Montego Blue E86 is Long Gone - Z4MC 2025 Summer Prep

No, I didn't find it difficult, it was just very time consuming. I started cleaning at 6:30pm Tue and finished at 4am Wed. I did clean the interior and other bits between each dye application (15min between each application) - the driver's seat probably took around 10 applications or so to look perfect.
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What dye did you use?
 
How did you clean the inside of the headlights?
I assume they were left on the car. What did you have to remove to get inside them.

Car looks great by the way. :thumbsup:
 
Stretch_Blanco said:
What a fantastic idea! I never even thought of that. My wheel is totally wrecked and I thought I was going to have to buy a whole new wheel! Not anymore, that looks amazing!

Just bought last week and was actually thinking about creating a thread just like you have done here! Great job, what an amazing Z4!

Oh deary me that steering wheel has got to be the worse one I've ever seen. Hopefully you've at least deep cleaned it for now! Please do post the results once you refurb it.

Stretch_Blanco said:
What dye did you use?

Furniture clinic colour matched restoration kit.

Z4C_er said:
The wheel looks awesome. Very classy. And the gaiter! Did Royal do that as well?

No, Royals charge way too much for a gaiter - £60 or so. There's a company on ebay J-F-Customs that I've used a few times and never disappointed me. I saw they had prepared gaiters with contrast stitching for the Z4 already (here), so I messaged them and asked for the stitching to be in cream and to make the gaiter shorter by 1", I was charged £5 extra and a few days later I was very pleased with what I received. So overall £25 and that includes the handbrake sleeve as well (yet to install that one...)
 
dhobbs said:
How did you clean the inside of the headlights?
I assume they were left on the car. What did you have to remove to get inside them.

Car looks great by the way. :thumbsup:

I removed the projector from the headlight housing to change it to a Morimoto unit and through the opening I managed to clean some of the inside of the headlight. I'm not happy with it still, so over summer I'll split them to clean everything properly and paint it black.
 
lucasxdiniz said:
No, Royals charge way too much for a gaiter - £60 or so. There's a company on ebay J-F-Customs that I've used a few times and never disappointed me. I saw they had prepared gaiters with contrast stitching for the Z4 already (here), so I messaged them and asked for the stitching to be in cream and to make the gaiter shorter by 1", I was charged £5 extra and a few days later I was very pleased with what I received. So overall £25 and that includes the handbrake sleeve as well (yet to install that one...)

Nice. I guess the 'cream' stitching fairly closely matches the steering wheel? Not that you could ever directly compare the two, as they will never be next to each other.

Thanks for the link.
 
Z4C_er said:
Nice. I guess the 'cream' stitching fairly closely matches the steering wheel? Not that you could ever directly compare the two, as they will never be next to each other.
Thanks for the link.

I keep saying cream, but it's 'champagne'. I could actually compare both side by side before I installed the gaiter, perfect match, so I guess they used the same thread/supplier. Quite close to the actual colour of the seats as well, but not perfect if you compare it against the seats, but once installed I can't tell the difference.
 
lucasxdiniz said:
dhobbs said:
How did you clean the inside of the headlights?
I assume they were left on the car. What did you have to remove to get inside them.

Car looks great by the way. :thumbsup:

I removed the projector from the headlight housing to change it to a Morimoto unit and through the opening I managed to clean some of the inside of the headlight. I'm not happy with it still, so over summer I'll split them to clean everything properly and paint it black.
Thanks. Mine definitely need a good wipe on the inside. My other half’s car has got a cobweb inside her headlight, no sign of the spider though 😀
 
This might be a long post but not really informative as I've become really bad at documenting mods; I get too excited to get them done and don't bother with photos!

In April I was offered my dream job as a Powertrain Engineer for a motorsport company that starts in September and finished my degree in the first few days of June. The plan for this summer was to enjoy my last ever proper summer with a massive road trip around Europe but COVID19 happened... So I decided to focus my energy and funds into further improving my car. Here's the result:

I submitted my last exam on the 2nd of June at 1pm, I pulled an all nighter to finish it so after a good nap I went straight to the garage to remove my differential! At 6:30pm that evening I was under my car attempting my biggest mod ever. My mum being the lovely lady she is came to the garage around 9:00pm to bring me some dinner and probably took my favourite photo ever:

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She and my dog ended up staying in the garage watching me work and helping where they could. Rusty just chilled in the duvet that I was lying on while she handed me tools and manned the jack when I attempted to drop the diff. Here's a photo of me draining the diff oil after it had been removed:

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Everything ///M3s supplied a Wavetrac ATB and fitted it inside the housing for me. I figured Darragh fitting it would end up being cheaper than buying all the tools to do it and a lot less hassle. He's excellent at what he does, but after seeing what went into actually fitting it, I regret not doing it myself for what I paid.

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After a thorough clean, bolting the LSD to the crown wheel, installing new seals and bearings:

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Here's the only thing an open diff should be used for:

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My friend [ref]jhpgram[/ref] drove me and the diff to Everything///M3 and helped me install it the same day:

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If you have a lowered car and are removing the diff, it would be a crime not to install adjustable camber arms while it's easy! I installed DriftWorks' own E46 adjustable camber arms, they are rose jointed and did not add any noticeable NHV to the cabin.

Since I decided to focus on improving the handling of the car, I decided to pull the trigger on a set of BC Racing coilovers! I couldn't be happier with them for the price, response is superb and even though much firmer than my previous set up, still comfortable and daily-able. I was very impressed with the build quality as well.

