nowhere near as good as the CIC older one!)

So I've installed the MULF and Bluetooth antenna above the glovebox rather than having the MULF in the boot as it's easier and there is room to mount it there. The iDrive controller is mounted where it should be and has had the proper wiring plug fitted for it. MOST fibre optic cables have been installed along with the wiring into the MULF.

So I've done some coding to remove the old headunit code and add in the new CIC one and I've done a test installation (can't fully install it as I don't have the cage yet) which was very good. Headunit integrates with the Android screen as it should (although only 2/3 of the screen to the left are used for the CIC, which is not a major problem) and I have full control of both the iDrive and Android screens with the iDrive controller and steering wheel buttons. Radio works, DAB works, NAV works (once I'd been out for a drive round), AUX and USB works (which means the MOST is picking up from the MULF) but what doesn't work (at the moment at least) is the Bluetooth. It's coded in, I've change the VIN in the MULF to match the car and that is now showing up, so my software is able to see and talk to it, but I just can't get the Bluetooth to actually work :headbang:

I'll add to this thread as I go along with the rest of the installation and the Bluetooth issues.

This is the 2/3 screen view


And the OEM iDrive controller


And cutting the plug into the Android controller loom


And making it look OEM

 

[tintoverano]

I thought you added iDrive as well with the Android thingy last year, which is optionally included, right?

I hardly use iDrive, mainly to switch over to the system I installed for Spotify and Waze, and then use my mobile's screen as touchpad in desktop mode

 

[AnubisZed]

I thought you added iDrive as well with the Android thingy last year, which is optionally included, right?

I hardly use iDrive, mainly to switch over to the system I installed for Spotify and Waze, and then use my mobile's screen as touchpad in desktop mode

I added the Android copy iDrive controller that's all, it was still a non-iDrive system, just the Android screen.
If I was to go "full-hog" then I'd fit an OEM flip-up screen and one of the plug-n-play boxes that has CarPlay/Android Auto on it with my reversing camera, as I only really use Android Auto (streaming music and live maps) but that may come in the future.

This whole project is "because I can"

 

[Anonymous]

its great that people continue to adapt and pioneer on various combos..keep us updated as and when!

 

[R.E92]

ICOM isn't such a big deal. You can code all modules with a DCAN cable if it's a bimmergeeks cable, it's just the cheap cables that struggle.

BMW also dropped the price of the ICOM in the last year, you can pick the full ICOM A2+B+C up at a dealer for under £500 last time I checked.

 

[AnubisZed]

ICOM isn't such a big deal. You can code all modules with a DCAN cable if it's a bimmergeeks cable, it's just the cheap cables that struggle.

BMW also dropped the price of the ICOM in the last year, you can pick the full ICOM A2+B+C up at a dealer for under £500 last time I checked.

I use an eBay DCAN cable, been using it for the last few years, never lets me down and does everything I need it to, but if it does break then I'll probably go for the Bimmergeeks one
As for ICOM, for the little I'd get out of it I wouldn't bother, even the copies at £250 are still expensive for what I want out of them, just can't justify it.

 

[AnubisZed]

its great that people continue to adapt and pioneer on various combos..keep us updated as and when!

I love a challenge :rofl:

I'm also doing three other retrofits as well in various stages of completion, auto dimming interior mirror, RLS and full OEM PDC :driving: (my Z4 came with almost nothing from the options bin!!)

 

[tintoverano]

not hijack the topic, so just a short note

I'm on the voltage stabilizer, ICOM thing now, will come back with news in a post

• in my case ISTA-D is complaining about disturbed communication, though I could encode features on the car etc., but not going into ISTA-P stuff w/o stabilizer and ICOM

 

[AnubisZed]

Oh and while searching for info I've had to be VERY careful what I've typed into Google! Had to make sure that I've typed a U as it's very close to the I :rofl: …. MULF

 

[Deepseaskateboard]

This is a great project, I would love to add it to mine, (but with OEM screen) + Car Play module

How much has all of this cost, excluding man hours?

