I "think" Bimmerlink can do this and I really need to buy that myself! 
E89 Battery - Google search!! (Typical)
- Thread starter N52 ZED
- Start date
West Midlands
It does look like it has extra clamping holes flybobbie which made me think whether the bigger battery could also fit / was designed to fit.
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SV8Predator
Member
Perfect. Thanks SV8.
Scottish Borders
The battery compartment / its electrical interfaces are identical across all models quite why some had 70ah and some had 80ah is a mystery.. my two E89s had different ones..the important things is ALWAYS to code AND register as some illiterate muppet may have not done this properly in the past.. primary reason the replacement batteries don't last as long as the originals is due to incorrect coding /registration seen quite a few on the various cars I have help buy / update for others..and in fact my 35is was not correctly coded when I bought it..Will do EI and thanks. I’m hoping BimmerLink will help me code it. If not I guess it will be back down to Halfords.
Coding is notifying the DME that the battery design has changed ie 70ah to 80ah or 80ah to 70 ah or AGM to flooded cell..
Registering is telling the DME to reset its assumptions about the current battery and start afresh.
What's been happening is that now 17 years on some /several muppets have 'twiddled' or not and you don't know what the baseline is..
So the simple thing is to re-code correctly AND register..
Almost all tools that do one will do the other..
Registering is telling the DME to reset its assumptions about the current battery and start afresh.
What's been happening is that now 17 years on some /several muppets have 'twiddled' or not and you don't know what the baseline is..
So the simple thing is to re-code correctly AND register..
Almost all tools that do one will do the other..
At the summit of the picturesque fens
OK, this thread is getting way too complicated IMO. You are being given the @B21 version of 'how things need to be done', which are always complex and costly. He is not very good at 'reading a room'. Just his way or forget it.
Buying a huge capacity battery (and all the implications of this) is NOT going to sort out your window issue. Chances are your window judder is nothing to do with your battery.
However.....if your battery is past it's best and you want (or need) a new battery, get the same spec one that is in the car now. You know it will fit and you won't need expensive software to code it. You will need to register it, as if your current battery is duff, the charging system will default to trying to charge a new battery like the existing duff one. Almost all cheap code readers can register a battery.
There is absolutely no point in fitting a larger capacity than needed battery. Your alternator can only do so much, so it is a waste of money and effort.
As @B21 said,
70Ah or 80Ah AGM is the correct specification
Fun fact:
Even if 155/80/15" wheels may be mounted on our E89, nobody is discussing this.
The opposite happens with batteries: many discussions worldwide around "the bigger, the better"
What a technical nonsense! But of course, you can do this.
70Ah or 80Ah AGM is the correct specification
Fun fact:
Even if 155/80/15" wheels may be mounted on our E89, nobody is discussing this.
The opposite happens with batteries: many discussions worldwide around "the bigger, the better"
What a technical nonsense! But of course, you can do this.
Pardon, @Pondy,
Some of your statements are correct, many are absolutely incorrect from a technical point of view regarding the technology built into our E89.
Why mixing up truth and fakes so intensively?
- The generator for example is controlled by a databus called BSD to be regulated by the DME. Yes, it's controlled and not "free" running like in former cars.
- Registering at least means deleting all the statistical records the IBS has collected 24/7 over the lifetime of the old battery, mostly over the last 10-15 years.
- Different battery capacities (more or even less) have to be coded into the DME.
- ...
Thanks again everyone,
As a none mechanical or electrical person I love forums like this which helps bring others knowledge together in order to make an informed decision myside.
One of my biggest bug bears with evolution these days is too much choice. For me (in this example) I just want a battery that works - so why is there so much choice (2 real choices in this example). Taking on board the additional Coding and Registering "complication" I'm then faced with making my own choice but also trying to decide if like-for-like is also the easy option.
Not knowing the previous history of where the current battery came from (OK I know it was Halfords!) and whether it was coded and registered correctly based on the battery before that and everything else when taken into consideration, I also end up feeling I need to "start from scratch" to make sure its all in order this time around.
I'm not that fussed over a slightly bigger battery or not - but if the battery tray accepts it then for an extra £15 (£169 v £184) [8.8%] (v 13% capacity increase as B21 says) then sobeit.
The biggest "disappointment" is then (whichever battery I go for) and wanting to make sure its then "done right" - I need to make sure its both Coded and Registered correctly. Relying on what might have happened previously is not an option for my OCD! This then becomes the additional complication / frustration I could do without! Maybe an extra £50 at Halfords for them to fit it might be worth it afterall. (As long as they can both Code and Register it!)
I get a new battery might not help with my windows judder issue but when I get told that "80%+ of all E89 faults are traced to old/worn/discharged/not able to take a charge / not registered / not coded / incorrect type batteries" then I'd be foolish to ignore this and not "start from here". Afterall - I know the cars current battery is potentially old and certainly does not seem to be holding its charge so whatever I decide - a new battery is required.
PS: As always - thanks for taking the time to read and comment on my questions - Your views are appreciated. [The person who asks a question is a fool for a minute, the person who does not ask is a fool for life.]
Cheers.
As a none mechanical or electrical person I love forums like this which helps bring others knowledge together in order to make an informed decision myside.
One of my biggest bug bears with evolution these days is too much choice. For me (in this example) I just want a battery that works - so why is there so much choice (2 real choices in this example). Taking on board the additional Coding and Registering "complication" I'm then faced with making my own choice but also trying to decide if like-for-like is also the easy option.
Not knowing the previous history of where the current battery came from (OK I know it was Halfords!) and whether it was coded and registered correctly based on the battery before that and everything else when taken into consideration, I also end up feeling I need to "start from scratch" to make sure its all in order this time around.
I'm not that fussed over a slightly bigger battery or not - but if the battery tray accepts it then for an extra £15 (£169 v £184) [8.8%] (v 13% capacity increase as B21 says) then sobeit.
The biggest "disappointment" is then (whichever battery I go for) and wanting to make sure its then "done right" - I need to make sure its both Coded and Registered correctly. Relying on what might have happened previously is not an option for my OCD! This then becomes the additional complication / frustration I could do without! Maybe an extra £50 at Halfords for them to fit it might be worth it afterall. (As long as they can both Code and Register it!)
I get a new battery might not help with my windows judder issue but when I get told that "80%+ of all E89 faults are traced to old/worn/discharged/not able to take a charge / not registered / not coded / incorrect type batteries" then I'd be foolish to ignore this and not "start from here". Afterall - I know the cars current battery is potentially old and certainly does not seem to be holding its charge so whatever I decide - a new battery is required.
PS: As always - thanks for taking the time to read and comment on my questions - Your views are appreciated. [The person who asks a question is a fool for a minute, the person who does not ask is a fool for life.]
Cheers.
I don't use those tools so can't advise
Absolutely correct!
Both tools work fine with a compatible OBD Adapter.
Currently I'm using it on a daily basis on my E61 for live monitoring cooling parameters, which individually can be arranged as dashbord on the mobile (iOS, Android).
Have a look:
Clear recommendation of BimmerLink for monitoring, registering, resetting service data and reading fault codes.
BimmerCode is nice to have if the OBD Adapter is already in place.
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