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I figured it would be a good ideal to add top mount reinforcement to the chassis to avoid cracking due to the new firmer suspension. I also remembered how much of a difference adding braces made to NVH of my old MK2 MX5 - a lot less noise from the solid top mounts of coilovers. So while the rears got reinforcement plates, I went with a 3 point Ultra Racing strut brace for the fronts, not expecting to feel any significant difference on the directness of the front end but hoping for better NVH. I believe I was right!

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I thought about poly-bushing the RTAs but after inspecting my bushes and realising they were in perfect condition, I decided not to and ordered some limiters instead. After reading many forum people saying how much of a difference they made to the rear end, I'm disappointed to say that this is the cheapest mod here and the one I wouldn't recommend. Made f*ck all difference to the rear end. I believe they only felt any difference because of the alignment that got done afterwards or because their bushes weren't in great condition. Or because I have so many other mods, it's effect is just not noticeable.

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Once all upgrades were made, I thoroughly tested my LSD to get used to the new handling characteristics. And I mean that:

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After working so much on the car and inspecting every single nut and bolt on it, I decided to refresh the front end bushes. The N/S F lollipop bushing was starting to collapse and I could feel/hear a bit of a knock, the components didn't have any branding on them so I assumed they were cheap aftermarkets and replaced the whole lot with new MEYLE HD parts.

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I finished installing the wishbones/tierods 15 minutes before it was booked for new tyres (Good Years Asymmetric 5s) and a four wheel alignment - the adjustable camber arm did its job, no more excessive rear camber!:

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Apart from changing the tyres and alignment everything else was done by myself. Many thanks for my friend [ref]jhpgram[/ref] for giving me a hand to finish the diff job and installing the coil-overs. Can't even tell how many cuts and bruises I've had in my hand in the last few weeks and how much I've literally bled for this car. Including having the eccentric camber bolt snap and I get a 22mm spanner to the face almost breaking my nose (looked more jewish for a couple of weeks) :rofl:

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Wow, that's a big update. Congrats on graduation and the job, mate (and the diff, hah). :thumbsup:

Interesting point re. the RTABs. I suspect limiters can compensate for soggy bushes. Mine were absolute mush when I replaced them (along with a million other things), so none the wiser. I bet some also get shredded quite quickly due to lack of preload.
 
What do you do with your spare time? As someone who has no skills with spanners and is a mechanical coward I am seriously impressed with your achievements. Really enjoyed reading all the posts. Well done? :thumbsup:
 
Z4C_er said:
I'm also in awe of the seemingly bottomless pit of money!
:poke:

I wish that was the case.

MrPT said:
Wow, that's a big update. Congrats on graduation and the job, mate (and the diff, hah). :thumbsup:

Interesting point re. the RTABs. I suspect limiters can compensate for soggy bushes. Mine were absolute mush when I replaced them (along with a million other things), so none the wiser. I bet some also get shredded quite quickly due to lack of preload.

Thank you! x3 It was one miserable, uninteresting job. Honestly felt like putting a dunce hat for paying £50 on 4 pieces of turned plastic. The company doesn't even machine a lead-in chamfer to make fitting those easier, so after sanding the edges to create a chamfer it was much easier to install.

IRD said:
What do you do with your spare time? As someone who has no skills with spanners and is a mechanical coward I am seriously impressed with your achievements. Really enjoyed reading all the posts. Well done? :thumbsup:

I think you've just read what I do with my spare time haha Also installed HSD coilovers in a friend's E86 - that was a nightmare as I kept having to re-do the rears as DriftWorks failed to mention they just assumed the E46 kit would fit the Z4 with no issues. Everyone starts somewhere, one of my friends with an E86 couldn't even replace the side light bulb one year ago and now he can tackle big mods with me. Start small and go from there, it's a good, enjoyable past time!
 
Congratulations on the graduation and the job. :thumbsup:

At our meet-up last month you said you had fitted an LSD and coil-overs which sounded pretty straight-forward, but your post above highlights just how much work is involved!

Your diff testing session was obviously very successful. :lol:
 
Congrats on the job and that first pic is great. Certainly out of context you have the face of "what have I started and why??". :P

Questions about the BC kit:
- How's the front camber adjustability? I can see from the pic that there's not a whole lot of room for locking bolts on the camber plate to move?
- Do the rear shocks allow you to add extenders to the top of them? Or is the only option to adjust via the footwell under the mount?
 
Mr Tidy said:
Congratulations on the graduation and the job. :thumbsup:

At our meet-up last month you said you had fitted an LSD and coil-overs which sounded pretty straight-forward, but your post above highlights just how much work is involved!

Your diff testing session was obviously very successful. :lol:

Thank you! All the jobs were fairly straight forward, just time consuming. As always it only takes one seized bolt to ruin your evening and make the job a lot longer!

tomrdy said:
Congrats on the job and that first pic is great. Certainly out of context you have the face of "what have I started and why??". :P

Questions about the BC kit:
- How's the front camber adjustability? I can see from the pic that there's not a whole lot of room for locking bolts on the camber plate to move?
- Do the rear shocks allow you to add extenders to the top of them? Or is the only option to adjust via the footwell under the mount?

Thank you!

  • For the front adjustable camber plates you can move the bolts around to other holes if you want to create more clearance, but I didn't bother because where they are at the moment and placing the shocks exactly in the middle of the adjustment in the chassis gives you -1.2 degree of camber for the ride height I was after. You can see in the alignment sheet that front camber was the only thing I tried to make sure was spot on. Also you could use one of those allen keys that work even if angled.
  • I'm not sure about that, I was actually very pleased they designed it to be adjustable via the wheel well and didn't check the top. If you think jacking up the rear is too much effort, you can create enough of a wheel arch gap by reversing with you handbrake pulled slightly to adjust the damping.
 
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