CarPlay/AA MMI box with MOST connection

[birdy_z4]

Great thread, post and vids as always Dave, I installed the previous aux which, I am quite happy with, is it worth changing to the most box

If it works fine and you're happy with it then don't change it. I only changed mine mainly for the channel content and curious to see if it would make a difference. If someone was in the position to buy one from scratch then yes defo go for this one

Dave do you have the codes to enable the cd changer please?

Looking online I can only find a ccc install which was to add $672 and update module not listed on the z4

Thanks

Carl

 

[AnubisZed]

Dave do you have the codes to enable the cd changer please?

Looking online I can only find a ccc install which was to add $672 and update module not listed on the z4

Thanks

Carl

All shown in my video, I've posted the link at the top of page 4 of this thread

 

[birdy_z4]

Dave do you have the codes to enable the cd changer please?

Looking online I can only find a ccc install which was to add $672 and update module not listed on the z4

Thanks Dave, I stopped before the end bad mistake lol.

So if you have not got a CD changer do you not need to add $672 into FA in CAS and NFRM?

Carl

Thanks

Carl

All shown in my video, I've posted the link at the top of page 4 of this thread

 

[AnubisZed]

Dave do you have the codes to enable the cd changer please?

Looking online I can only find a ccc install which was to add $672 and update module not listed on the z4



Thanks

Carl

All shown in my video, I've posted the link at the top of page 4 of this thread

Thanks Dave, I stopped before the end bad mistake lol.

So if you have not got a CD changer do you not need to add $672 into FA in CAS and NFRM?

Carl

If you've got a CD Changer then you are good to go. You only need to code if you don't have a physical one (code 672) or the prep (code 694).

 

[birdy_z4]

All shown in my video, I've posted the link at the top of page 4 of this thread

Thanks Dave, I stopped before the end bad mistake lol.

So if you have not got a CD changer do you not need to add $672 into FA in CAS and NFRM?

Carl

If you've got a CD Changer then you are good to go. You only need to code if you don't have a physical one (code 672) or the prep (code 694).

Presume this is in cas, nfrm ? Any others modules

Some sites say to delete the 694 if it is there what’s your opinion

 

[birdy_z4]

Updating vo on cas and nfrm with $672 only plus the coding of cdm to mp3 as per Dave’s video and this feed worked like a treat

 

[Snowii]

Just an other update from my side.
Received a complete new replacement unit this week.
After installing it (including new wiring etc.) I am experiencing the exact same issue as with previous box; glitching of the oem menu ‘s on the display after using the mr12volt box.
Video of box itself/carplay etc. remain ok.
The glitching gets worse the longer the box is in use up to a point the display does not show any oem menu display at all anymore (completely black or alternating black/red display)….frustrating.

As said, if I leave the box in operation the video remains ok and glitch-free. Issue only arrises after using the box and switching back to the oem system using the menu button.

Anyone else have installed a comparable box in comparable setup and experience no issues?

Last update on this topic from my side and unfortunately not a positive one.
After some communication back and forth with mr12volt I decided to return the replacement box and ask for a refund.
There seems to be no solution for the glitching I was experiencing.
According to mr12volt it has probably something to do with the age of my car and they think “many funny things can happen over time” … :|
They told me that after 9 months of selling the box there where 5-7 reports of the same issue.
Anyways, the carplay functionality and super audio with lots of bass was not worth it for me due to the trade of i.e. constant glitching oem displays.

Btw great video Dave!

guys, unfortunately I have to report experiencing the same glitching issues with the mr12volt blue DSP box. After having a first longer ride with it, when reaching the destination and reversing, when PDC showed up, the screen was glitching as crazy.

I recorded it and sent it to mr12volt right away and waiting for a response at the moment but given what Wolter has posted, I am guessing the outlook is not great I am wondering whether the same issue has been recorded with the nonDSP box as well?

Another solution might be changing of the original MOST cabling for a new one, but question is whether that would help with the issue and if that is too much of an investment. I would miss this functionality greatly so still trying to find a solution to this...

 

[AnubisZed]

guys, unfortunately I have to report experiencing the same glitching issues with the mr12volt blue DSP box. After having a first longer ride with it, when reaching the destination and reversing, when PDC showed up, the screen was glitching as crazy.

