Blocked passenger side drain

[SonnyA85]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00Q02MHJO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_0C56N5ZD4KCB6Y3H936T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Going to order this. I will try climbing into the boot with a torch and see if I can see anything through the hole where the roof motor is but it's very tight might need to get the wife to do it.

 

[DMike]

Long answer and picture heavy, apologise…

Took some photos and while there, measured the upper drain holes - they are actually bigger than previously reported, could easily fit a 11 mm probe in them. The hose beneath the drain hole felt rubbery and ribbed to the probe, so would definitely avoid any sharp objects.

First, how to visualise the drain holes. I have the roof motor relocation done and the left one can be inspected with minimal effort:




And the right one is the same:


My weapon of choice keeping the wells clean from debris, a 13 mm silicone hose attached to a vacuum cleaner:


Would the well would be filled with water (never had that), I’d probably just shove a 10mm pin/probe or fluid extractor hose straight down the area marked on the first photo and poke the drain hole area free. If the roof motor hasn’t been relocated it’s a different story. The motor casing obscures the drain hole area and pressure air from above or via the lower drain exit might do the job.

 

[SonnyA85]

Thanks for taking the time and the pics. I think my gaps are a lot smaller I have already been peaking but without a torch. Or the gaps just look bigger in pictures because of the lens.

I don't really have a proper torch tbh. I probably should but never really needed one.

That's how I know they are full of water. I look in the gap and I see shiny dirty fluid sloshing about. Shiny because of the sunlight bouncing off it.

I'll have a go with a mini torch I have and the silicone hose I ordered is a lot smaller than yours. I'll need to Jerry rig it to the wet vac.

I fear though it might be a roof off job if I can't get all the debris out.

The water has been coming in behind the passenger seat and caused some mould. At least I know for sure now what the issue is. Hopefully get this fixed tomorrow and on Sunday full internal valet is in order.

 

[SonnyA85]

I had a good poke with a bottle cleaner from the top and all I'm doing is mixing the water around.

No access from the boot seems like it was all shored up when the motor was relocated.

I reckon the only way to be sure it gets done properly is roof off. I'll wait for the silicone pipe to arrive and suck what I can out and have another poke but I'm confident it will be a roof off job.

Need to order a decent torch. Will give AliExpress special a go.

 

[enuff_zed]

No access from the boot seems like it was all shored up when the motor was relocated.

I assume this 'shoring up' is something you've discovered after removing the parcel shelf and the left support?
If not then you need to do that first, then you should be able to reach practically to the bottom of the well (assuming you're not a BUFF )

 

[DMike]

I reckon the only way to be sure it gets done properly is roof off. I'll wait for the silicone pipe to arrive and suck what I can out and have another poke but I'm confident it will be a roof off job.

A 40£ fluid/oil extractor would suck the water and most crud in seconds and you could flush the wells clean. As a bonus you could start doing your oil changes yourself . I have one and it would probably be more convenient to pop at my place than take the roof off. Live in the outskirts of Helsinki :evil:

 

[MikeyH]

Not Mr Whippy! :headbang: :rofl:

 

[Smartbear]

I never had a problem using net curtain wire to clean my e85 drains, as soon as you poke it through far enough to reach into the top chamber any obstruction’s going to be dislodged.
There’s no way I’d be removing the roof to do this.
Rob

 

[SonnyA85]

I never had a problem using net curtain wire to clean my e85 drains, as soon as you poke it through far enough to reach into the top chamber any obstruction’s going to be dislodged.
There’s no way I’d be removing the roof to do this.
Rob

Net curtain wire sounds too flimsy.

However you have given me a better idea since my bottle brushes clearly weren't long enough and the ones that were were too thick and too flexible causing it to get stuck as it wouldn't straighten back out. I'm going to get one of those snaking tools electricians use from Screwfix for passing wires through walls, etc.

They can be extended so once I have one in I can screw another onto the end and then push further

 

[SonnyA85]

No access from the boot seems like it was all shored up when the motor was relocated.

I assume this 'shoring up' is something you've discovered after removing the parcel shelf and the left support?
If not then you need to do that first, then you should be able to reach practically to the bottom of the well (assuming you're not a BUFF )

The mechanic has used bubble wrap and couple of other things to secure the roof motor in place. I removed all the bubble wrap. Couldn't see any real gap behind without needing to remove whatever else was behind so I decided to just put the bubble wrap back.

I think going from the bottom is obviously the easiest way obviously 15 inches isn't long enough. Need about a metre. Yet has to be flexible to get enough bend to get in their at an angle but then also not too flexible that it cannot straighten back out when inside.

 

[SonnyA85]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08ZJKP8V7/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_KKPE06RB93S5KKFS3W5Y


Ordered this. 33 cm sections and 3.3m total length.

Should only need 2-4 sections. Once it's cleared I can hopefully when the torch arrives poke the holes from the top downwards that way I don't need to jack the car and remove the wheel and cover in future.

One of the bolts cracked and fell apart probably never been removed in 20 years. Managed to get it back on but it's not going to take a lot of abuse in future. Had to use a rubber mallet to get my socket onto it as it was caked in crud.

