Key fob dead
- Thread starter flybobbie
- Start date
Well got it running reliable today.
Problem with contact cleaner, it chills the parts you are trying to clean and dry, like a freezing spray. Then condensation reforms because parts are so cold.
So got my mini camper van heater going with some hoover pipe and warmed the area up to drive off the moisture.
Still not 100% happy, the key fob seems to get stuck in the reader, needs a good yank to get it out.
Something there not right.
So what was wrong, not quite sure.
OBD did keep coming up with fob reader faults, hall sensor reader, start stop button and sense coil, up to 5 errors at a time.
Then a raft of errors after unplugging cas and reinstall, all cleared.
To get started i had to press the start button 10 times or more.
Car would run for a second then cut.
Seem like the system was relearning or something.
Then fired up and ran normal.
Problem with contact cleaner, it chills the parts you are trying to clean and dry, like a freezing spray. Then condensation reforms because parts are so cold.
So got my mini camper van heater going with some hoover pipe and warmed the area up to drive off the moisture.
Still not 100% happy, the key fob seems to get stuck in the reader, needs a good yank to get it out.
Something there not right.
So what was wrong, not quite sure.
OBD did keep coming up with fob reader faults, hall sensor reader, start stop button and sense coil, up to 5 errors at a time.
Then a raft of errors after unplugging cas and reinstall, all cleared.
To get started i had to press the start button 10 times or more.
Car would run for a second then cut.
Seem like the system was relearning or something.
Then fired up and ran normal.
Going to Screwfix shortly.
Although the car is now running, a warning keeps coming up "Start failure", when it starts no problem.
Still the same codes from fob slot.
If it persists, my car is still due the cable callbacks (is that the problem?).
Will take it to BMW, they can get the blame for the problem and sort it
Although the car is now running, a warning keeps coming up "Start failure", when it starts no problem.
Still the same codes from fob slot.
If it persists, my car is still due the cable callbacks (is that the problem?).
Will take it to BMW, they can get the blame for the problem and sort it
Good job hardware stores are closed tomorrow. (Sledge hammer looks like a cheap solution :evil: ).
So jump in car, start, smell burning, ign. off. Now what.
So strip back all the under dash trim and anything after market regards lighting i fitted, can't see anything burnt.
Smell the modules nothing.
Now have restraint system fault that won't clear.
Car now won't restart.
Checked battery through obd, showing only 44% charge, 98% 2 days ago after charge.
So on charge 3 hours, back in car as i need to lock it, starts no problem.
Run for 5 minutes, stop engine, try to restart, dead, no crank.
Makes me wonder if some relay is the problem or the 6 month old battery is faulty. Funny how it starts on a freshly charge battery or is disconnecting the battery resetting something?
So jump in car, start, smell burning, ign. off. Now what.
So strip back all the under dash trim and anything after market regards lighting i fitted, can't see anything burnt.
Smell the modules nothing.
Now have restraint system fault that won't clear.
Car now won't restart.
Checked battery through obd, showing only 44% charge, 98% 2 days ago after charge.
So on charge 3 hours, back in car as i need to lock it, starts no problem.
Run for 5 minutes, stop engine, try to restart, dead, no crank.
Makes me wonder if some relay is the problem or the 6 month old battery is faulty. Funny how it starts on a freshly charge battery or is disconnecting the battery resetting something?
Well after the 3-4 minute engine run today i touched the alternator, was quite hot. But there again close to the oil cooler.
Voltage out is normal though, initially battery 12.2, alternator kicks in 14.2 or just over volts.
Next plan, go see local breaker on Tuesday see if i can get HID ballast and a few relays to play with.
If i find it's a relay i will invest in new relay.
Voltage out is normal though, initially battery 12.2, alternator kicks in 14.2 or just over volts.
Next plan, go see local breaker on Tuesday see if i can get HID ballast and a few relays to play with.
If i find it's a relay i will invest in new relay.
Picking up new starter motor tomorrow.
Hope that cures the problem.
Time gone by without obd, key in ignition, lights on and turn, no start, which normal accompanied with clicks from the starter, which would mean duff battery.
No turn or sounds duff starter.
What is that rule, go for the simplest thing first.
Obd has it's uses but could lead you down the wrong path.
N52 engine remove the air box intake, inlet manifold and you can just push it far enough over to reach the starter and extract it.
I was surprised it was about the size of a can of beans.
Hope that cures the problem.
Time gone by without obd, key in ignition, lights on and turn, no start, which normal accompanied with clicks from the starter, which would mean duff battery.
No turn or sounds duff starter.
What is that rule, go for the simplest thing first.
Obd has it's uses but could lead you down the wrong path.
N52 engine remove the air box intake, inlet manifold and you can just push it far enough over to reach the starter and extract it.
I was surprised it was about the size of a can of beans.