 

[AnubisZed]

This is a great project, I would love to add it to mine, (but with OEM screen) + Car Play module

How much has all of this cost, excluding man hours?

The average price for the retrofit parts, with all proper parts would be in the region of between £700 to £800 depending how cheap you could get the parts for plus the CarPlay module on top and they range from just over £200 to just under £500 depending on UK or China supplied!

My little lot of parts from various sources and models has cost me about £340

 

[R.E92]

ICOM isn't such a big deal. You can code all modules with a DCAN cable if it's a bimmergeeks cable, it's just the cheap cables that struggle.

BMW also dropped the price of the ICOM in the last year, you can pick the full ICOM A2+B+C up at a dealer for under £500 last time I checked.

I use an eBay DCAN cable, been using it for the last few years, never lets me down and does everything I need it to, but if it does break then I'll probably go for the Bimmergeeks one
As for ICOM, for the little I'd get out of it I wouldn't bother, even the copies at £250 are still expensive for what I want out of them, just can't justify it.

Yeh, it's a lot of money to spend for infrequent use, worthwhile if you have multiple BMWs or plan to stick with the marque in the future though. I can put it through as a business expense and get the VAT back which brings it down a lot.

The bimmergeeks cable is a step up from the eBay ones though. It's twice the speed which is nice for long flashing sessions, it also fixes errors made in the protocol conversion with the eBay cables so won't brick your TCU and iDrive if you do attempt flashing them.

not hijack the topic, so just a short note

I'm on the voltage stabilizer, ICOM thing now, will come back with news in a post

• in my case ISTA-D is complaining about disturbed communication, though I could encode features on the car etc., but not going into ISTA-P stuff w/o stabilizer and ICOM

You can make your own voltage stabiliser for around £50. Basically just a small mod to a second hand Dell server PSU and you end up with an extremely stable power supply. Do a search for "DIY flashing PSU" and plenty of topics will come up.

 

[tintoverano]

You can make your own voltage stabiliser for around £50. Basically just a small mod to a second hand Dell server PSU and you end up with an extremely stable power supply. Do a search for "DIY flashing PSU" and plenty of topics will come up.

I just did last night from £25

14V, 700W, 70A

 

[R.E92]

Out of interest, what would it take to retrofit bluetooth audio streaming to a 2009 car?

I know a combobox module needs adding and a little coding is needed, is that it?

 

[Beeacon]

Out of interest, what would it take to retrofit bluetooth audio streaming to a 2009 car?

I know a combobox module needs adding and a little coding is needed, is that it?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ViseeO-Tune2Air-Bluetooth-Streaming-Connection/dp/B00TFIPX82/ref=pd_lpo_23_t_1/259-8819037-1230224?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00TFIPX82&pd_rd_r=38f452ee-f573-4e78-a6e4-06434ac4022a&pd_rd_w=ouBfC&pd_rd_wg=JMgVP&pf_rd_p=7b8e3b03-1439-4489-abd4-4a138cf4eca6&pf_rd_r=VNJVBJFK22BFRNG18J6P&psc=1&refRID=VNJVBJFK22BFRNG18J6P

I don't have a combox and have the above Tune2Air bluetooth adapter. This allows me to stream spotify on my iPhone over the stock iDrive, it shows up song info and allows me to use the steering controls too.

The downside is that it doesn't have anywhere near the additional functions added in the lci Z4s or the android screen.

 

[R.E92]

Out of interest, what would it take to retrofit bluetooth audio streaming to a 2009 car?

I know a combobox module needs adding and a little coding is needed, is that it?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ViseeO-Tune2Air-Bluetooth-Streaming-Connection/dp/B00TFIPX82/ref=pd_lpo_23_t_1/259-8819037-1230224?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00TFIPX82&pd_rd_r=38f452ee-f573-4e78-a6e4-06434ac4022a&pd_rd_w=ouBfC&pd_rd_wg=JMgVP&pf_rd_p=7b8e3b03-1439-4489-abd4-4a138cf4eca6&pf_rd_r=VNJVBJFK22BFRNG18J6P&psc=1&refRID=VNJVBJFK22BFRNG18J6P

I don't have a combox and have the above Tune2Air bluetooth adapter. This allows me to stream spotify on my iPhone over the stock iDrive, it shows up song info and allows me to use the steering controls too.

