Flat battery, v. high current drain - Fuse No. 8 under bonnet. Water pump continuous...

andyfanshawe said:
Heat cameras ( infra red) are now being used as diagnostic aids to see where the heat is in a circuit or circuits. Expensive (£500 +) though they may be. TIPM ( totally integrated power modules) or intelligent fuse boxes ( chrysler especially) are good examples where heat build due to current drain deep.inside the component can be seen but not felt.
Sorry to interrupt the thread, but may help someone out in future.

Andy.

Which is why I have a Flir One Pro, cracking piece of kit for jobs like this..

You can actually SEE what's starting the power, even in a packed fuse/relay box.

Mike
 
Ducklakeview said:
andyfanshawe said:
Heat cameras ( infra red) are now being used as diagnostic aids to see where the heat is in a circuit or circuits. Expensive (£500 +) though they may be. TIPM ( totally integrated power modules) or intelligent fuse boxes ( chrysler especially) are good examples where heat build due to current drain deep.inside the component can be seen but not felt.
Sorry to interrupt the thread, but may help someone out in future.

Andy.

Which is why I have a Flir One Pro, cracking piece of kit for jobs like this..

You can actually SEE what's starting the power, even in a packed fuse/relay box.

Mike

Sweet!!
 
All good stuff here. I pulled the fuse (No. 8) and the noise stopped. Put it back in again and it whirred back up again. I'm assuming it's the water pump (even though I can't see it). I can feel vibration in a water hose and the noise does appear to be lower front of engine.

I'd really like to get hold of a chart of those fuses to confirm but also what I really need is a wiring diagram to see the details of how it is switched i.e. where is the temperature sensor? I'm pretty certain this will be where my problem is (unless ECU is faulty).
it
 
Ok from what I can work out, the pump has 4 wires, 12v from fuse 8, switched 12v from engine control relay via fuse 1 , earth , and a control wire from pin 26 on the ecu.
Check that fuse 1 goes dead when you switch off the ign if it does then the fault probably lies within the water pump as it appears the control module is built into it.

Hope this makes sense.

Stuart
 
Is it possible the switched 12v supply from fuse 1 could be not switching off due to a relay stuck “up”
Rob
 
Great! Thanks Stuart. That seems to align with this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5P5i-c7F7AE. He really goes to town with his testing equipment. I notice a couple of things. From his scope the current draw was in the same sort of region that I have and I recognised the noise.

I also see someone else has posted a comment "I worked at a BMW dealer for 4 years, and both the thermostat and the coolant pumps were high failure items. The coolant pumps would fail intermittently like you experienced, or they would completely fail. When they failed completely you would know right away because the coolant fan would kick on high at all times as a fail safe." (I guess he means pump rather than fan).

I'll see what happens to Fuse 1 with ignition then get it booked in. I don't have much of an appetite for doing that without a lift....
 
Newbers said:
Great! Thanks Stuart. That seems to align with this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5P5i-c7F7AE. He really goes to town with his testing equipment. I notice a couple of things. From his scope the current draw was in the same sort of region that I have and I recognised the noise.

I also see someone else has posted a comment "I worked at a BMW dealer for 4 years, and both the thermostat and the coolant pumps were high failure items. The coolant pumps would fail intermittently like you experienced, or they would completely fail. When they failed completely you would know right away because the coolant fan would kick on high at all times as a fail safe." (I guess he means pump rather than fan).

I'll see what happens to Fuse 1 with ignition then get it booked in. I don't have much of an appetite for doing that without a lift....

He could mean the fan & not the pump, when my pump was failing (but still working) the coolant fan would be on at varying speeds as soon as the engine started-I didn’t recognise this as normal & diagnostics revealed a failing pump (implausible pump speed) :?
Rob
 
Interestingly the cars done <>75,000 which seems to be when they gone. I guess I'm going to have to get it done sooner or later so better not to have to get carried 100 miles home by the AA. My local specialist will want to use BMW parts so I expect that to be eye watering. Already in the last 30 days: Road tax, 2 x tyres, MOT, battery, Gearbox + diff oil. Ouch!
 
Newbers said:
Interestingly the cars done <>75,000 which seems to be when they gone. I guess I'm going to have to get it done sooner or later so better not to have to get carried 100 miles home by the AA. My local specialist will want to use BMW parts so I expect that to be eye watering. Already in the last 30 days: Road tax, 2 x tyres, MOT, battery, Gearbox + diff oil. Ouch!

The pump is made by pierburg not Bmw, they just put it in a pretty box and double the price. Get it from eBay and save some money :thumbsup:
Rob
 
Yep, £250 from Ebay and defo under an hour to fit. If you are paying more than £350 you are being robbed. Another £50 for the stat gets you to £400.
 
Anyone happen to know who makes the OE thermostat? (Not that the OE version is of a quality to boast about....)
 
Newbers said:
Anyone happen to know who makes the OE thermostat? (Not that the OE version is of a quality to boast about....)

Seems to be a lot of brands making this part:

BEHR:TM 14 97
BORG & BECK:BBT221
ERA:350337
GATES:TH39797
JP GROUP:1414601119
MEYLE:328 228 0005
QUINTON HAZELL:QTH640K
SASIC:3306083
SWAG:20 93 0265
TRISCAN:8620 23197
VEMO:V20-99-1277 - V20-99-1277-1
WAHLER:410086.97D0 - 4689.97D0
 
Stuartt said:
Ok from what I can work out, the pump has 4 wires, 12v from fuse 8, switched 12v from engine control relay via fuse 1 , earth , and a control wire from pin 26 on the ecu.
Check that fuse 1 goes dead when you switch off the ign if it does then the fault probably lies within the water pump as it appears the control module is built into it.

Hope this makes sense.

Stuart
Pulling fuse 1 didn't stop the pump from whirring. I got about 6v across the terminals (with fuse out obviously). It seems pretty clear that the fault is either in the thermostat or the pump control.
 
bradz said:
Buy the BMW thermostat, The aftermarket ones all seam to be in a plastic housing.

Are they not supposed to be plastic? RealOEM shows it that way.....
 
Newbers said:
Stuartt said:
Ok from what I can work out, the pump has 4 wires, 12v from fuse 8, switched 12v from engine control relay via fuse 1 , earth , and a control wire from pin 26 on the ecu.
Check that fuse 1 goes dead when you switch off the ign if it does then the fault probably lies within the water pump as it appears the control module is built into it.

Hope this makes sense.

Stuart
Pulling fuse 1 didn't stop the pump from whirring. I got about 6v across the terminals (with fuse out obviously). It seems pretty clear that the fault is either in the thermostat or the pump control.

Seems to me like the relay within the water pump has stuck in the closed circuit position causing it to constantly run then.
I guess you'll be replacing the pump then for sure.

Stuart
 
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