raymond.harper
Senior member
https://www.online-parts.co.uk/mini-spare-parts/32307836809_Lower-Joint-Assy.html?language=en BMW MINI has this number for UK
E85 Hydraulic steering conversion part 1
- Thread starter raymond.harper
- Start date
raymond.harper
Senior member
I can see that in both diagrams they look the same but I do not think there would be a substancial difference in construction. I did notice that the two joints were slightly offset in relation to each other perhaps for centralisation of the rack. However the part seems to fit perfectly and I can find no fault with it. In a few days time I hope to have the car on the road and see how it is on the road.
yeah the diagrams are only for indication. There is no real physical information in the ETK, just part numbers and in which cars it's fitted.
If the joints are offset that could be due to alingment (so that the rhd steering column is in different alignment to the input shaft of the rack compared to the LHD setup).
They are universal joints and the characteristic of a universal joint that is not inline is that it results in a sinusiodal movement (thats why drive axles have cv joints and not universal joints). Maybe to turn one offset they try to compensate for that sinusiodal rotating movement.
this video explains a bit what I mean:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCMZz6YhbOQ
So if the total alignment is not completely straight on the rhd setup they could compensate by putting one universal joint on a different angle.
If the joints are offset that could be due to alingment (so that the rhd steering column is in different alignment to the input shaft of the rack compared to the LHD setup).
They are universal joints and the characteristic of a universal joint that is not inline is that it results in a sinusiodal movement (thats why drive axles have cv joints and not universal joints). Maybe to turn one offset they try to compensate for that sinusiodal rotating movement.
this video explains a bit what I mean:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCMZz6YhbOQ
So if the total alignment is not completely straight on the rhd setup they could compensate by putting one universal joint on a different angle.
raymond.harper
Senior member
Thank you for your input. I will keep a close eye on the shaft. I think the shafts are perhaps mirror images of each other and this should hopefully not produce a problem . The whole steering system seems to be very robust in comparison to other cars so I hope there should not be a problem.
How are you planning on tackling the electronic elements of the conversion if you don't mind me asking.
The dash light, traction control and steering angle sensor etc and possibly other things are all going to be issues I would imagine. The mechanical bits seem to be a fairly straight forward bolt on affair from what you have described and if it was me it would be the electrical side of things that would fill me with dread.
Intrigued to know how your going to tackle these
The dash light, traction control and steering angle sensor etc and possibly other things are all going to be issues I would imagine. The mechanical bits seem to be a fairly straight forward bolt on affair from what you have described and if it was me it would be the electrical side of things that would fill me with dread.
Intrigued to know how your going to tackle these
I read somewhere that you will simply get the steering wheel light on the dash and a code stored in the ecu. The traction etc will still work as the steering angle sensor is at the top of the column. I believe the error code and light can be coded out using the diagnostic software.
Car should drive fine
Mike
Car should drive fine
Mike
raymond.harper
Senior member
MACK said:
The answer is that I am not going to do anything. The car after the P/S failure had no isssues with airbag/ ESC and I still drove the car without any electrical problems so in short I am not going to do anything. My american friend who has done the conversion advises the removal of the pinion of the electric motor but I think if the steering works out alright I may just leave it alone.
Tbh, if you are leaving the eps system in place, I would be pulling the motor. Reason being is that the worm drive is designed to transmit power in one direction only. It's probably adding a lot of resistance in your system as it is, trying to work as it were, in reverse by spinning the motor as you turn the wheel.
Mike
Mike
raymond.harper
Senior member
Been very busy with this conversion. Many minor problems encountered but nearly there. Never going to change a serpentine belt ever again. Sorry video is sideways but this is how I have been seeing the world working under the car for the past week. Will write up more later but for now off to get the tracking done.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VT8gG8slI3Y
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VT8gG8slI3Y
raymond.harper said:
Looking good, looks like your nearly there. Congrats you must be relieved.
One thing that will be interesting will be your performance and fuel economy now. The main reason BMW will have selected EPS for the E85 over the E46 hydraulic system must surely be emissions and consequently fuel economy.
