Boot Water Ingress - The journey of roof motors, hydro pump and seals

[Webless]

ah yes that makes sense, the jack I now have is kinda handy - this was the final driver for actually getting one, does mean from time to time I can take the wheels off and clean them properly and of course if any alloy repairs needed etc.

the video I watched was fitted with 19in (i think) wheels and I could had got away with it, just too tight with my socket set and 21's

Updates to follow )

 

[enuff_zed]

ah yes that makes sense, the jack I now have is kinda handy - this was the final driver for actually getting one, does mean from time to time I can take the wheels off and clean them properly and of course if any alloy repairs needed etc.

the video I watched was fitted with 19in (i think) wheels and I could had got away with it, just too tight with my socket set and 21's

Updates to follow )

A few years back I bought a Halfords Professional 1/4 drive socket set just for tighter access jobs like this.
It has to be the most used thing in my toolkit now.

 

[Webless]

Dodging the showers today but both bolts now removed. It would have been fine just to jack the car up a bit and not actually remove the wheel but in my case it was still proving tricky. Took a picture best I could, here you can see the washer is caught - kinda explains why I was having no joy on Friday

Spot of lunch then if the rain stops the bumper is finally coming off

 

[warmasice]

Thanks for following up. Yesterday I replaced the rear light gaskets. I was surprised at just how much crap had built up. Also has to modify the gasket a little as the new gaskets have screw down points but my lights doesn’t have that option, had to cut a bit away to get a tight fit. I will load up some pictures to show those on the forum what to look out for.

I’m watching the weather today to decide if today there will be enough break between showers to have a go at the vents Will keep you posted

I know exactly what you mean. Same part number, revised design. Just like the rear lamps.

For anyone else reading this, notice how there are extra screw tabs. The central one at the bottom of the pic may need filing down to ensure a perfect fit - depending on your tail lamp design:



As for the bumper, my car is lowered and on spacers, so was easier to remove the wheel to access the bolts.

In the video you mention (I think I know the one you mean), the chap forgets to mention one or two bolts which do need removing. Someone in the YouTube comments section spotted it too.

Good luck with it all. It's well worth changing the seals and vents. Would recommend changing the salmon relays too.

 

[Webless]

Haa yes thats it, I was expecting (given I had specified the year) that the part would be compatible but as you say it needs a mod. I didnt have a file so I went for the cut-it-of method

All done and some pictures to follow...

 

[Webless]

So I have replaced a lot of weather strips/pieces incl the rear light gaskets. You can see here the amount of muck these things collect...

 

[Webless]

I also noticed part of the seal on the off-side light was hanging out ... and the plastic catch has snapped. I will keep an eye on things before ordering replacement lights. Seems like the initial design was flawed..

 

[Webless]

Here (as with the much better photo above in this thread) you can see the new gasket has screw down areas but the light fitting doesnt (my Zed is a 2010).

 

[Webless]

The only real issue was the middle screw fixing, it forced the gasket to have a gap so two choices, either file down of cut off. I dont own a file so off it comes...See here the gap...

 

[Webless]

Post surgery...

 

[Webless]

That's better...

 

[Webless]

Cleaned everything up, this is the before shot ...

Notice one of the fixing holes is taped up, on the 2010 light unit there is no fixing here to this needs to be sealed..

 

[Webless]

When removing and replacing the rear light just take note there are two ball joint type fixings so when removing pull these away carefully, dont pull off at an angle as you will break them off...

 

[Webless]

Gently pull the gasket covers through, spend the extra time to make sure everywhere is sealed ok... then bolt the light unit back and and done

 

[enuff_zed]

Gently pull the gasket covers through, spend the extra time to make sure everywhere is sealed ok... then bolt the light unit back and and done

This is all really good, helpful advice with plenty of pictures to explain it all.
Thank you for taking the time to do this.

One little request.................. would it be possible for you to edit the thread title a little so in future others can more easily find help on the rear light seals?

 

[Webless]

Then onto the rear vents, underneath the rear arch covers there is (in my case) one 8mm bolt which needs to be removed. You can see here where the bolt hole is...

 

[Webless]

If you look underneath you will also see a 10mm bolt next to this, which doesnt need to be removed...

 

[Webless]

Here you can see the issue I had on both sides, it was caught under some plastic housing....

 

[Webless]

With the bumper removed you can see the black housing here. This had to be removed to access the vents, held on with four bolts. Bumper is sitting on a cardboard box to help raise off the ground, so I didnt need to unplug the parking sensors and lights..

 

[Webless]

Finally...can get my hands on the old vents...