Liam's Z4C race car project
- Thread starter Liam22
- Start date
These are 325mm discs.
Reasons:
1. The calipers expect 28mm thick discs and OEM is 25mm. While they would work, I don't want to risk pistons falling out with worn pads.
2. I didn't want to buy new 3 sets of rims - these will still fit under 17" rims
3. Weight. OEM is 8.9kg each, 325mm M3 discs are 7.64kg each. So that's a total 2.5kg saving and met my <£100/kg target.
Reasons:
1. The calipers expect 28mm thick discs and OEM is 25mm. While they would work, I don't want to risk pistons falling out with worn pads.
2. I didn't want to buy new 3 sets of rims - these will still fit under 17" rims
3. Weight. OEM is 8.9kg each, 325mm M3 discs are 7.64kg each. So that's a total 2.5kg saving and met my <£100/kg target.
Clingfilmed the engine while I located a stud extractor and a few new bolts.Liam22 said:
Thankfully it came out without a fuss.
I don't run an engine cover, so sprayed the Valvetronic unit with BBQ paint to smarten it up a little. New seals, new camshaft position sensor and it seems happy (and leak feee).
I got gazzzzz's air inlet scoop fitted yesterday
(see https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=123799&start=30 )
Had it painted!
Bumper off, and it slots straight in. Beautiful design - fits like a glove and retains the OEM securing hole.
Nice to see it peeking behind the grill :8
(see https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=123799&start=30 )
Had it painted!
Bumper off, and it slots straight in. Beautiful design - fits like a glove and retains the OEM securing hole.
Nice to see it peeking behind the grill :8
No idea, and it's still not 100% confirmed. My hunch is a bug in the ABS unit firmware. I'll be putting a switch on the dash to control power to the steering angle sensor, as I'm getting too old to be upside down in the footwell.Vanne said:
Replaced the side windows with Lexan this week - another 8.75kg saved. Rear screen is out, but before I fit the Lexan I'm looking at using the access to fit bracing between the boot lid and the bodyshell so that the rear wing is solidly mounted. 8)
Attachments
Have just found out that the replacement rubber trim (between glass and body) for the rear screen is £88+VAT !!!
£46/metre for some rubber trim
Looks like I'll be cleaning and reusing the original. Thankfully I didn't slice through it removing the old sealant, and it came away in one piece.
£46/metre for some rubber trim
Looks like I'll be cleaning and reusing the original. Thankfully I didn't slice through it removing the old sealant, and it came away in one piece.
Look familiar?Liam22 said:
Another example if why it pays not to throw stuff away. This is the slam panel bracing that normally lives behind the kidney grill. I don't need it there as my bonnet doesn't latch there any more.
Needed shortening slightly, with some new holes at the ends to pickup the existing vertical holes in the boot lid. Also needed to make a custom bracket to replace the striker pin.
Surprisgly it also saved 330g over the OEM catch mechanism.
The boot lid is now rock solid, if somewhat more difficult to open than before!
When I put the car back together last year I noticed the rubber boot at the propshaft centre bearing was split. Ignored it at the time, but has been nagging me ever since.
Replacing the bearing was interesting. Half the propshaft only just fits in the press.
Also bought a centring Bush for the gearbox end. Removing that was not straightforward, but I persevered with the Dremel until I could drift it out.
Finally, the new boot and we're good to go. Note the alignment marks so that the two halves go back together in the same position. Not sure if BMW balance the propshaft but just in case they do...
Now back on the car, and with a new Guibo at the gearbox end.
Replacing the bearing was interesting. Half the propshaft only just fits in the press.
Also bought a centring Bush for the gearbox end. Removing that was not straightforward, but I persevered with the Dremel until I could drift it out.
Finally, the new boot and we're good to go. Note the alignment marks so that the two halves go back together in the same position. Not sure if BMW balance the propshaft but just in case they do...
Now back on the car, and with a new Guibo at the gearbox end.
I did all three of these recently. Re the centering bush - I found a method on Youtube to remove it without having to cut it up and potentially damage the housing.
You pack the inside of the bush with as much wet blue workshop paper as possible and then with a long socket that is a tight fit into the bush also packed with the paper and a short extension on it to close off the hole through, keep hitting it. It takes a while and you need to re-pack quite a few times as the paper compresses, but it did actually work. It seems to be a similar method to the BMW one of using grease and is a bit less messy. Worth noting also that BMW say the bush should project about 4mm from the housing although it is possible to drive it right in flush. I asked my Indy if this was critical and he thought not, however presumably BMW had a reason for it.
You pack the inside of the bush with as much wet blue workshop paper as possible and then with a long socket that is a tight fit into the bush also packed with the paper and a short extension on it to close off the hole through, keep hitting it. It takes a while and you need to re-pack quite a few times as the paper compresses, but it did actually work. It seems to be a similar method to the BMW one of using grease and is a bit less messy. Worth noting also that BMW say the bush should project about 4mm from the housing although it is possible to drive it right in flush. I asked my Indy if this was critical and he thought not, however presumably BMW had a reason for it.
Ah, that's interesting, although I can't quite visualise it. I did leave a protrusion, 3-4mm.
I did think about drifting it straight down and stacking the new one on top. But I didn't get as far as measuring for feasibility as adding weight, even 15g, is a no-no.
I did think about drifting it straight down and stacking the new one on top. But I didn't get as far as measuring for feasibility as adding weight, even 15g, is a no-no.
Liam22 said:
Makes total sense, car is looking amazing good sir! how did you find the setup after installing the rear wing? did you spec the coilovers for the rear wing or have you put the wing on before? i am looking at going to a GT wing and would like to upgrade my coilovers at the same time. i figured while im at it might aswell get them matched. now you have swapped to a true rear coilover are you planning to strengthen the rear top mount pickups?
It opens by removing 2 bolts from the inside with *a lot* of extension bars! But yeah, there's nothing in there so I don't expect to do that very often.Vanne said:
I increased spring rates front and rear after getting the car to race spec and with the aero package.Wursle said:
The roll cage picks up the rear top mounts. See page 14.Wursle said:
The K-system.pro website said that the E46 brackets fitted both non-M and M3 discs. That was wrong so they made me a custom set. You would be able to order either now that they have the measurements I gave them! Great company to deal with.Wursle said:
