How to Remove and Replace your Soft Top Motor..56k Beware

Thanks for this Shipkiller. Have just spent a long day following these instructions and almost have a completed job. Had a moment of panic when putting the roof back in and it no longer folded all the way manually (even with the override pulled out), but I think this was just some air in the hydraulics as once I reattached the wiring, the roof seems to work perfectly. Wouldn't have been able to do it at all without this how-to.

A question for you though. How did you get the hoop back in the clips? We found this really hard and I'm hoping that once a few of the bolts are in, I'll be able to lever it in from inside the boot.
 
JamesL said:
Thanks for this Shipkiller. Have just spent a long day following these instructions and almost have a completed job. Had a moment of panic when putting the roof back in and it no longer folded all the way manually (even with the override pulled out), but I think this was just some air in the hydraulics as once I reattached the wiring, the roof seems to work perfectly. Wouldn't have been able to do it at all without this how-to.

A question for you though. How did you get the hoop back in the clips? We found this really hard and I'm hoping that once a few of the bolts are in, I'll be able to lever it in from inside the boot.
Click to expand...


I just pushed them in. On the left side, I heard and felt it seat. I did not feel or hear the same on the right side, but looking at it from the inside, through the rear it was in place.
 
Hi JamesL

I bolted the rear of the hoop in three places, made sure the roof was half way, then lifted the hoop end slightly and placed over the clip and just pushed down, you can see the clips from the boot, putting the top back on the car was the hardest part of the job.
 
Thanks guys.

simtech - that's the approach that I was going to try. I got as far as putting the 3 bolts in and then testing that the mechanism actually worked by connecting up the wiring and raising and lowering the roof, but as it was then 11pm, I thought I'd call it a night and finish the job another time. Good to know that my approach should work. :D
 
I also wanted to thank you for the write up. I got quoted $2500 at the BMW dealer to replace the pump on my 2003 Z4 (60k miles). I bought the pump for around $325 and had my mechanic follow your instructions. He charge me $600 for the labor which is way cheaper than the dealer. I would've tried it but I don't have a garage. Regardless I saved a lot of money. Thank you very much! :thumbsup:
 
Just wanted to say another quick thank you to Shipkiller and simtech for the instructions and advice. Managed to finish off the job successfully yesterday. Took ages, but it's all gone back together perfectly and I couldn't have done it without the help here.

Two tips of my own to add for anyone else who attempts this:

1) When you loosen the rear panels to access the cabling and unclip it, the clips on the passenger side (UK) can be slipped off the bracket that attaches to the metalwork by moving the lever in the middle of the back part of the clip to one side and pushing down. On the driver's side, the process is the same, but the clip is upside down, so you need to find the middle part underneath the clip and push upwards.

2) When you go to put the panels back on, there's a black plastic lug that is clipped into the bodywork next to the door seal and this needs to go into a slot on the back of the rear panel. You can just lever the plug out of the metalwork, pop it back into the slot and then push it back into the bodywork. I spent ages trying to bend the rear panel to slot back in and then removed the centre console to remove the rear panel before I discovered this little gem! :headbang:
 
Hi,

New to the site and found a lot of very useful information here already.

Just to confirm, is it possible to remove/replace the soft top motor with fully removing the soft top or is this the first port of call?

Thanks
Willsm
 
hi Shipkiller,

I read you post a lot of times,I think I can do it , thank you.

But how can i release the air when I change the new motor? ( you mean that hood?)

You said up and down the top sevrel times, witch step is it?

I put the all top part backand just use it as normal sevrel times?

or just press release top buttom when I hast change new motor?

Thanks any way, I am going to di it in sevrel day
 
I am busy replacing my motor. I noticed that the connectors for the hydrolic pipes have changed sides.

On the new motor 11 13 is now where 12 14 was on the old motor and 12 14 is where 11 13 was. Has anyone else noticed this?
 
I've purchased my 2003 Z4 used from the dealer w/the extended warranty, and the top stopped working. They said they will cover the motor, but not the housing. Shouldn't that be covered by warranty also? Or is it consider as maintenance that needs to be replaced?
 
Remember these people probably have no idea of the reality of the problem. They see the housing as a reusable part. "Seal it up and it'll be good as new." Like where you have to reuse bracketry when you change an alternator. They're just being cheap. Try challenging them, explaining a new housing is essential to properly seal the motor and prevent the same thing from happening again, that the original design is flawed, that a ratty old housing is impossible to seal properly.

They are like insurance companies, they push for the sake of pushing. You have to push back to get what's fair. If it comes down to it, if they're paying for motor and labor, I'd buy the housing and have the mechanic install it whilst everything is apart.
 
Hi,

can anyone help me ?,
my roof Hydro-motor is not working i need to replace it.

I can't get the roof down manually, I've tried pulling on the RED finger pull device in the boot (with roof back a little and unlocked)but it's very tight and I'm sure it will break before it releases anything.

it is a hydraulic bypass I'm guessing ?

Anyone got any Ideas ? It's a 2004 Z4 and I have confirmed it's the motor. :headbang:
 
Tim182 said:
I am busy replacing my motor. I noticed that the connectors for the hydrolic pipes have changed sides.

On the new motor 11 13 is now where 12 14 was on the old motor and 12 14 is where 11 13 was. Has anyone else noticed this?
Click to expand...

Has anyone else experienced this, if so what did you do?
 
BettyBmw03 said:
Tim182 said:
I am busy replacing my motor. I noticed that the connectors for the hydrolic pipes have changed sides.

On the new motor 11 13 is now where 12 14 was on the old motor and 12 14 is where 11 13 was. Has anyone else noticed this?
Click to expand...

Has anyone else experienced this, if so what did you do?
Click to expand...

Hi,

I didn't have this problem ..but I did read about it on this forum somewhere, but can't remember where.

shipkiller has a good write up too, but not sure if it covers the problem you're having , good luck
 
So, I have officially replaced the motor with a new motor. Sealed the insulation with silicone and it should be cured by now. Going to try to drop the roof back and and PRAY IT WORKS!
 
BettyBmw03 said:
So, I have officially replaced the motor with a new motor. Sealed the insulation with silicone and it should be cured by now. Going to try to drop the roof back and and PRAY IT WORKS!
Click to expand...


Well done, let us know if it's OK, mine is still a little slow to go up..think there is still air working it's way out, if I lived in a sunnier climate it would probably be ok by now...but alas !!
 
Problems, problems, problems.....

I was able to get the roof w/new motor installed today. I attempted to lower the roof AND>>>>>

The windows went down as needed
The latch released from the windshield
I can hear the new motor turning as should
AND NOTHING!!!!!!

I checked the trunk switch, the tray table, the bowden cable....I am stuck and NEED HELP :(

The bowden cable seems to working properly. Bc when engaged the roof opens smoothly and when in non bypass position the roof will open 1/4 of the way and you meet resistance.

I am by far open to suggestions.

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!
 
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