I recorded it and sent it to mr12volt right away and waiting for a response at the moment but given what Wolter has posted, I am guessing the outlook is not great I am wondering whether the same issue has been recorded with the nonDSP box as well?

Another solution might be changing of the original MOST cabling for a new one, but question is whether that would help with the issue and if that is too much of an investment. I would miss this functionality greatly so still trying to find a solution to this...

This glitching you've reported, is it only on the PDC screen? Because if it is then it's possibly the power supply to your camera. I had the same issue but solved it by installing one of these....
https://amzn.eu/d/aLzFUdS

It smooths out the 12v and in turn steadies the image

 

[Snowii]

I don`t have a camera (maybe I have mistaken PDC just for the sensors?) and anyway it was glitching also in the radio mode...

but still your tweak might potentially work no? ie. using it for the mr12volt unit itself?

friend of mine with a 5er and an aux CC box told me he had the same glitching issue and the cables were the culprit, he gave them proper check and made sure all the connectioncs were solid and the issue went away so there is still hope.

 

[AnubisZed]

I don`t have a camera (maybe I have mistaken PDC just for the sensors?) and anyway it was glitching also in the radio mode...

but still your tweak might potentially work no? ie. using it for the mr12volt unit itself?

friend of mine with a 5er and an aux CC box told me he had the same glitching issue and the cables were the culprit, he gave them proper check and made sure all the connectioncs were solid and the issue went away so there is still hope.

Arrr right, no camera, ok sorry thought thats was the issue. Forget that box then as its for cameras.

Yes changing the LVDS may solve it, but that's no guarantee unfortunately.

 

[Chippie]

Thinking of fitting one of these so I’ve been doing a bit of research on the mr12volt unit and apparently you can change the boot logo at startup to BMW
1. Go to the Settings -> System -> Factory Mode
2. Click on Advanced Setting
3. This will bring up a password prompt. Enter “688612” and press OK
4. Click on Boot Logo
5. Scroll through until you see the BMW emblem. Click on it. This will save the settings.

 

[B21]

Thinking of fitting one of these so I’ve been doing a bit of research on the mr12volt unit and apparently you can change the boot logo at startup to BMW
1. Go to the Settings -> System -> Factory Mode
2. Click on Advanced Setting
3. This will bring up a password prompt. Enter “688612” and press OK
4. Click on Boot Logo
5. Scroll through until you see the BMW emblem. Click on it. This will save the settings.

Was that stopping you from buying one? :tumbleweed: :rofl:

 

[Chippie]

Thinking of fitting one of these so I’ve been doing a bit of research on the mr12volt unit and apparently you can change the boot logo at startup to BMW
1. Go to the Settings -> System -> Factory Mode
2. Click on Advanced Setting
3. This will bring up a password prompt. Enter “688612” and press OK
4. Click on Boot Logo
5. Scroll through until you see the BMW emblem. Click on it. This will save the settings.

Was that stopping you from buying one? :tumbleweed: :rofl:

No not at all , just thought it may be useful, there are gold fish with better memories than me so thought I’d better get it in writing before, before, before oh what ever.
Have you got yours fitted and working yet?

 

[AnubisZed]

Thinking of fitting one of these so I’ve been doing a bit of research on the mr12volt unit and apparently you can change the boot logo at startup to BMW
1. Go to the Settings -> System -> Factory Mode
2. Click on Advanced Setting
3. This will bring up a password prompt. Enter “688612” and press OK
4. Click on Boot Logo
5. Scroll through until you see the BMW emblem. Click on it. This will save the settings.

Excellent, I wasn't aware of this, but to be honest I only see the boot logo about 1 in 50 times of starting my car, this is the same as the other mmi boxes you can actually place anything there (with the correct size and file type), but again you very rarely see it

 

[B21]

Thinking of fitting one of these so I’ve been doing a bit of research on the mr12volt unit and apparently you can change the boot logo at startup to BMW
1. Go to the Settings -> System -> Factory Mode
2. Click on Advanced Setting
3. This will bring up a password prompt. Enter “688612” and press OK
4. Click on Boot Logo
5. Scroll through until you see the BMW emblem. Click on it. This will save the settings.

