Key fob dead

flybobbie

Lifer
Stourbridge
Non comfort.
Opened car.
Tried inserting key.
Won't go in.
Car on lift came up on dash.

Car started ok 2 days ago as i have it work, replacing shocks, just waiting on parts.

Need to try the 2nd key, but do they have a rechargeable battery or capacitor inside that might need replacing?

Does look all sealed up. Perhaps just end of life after 13 years.
 
First thing try the other key like you say.

Yes they have a rechargeable battery inside, that charges from an induction loop. You can get the battery swapped out. Myself and others, on the forum have used , The Master Lock Smith. See Thread link.

https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1952630&hilit=key#p1952630

Hope that helps.
 
OK thanks for that, i knew someone would come up with a possible solution.
Funny i used to keep spare key at work, now at home
:(

Perhaps i need to keep in a tin box somewhere secret on car.
Most other cars i have owned have taped a spare key to car somewhere.
DIY https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393306302934 ... d-EALw_wcB

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393039117053 ... BMwM_JwpZh
Top
 
Connected obd reader, it came up with fault on first item, Hall sensor start stop fault.
Still hoping it's just a faulty fob battery.
 
Well spare key has confirmed the ignition module is some how faulty, as per obd readout.
Key only goes half way in.
It knows the key is there as the car on ramp icon comes up, probably because my right head lamp bulb is out.
 
Actual codes;
A0B9 cas hall sensor, key eject
A0BA cas hall sensor start stop button

Ribbon cable terminates at the start stop button, then loops to key module, then off to i assume cas.
Why should there be 2 hall sensor faults unless fed by common component.
Just a simple hardware failure?
 
So 2nd hand arrived with key stuck in.
Fitted to car, nothing, hoping key might just get ejected.
So obd reader, cleared codes, key popped out.
Tried my key, nothing.
Tried what was called CAS reset.
Tried key, nothing.

Few seconds later, car on ramp.
Code A0B9 on reader.
Care dead, not responsive other than locking and alarm.

Stands back scratches head.
Might try dis and re connect battery and remove recharge battery whilst i work on suspension.
 
Of course the start stop code as gone, but could it be simply the push button has died.

Yet on the obd reader live data, shows it working.
 
Did you look on newTIS ..seems quite a bit of security related matters associated with this?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89-z4-sdrive35is-roa/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-start/convenient-starting/25jh0v0
 
No.
Have ordered new slot and push button.
Got to come from Germany.
So be next Monday before i can try and fix.
 
Another thing i will try is removing relay 30g and reinstall and or replace..

Something i noticed today having car jacked up to get at rear shock, was how far the front was off the ground.
Wonder if some bending of bodywork going on.
 
So fitted new start switch and key module.
Still dead.
Still same obd readout after reset, suggesting a short circuit.

So decided to get at the cas unit. (Taken out and apart and dried it and the other next to it)..
It was wet and was everything around it, plugs, cables, sound insulation wet.
Floor was dry, pedals were wet.
Didn't seem wet near the door, if the seals there let in water.

Furthest drip seem to be high up, can't really see where it might be from.
Only place i think water might get in if the windshield sealant has a gap or pulled from glass.

Next dry day i will run some silicone sealant around windshield.

Something i did note was when i jacked up the left side of car, both wheels were off the ground.
Could the body twist causing windshield to pull off it's glue.
Years ago i fitted camera just in front of wind deflector. On play back the picture rocks from side to side, must be bodywork flexing.
 
If the car had a great enough twisting force to pull the windscreen from its bond, i think it would crack before that happened.
Our Yeti screen cracked when i lent on it while attempting to clip a bulkhead trim back into place.
Rob
 
I chipped my windshield when i accidentally drop the wiper arm with wiper blade not fitted.

It hit black area so wasn't to noticeable.
 
Getting there slowly.
Interior still damp but plugged in the electrical boxes and got instrument panel to light up intermittent, then low battery came up.
So now battery on charge, see what happens tomorrow.
 
Charged battery fitted.
Fob in press start, very little happened.
Jabbed fob, press start, jiggle fob, press start, dash lights flashing on off intermittent, car finally submitted and started.
Tried clearing codes same faults came up on cas. One is coil fault on fob reader.
I don't think it's faulty, something wrong cas end.
Left car running several minutes to try warm up cabin.
Then couldn't stop car on the start button, had to stall it to stop.
Then ignition stayed on, had to disconnect battery, couldn't pull key from reader. Later took apart to retrieve key, but found unlike the original reader, 2 springs inside missing?.

Next step is large can of contact cleaner that has just been acquired.

The saga continues.
 
You've got more patience than me. I would had called WBAC a long while back, or taken a sledge hammer to it and claimed on insurance. :wink:
 
Back
Top Bottom