Key fob dead

There is a good indy in Stourbridge for BMW and Merc.
.
I took to cleaning the plug for the switch with a very fine drill bit.
Looks like it's been rusting for some time, but the pins are only about 2mm apart, so doesn't take much for tracking if wet.
(Why was it wet, i don't know, can't see any leaks).
I did get smell of burning with ign. on.
At first i thought it was under the seat, because had restraint system fault come on the iDrive screen, but took it out and was all ok.

It was the brake switch and plug making the smell, having giving it a sniff.

Something else i noticed was the spotty white corrosion on the magnesium used to mount various parts, like condensation spots.
 
So now the engine is running i can try the dried out HID driver unit.
Well that's working fine.

Tried the cleaned up brake switch and plug, not working. Brought back the restraint system errors and no start.
So now awaiting the new brake light switch.

(For ref. switch £35 +vat BMW, £11 Ebay).

I have a feeling i might have to visit my local breaker and get a new connector plug.
 
flybobbie said:
So now the engine is running i can try the dried out HID driver unit.
Well that's working fine.

Tried the cleaned up brake switch and plug, not working. Brought back the restraint system errors and no start.
So now awaiting the new brake light switch.

(For ref. switch £35 +vat BMW, £11 Ebay).

I have a feeling i might have to visit my local breaker and get a new connector plug.

How come you seem to be so water logged /suffering from so much corrosion?
 
So took my exchange starter back to Eurocarparts and asked if they do the brake switch. Yes 33 quid, so couldn't wait for the Ebay one, so bought.
Fitted, all fault codes cancelled, working great.
So drove about 10 feet, bong!

DSC fault and hill assist fault.

I am hoping this is because i noticed i hadn't re-attached the lamp leveler at the front right wheel after the damper change.
 
I forgot to check if the brake lights actually were off after fitting brake switch and starting engine....................still on!

So it seems 2 wires are engine lock out and other 2 for the brake lights.
So i need to give the connector a good clean and try again.

Be real pain if i have to source a connector and fit..
 
So removed connecting plug, cleaned contacts, refitted, cleared any codes.
So ign. on..brake lights still on.
Stupid flipping car.
Now got to trace all the light wiring and modules.

Next try is to pull brake light fuse and refit, i see what happens.
Seems might be some sort of fault indication staying on as i have seen DSC fault when moving off on test run.
 
Fixed! :driving:

Well switch bought for £34 from Eurocarparts, faulty.
I bought it so i didn't have to wait for the cheapo £11 one off Ebay.

Well fitted the ECP on and brake lights still stuck on. Tried pulling fuses, disconnecting battery.
Started checking the wires to switch with multimeter, then thought try fitting the cheap switch.
Well it worked, the ECP is faulty.
Another week of racking brain unnecessarily.
I tried each in turn by placing a craft knife blade on the end of switch, as switch as magnet inside.
Cheapo worked, ECP didn't.

Shows even new can have faults, don't assume it's any better than what came off.
 
You’ll need a week in a darkened room tö reduce your stress levels!

As you said, new is no guarantee - Years ago a colleague bought stop / tail bulb - it had a trail of filament bridging the the two circuits. Old fashioned technology but it still caused him some problems.
 
flybobbie said:
Fixed! :driving:

Well switch bought for £34 from Eurocarparts, faulty.
I bought it so i didn't have to wait for the cheapo £11 one off Ebay.

Well fitted the ECP on and brake lights still stuck on. Tried pulling fuses, disconnecting battery.
Started checking the wires to switch with multimeter, then thought try fitting the cheap switch.
Well it worked, the ECP is faulty.
Another week of racking brain unnecessarily.
I tried each in turn by placing a craft knife blade on the end of switch, as switch as magnet inside.
Cheapo worked, ECP didn't.

Shows even new can have faults, don't assume it's any better than what came off.

On my N20 E89 bought a new Vaico boost sensor as I thought the original was duff…it was way out of calibration…fortunately I managed to get ISTA working and the test routine spotted it…could have been a whole lot of time wasted otherwise…
 
OBD reader said switch was working, probably the part that allows engine to start, but having 4 wires obviously some of those wires were not getting right signal to switch brake lights off. Wiring diagram shows connections from the switch to dsc for example, as that came up as error soon after car moved on early success getting engine started.
bl.jpg
I assume the link to cas allowed a start but the blue/red wire missing signal.
 
20221127_091502.jpg

This was the start of 5 weeks fault finding.
Still not sure if they were actually faulty or whether the brake light switch was a consequence of getting damp whilst standing and condensation running on to brake switch and shorting.
Didn't help matters and my blood pressure that replacement switch was faulty.
 
Re damp
Had a Merc 220 coupe years ago kept cutting out completely in heavy rain. Company car so into dealer replaced loads of parts behind dash under steering column etc. Didn't clear it.
Whilst still a problem windscreen got stone damage and had to be replaces, done by Autoglass at my drive. Fiitter fetched me out tp show almost minute gap in sealant above steering column- source of leak that had caused all problems. Car fine after but why dealer hadn't even realised that fault was to to due to damp. Every occasion it went in was during or just after heavy rain.
Has your car had a new screen fitted?
 
Yes.
Twice.

Need a few dry days.

Only problem driving home today from work where i have been working on it, MOT booked tomorrow, abs warning came up.
Half dozen fault lights came up. Emergency brake function failed, i tried it.
iDrive doesn't open with this fault.
So obd reader out again, said abs pressure switch.
So went through several resets, pump cycle, brake fluid level sensor fail, etc.
Gone for now.
Make sure it doesn't come up tomorrow.

Starting to fall out of love with this car. :headbang:
 
So took car for mot, abs warning comes up, cancel mot.
So restart, no abs warning, take it shopping, no abs warning (ebrake function fails, but not hand brake)..
Get home, no abs warning.
Stupid f*&^%$g car.

So obd reader out cancel codes, see how long it lasts.
 
So now ordered two rear wheel speed abs sensors.
As i have noticed some wheel slip, which haven't had for a long time.
Put that down to resetting everything and flooring on some slippy road.
 
So sensors arrived, will fit shortly, but might not need them... :roll:

Codes now coming up;
6E30, dsc hyd. control unit, pressure sensor plausibility. What pressure that is not sure, obd shows brake pressure at pedal.
And on obd active test, brake fluid level sensor not working.
So it might think fluid is low, which it isn't and reduce abs function.
Looks like it is normally closed, so i can play around with bypassing or shorting.
It is wired straight to abs unit plug.
 
Well would help if Foxwell reader showed right results.
Said brake fluid level sensor not working, so disconnect at reservoir, bong fail, but said working!
It's software is back to front.

So drove home today, no abs warnings :?
 
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