When we had our old E46 330i Cab we used to get 23-24mpg, mainly town driving. The 3.0i E85 we have manages 30-31 doing the same sort of thing. I have always put this down to the circa 300kg difference in weight between the two cars and in reality it probably is, but it will be interesting to see if you find a noticeable drop in performance and fuel economy now you have the hydraulic system. You always read about the power sapping load Hydraulic Power Steering Pumps and Air Con etc put on an engine.
With Air Con you can fairly easily tell the difference by just turning it off, but it strike me this seems like a rare opportunity to see the difference EPS has over hydraulic in the real world.
raymond.harper
Senior member
On Wednesday I seemed to spend all my time on the serpentine belt. Partly my own fault as my neighbour had lent me a small torque spanner when I should have bought a socket instead. This made it very difficult to fit the serpentine belt due partly to the wrong tool and very limited space. Next time, if there is a next time, I will get the proper socket.
Now the rack is fitted it is time to connect up the pipes.
First two banjo bolts which I bought quite cheaply from BMW. Different sizes so hose connections are different.The smaller one has a valve and goes into the top of the rack
The two bolts threaded through the hoses. The black pipe goes to the top of black nut on the left which then goes to the pump.
Both hoses now run across the rack and are fastened to the rack.One , return pipe, goes to the oild cooler
The reservoir has two hoses. One to the pump supply the other goes forward towards the front to meet a cooler. Both hoses loop to the right side of the alternator.
Picture of the pipes note the fluid cooler.
The fluid cooler is the next stage and I have not yet fitted it. My car is due in the body shop on Saturday so I just connected the two hoses together for now as I am only using the car for short journeys. I have bought a remote oil cooler and intend to remove the front bumper to fix it somewhere. The stock oil cooler could not be fitted due to space problems. I filled the reservoir tightened all the hoses and filled with fluid. A few bad sounds from the pump but after a few minutes once the fluid had circulated all was well. I could now turn the wheel with one hand ! Next off to the garage for a safety check and wheel alignment. First impressions. Power steering again ! Car drives fine with no vibration or kick back from the wheel. The car does not stall while parking. No warning lights are on except for power steering.
Now the rack is fitted it is time to connect up the pipes.
First two banjo bolts which I bought quite cheaply from BMW. Different sizes so hose connections are different.The smaller one has a valve and goes into the top of the rack
The two bolts threaded through the hoses. The black pipe goes to the top of black nut on the left which then goes to the pump.
Both hoses now run across the rack and are fastened to the rack.One , return pipe, goes to the oild cooler
The reservoir has two hoses. One to the pump supply the other goes forward towards the front to meet a cooler. Both hoses loop to the right side of the alternator.
Picture of the pipes note the fluid cooler.
The fluid cooler is the next stage and I have not yet fitted it. My car is due in the body shop on Saturday so I just connected the two hoses together for now as I am only using the car for short journeys. I have bought a remote oil cooler and intend to remove the front bumper to fix it somewhere. The stock oil cooler could not be fitted due to space problems. I filled the reservoir tightened all the hoses and filled with fluid. A few bad sounds from the pump but after a few minutes once the fluid had circulated all was well. I could now turn the wheel with one hand ! Next off to the garage for a safety check and wheel alignment. First impressions. Power steering again ! Car drives fine with no vibration or kick back from the wheel. The car does not stall while parking. No warning lights are on except for power steering.
raymond.harper
Senior member
Rack was £149srhutch said:
tie rods £35
Intermediate column second hand £120
Pump and hose second hand £100
Fluid £15
alignment £22
remote cooler £50
Special tools that £ did not have £40
Gas for blow lamp £6
Time taken. Two hours daily for around 6 days .
If I were to do this again I think I would spend £85 on a new pump and get new hoses made up by a local supplier . I would also buy the intermediate shaft new £300.
raymond.harper
Senior member
I think I just had the wrong tool for the job. The belt seemed very tight Watched how to do it on youtube but it was still a trial. No fan in my Z4 but still limited space. Also the car was not jacked up very high. Next time I will get the proper socket.GuidoK said:
raymond.harper
Senior member
Thank you 
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