 

[MikeyH]

It might be a daft idea to the more knowledgeable on here but why can’t something be pushed down through the hole from the top to clear out all the crap? Would safe the hassle of removing the wheel etc.

 

[Smartbear]

It might be a daft idea to the more knowledgeable on here but why can’t something be pushed down through the hole from the top to clear out all the crap? Would safe the hassle of removing the wheel etc.

Because if your roof motor hasn’t been relocated to the boot it’s going to be sitting directly over the drain hole stopping any access from above.
Rob

 

[DMike]

It might be a daft idea to the more knowledgeable on here but why can’t something be pushed down through the hole from the top to clear out all the crap? Would safe the hassle of removing the wheel etc.

Thought of doing that as well. Looking at images of the drain hose (41117053466), halfway there is a joint that could take damage or disconnect if probed forcefully. Never had the rear quarter panels off, but TIS says about replacing them:
”The water drain hoses for the slide/tilt sunroof are partially permanently integrated in the body and cannot be replaced individually. These water drain hoses can only be completely replaced with extensive body repair work (e. g. after an accident).”

 

[SonnyA85]

It might be a daft idea to the more knowledgeable on here but why can’t something be pushed down through the hole from the top to clear out all the crap? Would safe the hassle of removing the wheel etc.

How do you propose I find the hole? When there is a puddle of mud above it? I tried and all i was doing was mixing the muddy water and swirling it around and spraying it upwards.

There's literally litres of water in the way and then all the crap in there too.

Imagine a swimming pool full of mud how would you find the plug/drainage hole? I poked around but it was literally a pointless exercise especially since it's literally trying to find a needle in a haystack. Plus there is so much in the way. Not as if there is lots of space to work with its a tiny gap you are looking through that's about a cm wide and the drainage hole isn't directly underneath.

 

[enuff_zed]

No access from the boot seems like it was all shored up when the motor was relocated.

I assume this 'shoring up' is something you've discovered after removing the parcel shelf and the left support?
If not then you need to do that first, then you should be able to reach practically to the bottom of the well (assuming you're not a BUFF )

The mechanic has used bubble wrap and couple of other things to secure the roof motor in place. I removed all the bubble wrap. Couldn't see any real gap behind without needing to remove whatever else was behind so I decided to just put the bubble wrap back.

I think going from the bottom is obviously the easiest way obviously 15 inches isn't long enough. Need about a metre. Yet has to be flexible to get enough bend to get in their at an angle but then also not too flexible that it cannot straighten back out when inside.

No, that is just padding for the motor's new location in the boot.
To get to the original location of it you need to remove the parcel shelf and the left side support, then you can see the original location of the motor way up near the front. You can just about reach it at arms length.
Tbh, it sounds like you're a little lost if you expected to find the access point in the boot behind the motor.
Possibly time to splash the cash and go see an expert?

 

[John M. Alan]

I use the wet and dry shop vac on the exit drain. You can pop off the rubber nozzle if you need more. This is all part of Spring Cleaning or any time you change over to snow tires.

 

[SonnyA85]

I assume this 'shoring up' is something you've discovered after removing the parcel shelf and the left support?
If not then you need to do that first, then you should be able to reach practically to the bottom of the well (assuming you're not a BUFF )

The mechanic has used bubble wrap and couple of other things to secure the roof motor in place. I removed all the bubble wrap. Couldn't see any real gap behind without needing to remove whatever else was behind so I decided to just put the bubble wrap back.

I think going from the bottom is obviously the easiest way obviously 15 inches isn't long enough. Need about a metre. Yet has to be flexible to get enough bend to get in their at an angle but then also not too flexible that it cannot straighten back out when inside.

No, that is just padding for the motor's new location in the boot.
To get to the original location of it you need to remove the parcel shelf and the left side support, then you can see the original location of the motor way up near the front. You can just about reach it at arms length.
Tbh, it sounds like you're a little lost if you expected to find the access point in the boot behind the motor.
Possibly time to splash the cash and go see an expert?

My mechanic isn't going to be coming until the parts arrive for the wife's motor and I could get him to have a look. But I reckon the sparks tool I bought off Amazon should do the trick from the bottom.

Plus it gives me an excuse to use the brand new jack, axles and wheel chocks I bought again.

Plus I need to swap the wheels over and get the new tyres fitted. Kill 2 birds with 1 stone tomorrow.

If this second attempt doesn't work then it's use silicone pipe and wet vac. To see if I can get access from the top but impossible currently with the pool of water blocking all view of where the hole could be.

My mechanic is just a general mechanic though not clued up on Z4 specifically so I'm better off doing the obscure things myself.

 

[SonnyA85]

Amazon failed to deliver same day as promised. So won't be until next weekend now until I get a crack at this using the tool. The silicone pipe arrived. But I need to Jerry rig it to the vac. May be more hassle than it's worth if I can prod from underneath next week.

Hopefully it doesn't rain too much over the next 7 days.

 

[MikeyH]

Lucky you’re not in sunny Devon mate, it’s pi**ing down here now.