Hello again,
So I thought I would change the discs and pads on my car because a). I haven't got much else to do at present and b) I could save a few quid and C) I'm a sadist!
I asked questions on here before I committed to doing it and had a look at some YT videos. The YT videos I found were useless (apart from one really good tip for getting the discs off the hub).
The only way I could get the rear piston to retract enough to get the caliper back on the new (thicker) disc with the much meatier pads was to remove the Ebrake motor and wind the spline all the way out, then compress the piston with a clamp (it was really stiff).
So, I got the calliper back on, stuck the handbrake motor back on, did everything back up. There was a bit of play in the caliper as the piston was pushed fully back. This was sorted by pumping the brake pedal, happy days.
I haven't tried the handbrake yet.
My concern is; as I manually wound the Ebrake actuator back to compress the piston but the motor is in the same position as it was when I removed it, should the Ebrake compensate? IE does it (they) have some kind of pressure sensor to stop the motor when the piston is gripping the disc?
I'm worried about activating the Ebrake until I am confident it will be OK.
BTW I saw a post on here where someone reckoned 35-40 minutes per corner for disc and pad change. I spent 7 hours on it yesterday and have done one front and one rear so far!!
So I thought I would change the discs and pads on my car because a). I haven't got much else to do at present and b) I could save a few quid and C) I'm a sadist!
I asked questions on here before I committed to doing it and had a look at some YT videos. The YT videos I found were useless (apart from one really good tip for getting the discs off the hub).
The only way I could get the rear piston to retract enough to get the caliper back on the new (thicker) disc with the much meatier pads was to remove the Ebrake motor and wind the spline all the way out, then compress the piston with a clamp (it was really stiff).
So, I got the calliper back on, stuck the handbrake motor back on, did everything back up. There was a bit of play in the caliper as the piston was pushed fully back. This was sorted by pumping the brake pedal, happy days.
I haven't tried the handbrake yet.
My concern is; as I manually wound the Ebrake actuator back to compress the piston but the motor is in the same position as it was when I removed it, should the Ebrake compensate? IE does it (they) have some kind of pressure sensor to stop the motor when the piston is gripping the disc?
I'm worried about activating the Ebrake until I am confident it will be OK.
BTW I saw a post on here where someone reckoned 35-40 minutes per corner for disc and pad change. I spent 7 hours on it yesterday and have done one front and one rear so far!!
