Handbrake Adjustment

S

scousefly

Member
Sheffield, Halfway
Why is it when ever I go local there is always an issue?
Due to logistics I decided to get my local garage who I trust to replace my front and rear discs and pads, they also did the handbrake shoes. Now every thing was new including fitting kits front and back but they cant adjust the handbrake cable.

Apparently they need a tool which they dont have to depress the spring under the handbrake cable, however, after talking to my usual indy he reckons its an eassy job of loosening off a couple of nuts, adjusting the knurled nut on the rear hub and then tightening said nuts at the handbrake end.

Unfortunately my local says these nuts which I assume where the bowden cables are attached dare only accessible via the propshaft tunnel. My indy described what I should see when you take the handbrake cover back but it wasnt how he described aaaaaarrrrrrgggg :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :headbang

Any help gratefully received
 
TIS method
http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/08/07/65

'Special' tools - I haven't done the rears yet but the betting is you could get by without these tools, that was certainly the case with a different tool for the front.
http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/07/58/22
http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/06/48/25
 
The E85/6 handbrake is self adjusting within a limited range. Of course, it can get out of range, or if the shoes are replaced, adjustment is required. The TIS link Ewazix provided above doesn't outline the adjustment, but the bit about locking out the adjuster spring is still required. You can get by without a special tool, or fabricate one. This takes the adjuster out of the equation so you can adjust the shoes to a known state.

The official adjustment outlines how to do it with the wheels in place. Don't bother unless you've done this a dozen times. Just take the wheel off so you can see what you're doing. You'll still be working blind as it is. You may want to take the rotor/drum off to see the adjustment mechanism if you haven't played with it before. Also verify which way tightens and which way loosens. It's a typical drum brake notched wheel adjuster. No special tool required.

With the drum back in place, adjust the shoes outwards until the drum is firmly locked. Back off the adjuster 9 notches. Unhook the adjuster spring and and operate the brake firmly several times. At one notch there should be no drag on the wheels, and should be firmly engaged at 10 or fewer notches. If not, adjust the shoes accordingly.

You do have to remove the prop shaft to access the cable anchorage, but this is not where the adjustment is done.
 
Well I rung my Indy again who said he wouldn't adjust As some one else had done the work even though I said he had no tool or wasn't confident enough he basically said tough :? So I have booked it with Sytner sheffield on Friday an time to find a new Indy. In fact I may just go dealer now as the indy ain't that far short on His prices but I don't like his attitude, his loss
 
Sytner Sheffield have adjusted everything and the service was second to none so very happy withthem so think I will be putting more business their way :thumbsup:

Indys loss but I really dont care with the way they were when I needed some help :evil: :evil:
 
Good result! :thumbsup: It's astounding how few businesses understand the importance of customer service. Disturbing how those that don't manage to stay in business.
 
scousefly said:
Sytner Sheffield have adjusted everything and the service was second to none so very happy withthem so think I will be putting more business their way :thumbsup:

Indys loss but I really dont care with the way they were when I needed some help :evil: :evil:
Click to expand...
......

give them a name check so others are aware of the poor service :thumbsdown:
 
Autotechnic at meadowhall.

Like I said upto this point I was ok with them but now serious second thoughts and the Dealer service was excellent compared
 
thread resurection but going buy new front/rear discs pads and sensors next month since they look horrendous mainly and i'm heading towards mot time so it'll be in for a service.

for the sake of £15 going buy new handbrake shoes as well
do i need a pair of these or do the shoes only live on one rear side? seen videos for the adjustment etc and they never really mention about doing it on more than one wheel.
 
Yes.
Be sure to use the TIS method, so first disable the automatic tensioner under the handbrake boot.

Also when you're going to the MOT (or just after you installed your shoes), drive around an pull a few times on the hand brake (when youre driving). That way the shoes bed in. That is a way to prevent inbalance between the sides. (don't overdo it whith the hand braking or the shoes burn, dont do it in a corner unless you're rally driving etc)

Also it's 'good practice' to grind the edges of the brake shoes a little bit tapered with a grinding stone/grinder etc
That prevents the brake material seperating in some occasions (or break up in the corners). Not really important but some people swear by it.

Like this (on the top)
na.jpg

This is the automatic tensioner; it's hard to reach. I do it with either a long screwdriver or a tyre iron. you press the spring, and a little hook grabs the end of the spring:

this is what you have to dismantle:
losmaken.jpg

Tensioner:
terugduwen.jpg
 
Won't be me doing it, i'll have a go at most things if i've a guide but with my total lack of patience i wouldn't trust myself to go near brakes.

so that £15 is a full rear set? okie dokie! cheers
 
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