Special Kay
Active member
I've just skimmed your thread, it sounds like a man's worst nightmare. Personally, I wouldn't be going down the stealers route. I'd be looking for an specialist auto electrician locally. They'd have the skills, experience and expertise to analyse and problem solve this issue.
Well replaced starter.
No joy.
But my latest thinking is there is a problem somewhere in the restraint system.
Seems if this isn't up to par, won't allow a start.
Going to trace that wiring for a problem.
Might be something as stupid as i forgot to reconnect the pax air bag switch when i removed the left panel
No joy.
But my latest thinking is there is a problem somewhere in the restraint system.
Seems if this isn't up to par, won't allow a start.
Going to trace that wiring for a problem.
Might be something as stupid as i forgot to reconnect the pax air bag switch when i removed the left panel
Well sorted.
So racking brain, on obd, no clutch switch, no foot brake.
No Terminal R voltage, all others ok.
Clutch switch and brake on diagram say terminal R signal on cas.
Is the clutch switch or brake stopping a start.
So jump in, key in, press start, ign. on.
So i have propped up piece of paper on high level brake light and see that it is on, not even pressed brake pedal. :|
Very strange. So check rear of car, all brake lights on.
So stuck brake switch? (Looks like some sort of Hall or proximity sensor, not a mechanical switch).
I check and see it is damp.
I remove it, pull out plug.
Pins damp with copper verdigris growing.
Try start with brake switch disconnected, foot on clutch, press start and fires up!
And fires at every start attempt. Brakes light permanently on at the moment.
So i clear all fault codes, only one's left are the headlight, awaiting the lamp hid driver for that and brake switch.
Have ordered new switch, but will try to get current one working.
So now a happy bunny.
Only taken seems like 5 weeks to sort.
So racking brain, on obd, no clutch switch, no foot brake.
No Terminal R voltage, all others ok.
Clutch switch and brake on diagram say terminal R signal on cas.
Is the clutch switch or brake stopping a start.
So jump in, key in, press start, ign. on.
So i have propped up piece of paper on high level brake light and see that it is on, not even pressed brake pedal. :|
Very strange. So check rear of car, all brake lights on.
So stuck brake switch? (Looks like some sort of Hall or proximity sensor, not a mechanical switch).
I check and see it is damp.
I remove it, pull out plug.
Pins damp with copper verdigris growing.
Try start with brake switch disconnected, foot on clutch, press start and fires up!
And fires at every start attempt. Brakes light permanently on at the moment.
So i clear all fault codes, only one's left are the headlight, awaiting the lamp hid driver for that and brake switch.
Have ordered new switch, but will try to get current one working.
So now a happy bunny.
Only taken seems like 5 weeks to sort.
This is the problem with these solid state switches.
They operate on low currents so easily short circuited.
Proper contacts might wear out, but that is easy to test with meter or bulb and battery.
Or simply see it is broken.
They are more robust to the environment.
They operate on low currents so easily short circuited.
Proper contacts might wear out, but that is easy to test with meter or bulb and battery.
Or simply see it is broken.
They are more robust to the environment.
flybobbie said:Well sorted.
So racking brain, on obd, no clutch switch, no foot brake.
No Terminal R voltage, all others ok.
Clutch switch and brake on diagram say terminal R signal on cas.
Is the clutch switch or brake stopping a start.
So jump in, key in, press start, ign. on.
So i have propped up piece of paper on high level brake light and see that it is on, not even pressed brake pedal. :|
Very strange. So check rear of car, all brake lights on.
So stuck brake switch? (Looks like some sort of Hall or proximity sensor, not a mechanical switch).
I check and see it is damp.
I remove it, pull out plug.
Pins damp with copper verdigris growing.
Try start with brake switch disconnected, foot on clutch, press start and fires up!
And fires at every start attempt. Brakes light permanently on at the moment.
So i clear all fault codes, only one's left are the headlight, awaiting the lamp hid driver for that and brake switch.
Have ordered new switch, but will try to get current one working.
So now a happy bunny.
Only taken seems like 5 weeks to sort.
11/10 for perseverance..I’d have torched the car by now :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :headbang:
So question now is did the shorted brake light switch initially throw up the key slot and button "failure" and stop it working.
I won't bother trying the old slot now it's working, but there might be nothing wrong with fob reader.
I fitted new battery and case to one key. Worth doing, now has a much larger range, so the old battery was a bit tired or the fob reader was very inefficient at charging battery, just enough.
I won't bother trying the old slot now it's working, but there might be nothing wrong with fob reader.
I fitted new battery and case to one key. Worth doing, now has a much larger range, so the old battery was a bit tired or the fob reader was very inefficient at charging battery, just enough.
Special Kay
Active member
I'm glad you've managed to rectify your issues. I had a conversation with a mechanic mate of mine, he mentioned a decent auto electrician in blackheath, shell corner. Not a million miles away from you who seems to be competent.