Was that stopping you from buying one? :tumbleweed: :rofl:

No not at all , just thought it may be useful, there are gold fish with better memories than me so thought I’d better get it in writing before, before, before oh what ever.
Have you got yours fitted and working yet?

Hi Chippie, I'm ready to start anytime now..other repair jobs for other ICE devices keep being wheeled into my garage for overhaui / service so I keep getting delayed....soon though

 

[AnubisZed]

For B21

 

[B21]

Thanks

I think I’ll go for a floating connector with a bit more wire but yours does look neat.

I’m stripping out the media snap in iPhone adapter…since that terminates I assume in a USB connection (albeit with a bmw proprietary connector) was wondering about salvaging that connector to give a second USB connection in addition to the one already in the armrest?

As an aside still not got artwork back on the media snap in connector but still have artwork if I plug the phone into the standard USB connection in the armrest..

As another aside ..I’m a recent convert to YouTube streaming music …(their music channel)…

In my Volvo, Mini and Z4 the stability of the connection seems variable…music streams always but meta data both text and artwork seems to ‘fall off’ after a few tracks ..I end up with text that just says YouTube Music..ie no track by track metadata or artwork..you can reset it by a restart..

Hopefully wired CarPlay will improve on that glitchiness?

 

[geez4]

Trying to bump this. I have a 'new' 2009 Z4 35i. I have just sent this around to a few auto elecs to see if anyone wants to install. I have a few questions I have not found the answer to:
1. From the Mr12V website:

Does Not support the integration of OEM microphones, however both BMW and Mr12volt Bluetooth can be connected at the same time. BMW will handle as HF and Mr12volt as HF/Media (as a result, BMW HF will take over Mr12volt when a call is received).

So I take it you can wire up up so that the Mr12volt HF can take control and not the BMW? If I am in Android auto I will want to make calls from that.

2. Is this easy to install so I can get back to the box to install upgrades / change codes?

3. When you install a rear camera, is there anything specific you have to do to get the stock sensors and new rear camera to work side by side. Looking at the video Dave (legend) made, this is more so an option in the settings? (or am I confused with the old android screen he had??)

4. If I wanted to connect an ODB2 connector, would I have to get a WiFi one or would a bluetooth one work? Thought it would be cool to have all the car stuff handy in android and I might play around with a few screens for when I take this to the track or out cruising.

Sorry if this is stuff that has been discussed. I feel like I have been through every thread even the bloody M3 one.

 

[Chippie]

So I take it you can wire up up so that the Mr12volt HF can take control and not the BMW? If I am in Android auto I will want to make calls from that.

Sorry I can’t be more specific but there’s a bit of coding to alter so that when you press the voice command on the steering wheel then Mr12volt will work and not the BMW one

2. Is this easy to install so I can get back to the box to install upgrades / change codes?

This depends where you mount it as to how much trim you have to remove, mines in the passenger footwell between the transmission tunnel and lower heater vents, I only have to remove the trim below the glovebox, the USB cable needs to be routed into the glovebox so you can do some update’s from that, although officially you are supposed to remove the power cable from the mr12volt box, but I’ve read it can be done by rebooting from the idrive knob.

3. When you install a rear camera, is there anything specific you have to do to get the stock sensors and new rear camera to work side by side. Looking at the video Dave (legend) made, this is more so an option in the settings? (or am I confused with the old android screen he had??)

Yes you are correct just adjust settings

4. If I wanted to connect an ODB2 connector, would I have to get a WiFi one or would a bluetooth one work? Thought it would be cool to have all the car stuff handy in android and I might play around with a few screens for when I take this to the track or out cruising.

Can’t help but I don’t see why either wouldn’t work

 

[geez4]

Legend thanks for the reply.

I think with the ODB2 I did see some complaints that perhaps you couldnt have multiple bluetooth devices going at once, but you could use WiFi. I will have to have a bit more of a look into it.

If removing the power is to power cycle I might just install it somewhere with a switch to do just that. Always nice to be able to turn things off and on! Noted re the USB cable.

With the coding, this is using Bimmercode or similar? It is the car I am messing with?