The downside is that it doesn't have anywhere near the additional functions added in the lci Z4s or the android screen.

That's a nice bit of a kit but I'm similar to Dave in that I want to retrofit it just because. Something to do while the pubs are still shut

 

[AnubisZed]

Out of interest, what would it take to retrofit bluetooth audio streaming to a 2009 car?

I know a combobox module needs adding and a little coding is needed, is that it?

As far as I'm aware you need the combox, the adaptor loom from MULF to combox (I'm assuming you have MULF now), then code it in and in theory it should work (loads of info on combox swap on e90post.com)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ViseeO-Tune2Air-Bluetooth-Streaming-Connection/dp/B00TFIPX82/ref=pd_lpo_23_t_1/259-8819037-1230224?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00TFIPX82&pd_rd_r=38f452ee-f573-4e78-a6e4-06434ac4022a&pd_rd_w=ouBfC&pd_rd_wg=JMgVP&pf_rd_p=7b8e3b03-1439-4489-abd4-4a138cf4eca6&pf_rd_r=VNJVBJFK22BFRNG18J6P&psc=1&refRID=VNJVBJFK22BFRNG18J6P

I don't have a combox and have the above Tune2Air bluetooth adapter. This allows me to stream spotify on my iPhone over the stock iDrive, it shows up song info and allows me to use the steering controls too.

The downside is that it doesn't have anywhere near the additional functions added in the lci Z4s or the android screen.

I've had this before, great piece of kit for streaming, control of music via the steering wheel buttons, and if you have an iPhone then you get track info as well on the headunit (or even better with iDrive)

 

[AnubisZed]

OK, an update.....

So the project is getting there, slowly but it's getting there
So the damaged Z4 is now in Lithuania and I'm now just waiting on info about the headunit cage. ** 08/07/20 ** Cage now posted to the UK!

The OEM iDrive controller..... Alas I missed out on the last e89 controller on eBay the other week so I got hold of an e90 version instead. The only difference between them is the bracket that it's screwed to the centre console with, and that comes off, so I ordered the proper e89 bracket and it finally arrived yesterday. Now it looks perfect in it's proper place The bracket cost me £18 delivered and the e90 controller cost £75 so not too bad considering the average price of the e89 version is £100.

And I've managed to get hold of the e89 flip-up screen, for FREE
Alas, so far it's not displaying anything, it glows, but doesn't flip up or show anything on it, so something to investigate. If I get it to work then I may take this project in a slightly different direction 8)

Still no joy with the bluetooth working though, so that is also still under investigation.

Next thing is I'm going to list the current (wrong) headunit on eBay and then get hold of the proper one for the e89, might as well have the correct headunit, especially if I do go with the flip-up screen.

That's it for now, hopefully some more progress soon

 

[AnubisZed]

Another update**

I've now listed the "wrong" headunit on eBay and have bought the correct version which should be with me in a few days.
The cage should also be here in a few days as well.

I've checked over the flip-up screen, that I got for free, and cannot find what is wrong with it. I did do a fault code check and it stated that there was a fault in the video input cable. The cable I have from the headunit to the screen works OK as it displays on the Android screen, so I checked out both fly cables on the screen and they both have through signals with my meter, so it looks like something is wrong internally with the screen.
Not to worry it didn't cost me anything so no lose. So I'm now actively searching for a working flip-up screen and have decided to remove the Android screen and fit a wireless CarPLay/Android Auto adaptor box instead. I'm currently pursuing two screens to see what the best price is.

Once complete it should look something like this...

 

[Anonymous]

Love a man with the bit between his teeth